Contacts
home/ Ventilation

Ruberoid between the foundation and the log house. Waterproofing the foundation inside the house

The foundation is the basis of the entire building, whatever its size, the foundation will be simply necessary. When building a house, you need to take care not only of building the foundation, but also of protecting it. It is imperative to lay waterproofing between the foundation and the log house in order to protect the house from water, which threatens it with the formation of mold, mildew, high levels of humidity, dampness, and so on.

Types of waterproofing

There are two types of foundation waterproofing:

  1. Anti-filtration.
  2. Anti-corrosion.

The second is used in most cases, the first is not always used, only when the moisture is too “aggressive” (when substances that have a bad effect on the foundation are dissolved in the water). There are painting, pasting, impregnating, backfilling and plastering types of anti-corrosion insulation. The difference between these types lies in the materials used, and the use is made taking into account the assigned tasks.

Waterproofing is carried out in two planes at once - it is necessary to provide protection from the ground, both under the foundation and along its walls. These manipulations will prevent moisture from penetrating into the foundation. Horizontal waterproofing is carried out using a plaster composition, which is based on cement-polymer mastic, cement-sand mortar or emulsion paste. In addition, a layer of polyethylene can be laid between the soil and the base. Vertical insulation is carried out using impregnating, plastering and painting materials.

In the case of a block base, work will need to be done to seal holes in the blocks and level out roughness.

If you want the house to stand for a very long time, then using waterproofing between the log house and the foundation is simply necessary.

Return to contents

Why is waterproofing necessary?

Waterproofing between the log house and the foundation is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the basement; it helps prevent the foundation from absorbing moisture. Moisture is formed for several reasons, in particular runoff (melt snow, rain) and groundwater (underground).

If you do not seal the base, water may enter the basement, which threatens the formation of mold, dampness, and in the worst case, possible destruction, which can lead to shrinkage of the house, to the appearance and its eventual destruction.

Waterproofing laid between the foundation and walls and between the foundation and the ground will help ensure long service life and dryness in the basement.

Return to contents

Materials used for foundation waterproofing

Waterproofing work involves the use of certain materials suitable for providing insulation between the foundation and its adjacent objects. Waterproofing involves the use of roll material and bitumen mastic:

  1. Coating type of waterproofing (insulation with bitumen mastic).
  2. Pasted type of waterproofing (roll insulation).

Removing moisture by using bitumen mastic is the most budget option among all types of waterproofing. The properties of bitumen mastic guarantee the reliability and elasticity of the coating. Using mastic, you can seal the pores and cracks that exist in concrete by creating a durable and moisture-resistant film.

When choosing bitumen mastic for work, you need to opt for an option with high heat resistance, which will not be affected by temperature changes. It is important to know that many bitumen mastics lose their elasticity already at a temperature of -5°C; it is possible that the mastic will even begin to crack if the soil temperature drops below 15°C.

The temperature limit is very important; you need to take into account that the mastic is resistant to temperatures above 60°C, so that the mastic does not slide off when exposed to high heat. Thus, when purchasing mastic, pay Special attention on its temperature and thermal stability in order to extend the service life of the material used.

In cases where the area where the construction occurs has a low level groundwater, it has a drainage system and there is no likelihood of flooding, then this option waterproofing using bitumen mastic is just right and will be sufficient. But when more is required reliable look waterproofing between the foundation and the ground, it would be advisable to apply roll insulation directly on top of the mastic.

The roll waterproofing method involves the use of rolled material, such as glass insulation or roofing felt. This type of waterproofing is considered the most reliable, it provides highest degree foundation protection.

Roofing felt is a practical and profitable product; it is slightly inferior in quality to glass insulation, which is not only more expensive, but also more reliable than roofing felt, which provides a longer period of protection.

Return to contents

The process of foundation waterproofing

Carrying out the waterproofing process with your own hands is not particularly difficult. It is important to take care of properly organized preparatory work, before waterproofing. Need to prepare working space, for this it will be necessary to ensure a distance between the ground and the foundation of approximately m, which will ensure the ability to work without restrictions on movements and difficulties in accessing the foundation along its entire height, starting from the base.

To begin with, we inspect the foundation and if we find any irregularities or depressions, we carry out work to seal them. This applies to strip foundations. If the foundation is concrete, then you will need to seal the joints between the blocks. All work is carried out using cement.

When these works are completely completed, you can begin to use bitumen mastic on the outside of the foundation. It must be applied in two layers, lubricating all areas with gentle movements. Application is done using a wide brush with stiff bristles. It is important to pay attention to the application method: the first layer is applied with movements in a horizontal direction, and the second (after the first has completely dried) with vertical movements.

Waterproofing using roll material is known and widespread in two various types– horizontal and vertical. Each of these types involves applying material along the outside in a certain direction. That is, vertical insulation is applied vertically, horizontal insulation is applied horizontally. Both types of gluing take place; it is impossible to say which is better and which is not. Each of them is selected for a specific foundation, focusing on the terrain and soil.

Horizontal waterproofing is more reliable, but vertical waterproofing is much easier to apply. Rolled waterproofing must be applied to an already applied layer of mastic. When using waterproofing, it is necessary to heat its lower part with a burner, gradually unroll the roll and apply it to the foundation. At the end of application, you need to warm up all the resulting joints and treat them with mastic to ensure reliable protection.

In cases where waterproofing is carried out in winter (which, of course, is best avoided), it is important to first clear the foundation of snow and frost. Next, the surface warms up and only after such preparation the waterproofing procedure begins.

Only after a correctly carried out procedure can you proceed to installing the log house on top of the foundation. Two layers of roofing material are laid between the log house and the foundation. And between the logs it is necessary to place wet moss (the so-called bear insulation).

It is important to carry out all work carefully and carefully so that the structure lasts a long time. If you don't have confidence in your abilities, then it's better this work entrust to specialists.

Moisture has a detrimental effect on the condition of the bathhouse foundation and can cause the destruction of the building. We suggest you familiarize yourself with ways to protect a structure from moisture, which is called waterproofing.

The need to waterproof the foundation of a bathhouse


The base of the bathhouse must be protected under the following conditions:
  • Groundwater is located closer than 1 m from the foundation. If the level groundwater above the foundation, it is necessary to equip a drainage channel.
  • If the bathhouse is built on clay or loamy soils that do not drain water well. They accumulate moisture, which accumulates around the foundation of the bathhouse.
  • If groundwater contains a large number of aggressive substances, such as alkalis.

Vertical and horizontal waterproofing of the bathhouse foundation


Waterproofing the foundation for a bathhouse begins immediately after making the foundation pit, with the installation of a drainage layer. Place a 20 cm layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench or pit, compact everything thoroughly. The cushion prevents water from stagnating under the foundation, and the sand prevents capillary rise of water.

Build a foundation formwork on the pad and fill it with concrete. After the foundation has hardened, protect it from moisture with vertical and horizontal waterproofing. There is no point in figuring out which option is better - both methods are used simultaneously.

Vertical waterproofing is applied from the outside onto the vertical surfaces of the bathhouse foundation. It should protect the foundation from subsoil moisture and precipitation. Ideal option It is considered to cover the vertical insulation of the entire wall, from top to bottom. The minimum coverage area of ​​the foundation is from the lower level of soil wetting from precipitation to the upper level of rain splashes on the base.

Horizontal waterproofing is applied to the foundation from above and protects it from liquids that can penetrate through the walls and floor. It is a continuous carpet under the walls of the bathhouse. If the bathhouse has a basement, waterproofing is done in two places - under the basement floor slabs and between the slab and the wall.

Provide drainage at the junctions of vertical and horizontal waterproofing. It is made from bitumen mastic or geotextile. Bitumen has the best insulating properties, but when heated it smells bad and requires certain precautions when working with the substance. If the bathhouse is located near a pond, after making the foundation, fill the gaps between the wall and the ground with greasy clay, which serves as additional protection for the structure.

In some cases, the base of the bathhouse can be waterproofed in only one way. For example, if the groundwater is deep, use only horizontal waterproofing of the bathhouse foundation.

Waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse using a painting method

The painting method involves applying a water-repellent impregnation - emulsions, special solutions - to the surface of the foundation. Penetrating insulation initially covers the surface with a layer of up to 3 mm. The active chemical elements included in the protective agent are absorbed into the concrete by 6 cm and give the wall water-repellent properties. This method is more effective than pasting, but much more expensive.

Mastics and resins for waterproofing the base of a bathhouse


Coating mixtures are made on a bitumen basis or using synthetic polymer resin and are elastic.

When using mastic or resin, consider the following information:

  1. It is not recommended to carry out work on waterproofing the foundation for a bathhouse in wet weather; the mastic will not be able to absorb properly into the concrete.
  2. First, treat the wall with an antiseptic and a primer - a primer that increases the adhesion of the coating material to the wall. The primer must match the composition of the mastic.
  3. Coating the surface with bitumen mastic is considered the most economical waterproofing option.
  4. Apply mastic to the surface manually or mechanically (by spraying). After surface treatment, a seamless coating is obtained.
  5. The mastic adheres well to the surface of the foundation.
  6. The thickness of the coating layer is 3 mm.
  7. Polymer mastics compare favorably with bitumen mastics by reducing the requirements for the treated surface. You can coat a wall with this composition if its humidity does not exceed 8%.
  8. To determine whether the foundation is ready for waterproofing, cover it with mastic. plastic film 1 m2 of wall and leave for a day. If the film remains dry, the foundation can be processed.
  9. Waterproofing with mastic is unreliable and is easily damaged, for example, by stones when backfilling or when soil shifts. Therefore, protect it from above with geotextiles or insulation. A more expensive option for protecting mastic is the use of a brick pressure wall.
  10. To waterproof the foundation of a bathhouse, bitumen-latex emulsion mastic of the BLEM-20 brand is often used together with SEPTOVTL impregnation.

Plaster for waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse


The plastering option involves applying several layers of plaster-cement mixture with special additives to the surface with a thickness of 20-25 mm. In cross-section, the coating resembles a pie, which contains layers of mineral solutions with the addition of high-quality cement, asphalt mastic, PVC compounds, and hydrophobic grades of concrete.

Apply the mixture when heated to prevent cracking. Additives improve the quality of cement mortar: they reduce the porosity of the foundation, increase the viscosity of the solution, and penetrate deeply into the pores and crevices of the foundation. The plaster version is intended for horizontal waterproofing.

Waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse using the pasting method

The pasting method involves the use of waterproofing sheets. Traditional waterproofing material is roofing felt, modern rolled materials are Krembit, Aquazol, isoelast, membranes. At the joints, the fabrics are overlapped to avoid water penetration.

Ruberoid for waterproofing the base of a bathhouse


Waterproofing with roofing felt is considered the most popular way to protect the foundation of a bathhouse.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

  • Clean the surface from dirt and let dry.
  • Remove protrusions, fill potholes, chips and other defects with cement mortar. A smooth surface will ensure strong adhesion of the roofing material to the surface.
  • Apply a layer of liquid bitumen or hot mastic to the surface.
  • Warm up a sheet of roofing material and place it on hot mastic.
  • Lay the next sheet with an overlap of 10-12 cm.
  • Coat the joints and edges of the sheets with additional mastic.
  • Repeat the operation and cover the entire surface with sheets of roofing felt.
  • To improve the quality of insulation and increase service life, it is recommended to lay roofing felt in two layers. Apply liquid roofing felt to the surface of the first layer and repeat the operation of laying the material.
  • To make horizontal waterproofing, lay roofing material in 2-3 layers.
  • For added protection, line the foundation wall with plywood or hardboard.
  • Be careful not to damage the insulation by backfilling the foundation with soil.

Membranes for waterproofing bathhouse foundations


Hydrophobic membranes are modern types adhesive insulation. They contain several layers that do not crack and reliably protect the wall. For a bathhouse foundation made of concrete and brick, the membrane should have a thickness of 5 mm.

Membrane materials differ from other insulation methods in the absence of continuous adhesion to the surface. Therefore, it can be mounted on a damp surface; it does not depend on the geometry of the foundation and its deformation.

Before waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse with your own hands, study the characteristics membrane material and select the desired canvas. For example, the LOGICROOFT-SL membrane contains additives that can withstand exposure to water with a high percentage of alkali and inorganic acids.

The membrane is installed on the foundation as follows: the membrane is unrolled, pressed against the wall, heated with a burner and fixed to the wall with clamps until the canvas cools.

Waterproofing various types of bathhouse foundations


The foundation for a bathhouse can be made different ways, the methods of their waterproofing also differ:
  1. Pile foundations are difficult to protect from moisture. In order for the piles to have good water-repellent properties, special additives are added to the concrete composition at the stage of their manufacture.
  2. The columnar foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt, which is laid in several layers along the edges of the well into which concrete is poured. In this case, roofing felt also plays the role of formwork.
  3. The strip foundation is processed immediately after the formwork is removed. The foundation above the ground is coated with bitumen, and the surface that is covered with soil is covered with roofing felt in 2-3 layers.
  4. The screw foundation is galvanized at the manufacturing stage, so there is no point in completely waterproofing it. After ensuring the equality of the protruding parts of the foundation above the ground (cutting the pile), the heads are covered with bitumen mastic. A layer of roofing material is laid between the head of the screw foundation and the wooden grillage. In this case, only that part of the foundation is protected, which was cut to align the upper surface of the foundation elements in one plane.
Watch a video about horizontal waterproofing of a bathhouse foundation:


Be responsible about waterproofing the foundation and prepare the base of the bathhouse for the onslaught of groundwater and precipitation. This way you will maintain the strength of the building for many years.

19.07.2016

Any construction begins with a foundation. What is it for? The task of this structure is to bear the weight of the entire structure and take the entire load and distribute it evenly over the entire area. How reliable the foundation is will determine how long your building will last and for how long. One of the most negative influences on the foundation is water. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the foundation waterproofing is done correctly. In the article you can read about what waterproofing is, what it is like and what it is.

Vertical and horizontal waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing is carried out in a place located between the base of the foundation and the level of rainwater ingress when splashing. It requires a particularly careful approach to the quality of the material used, or more precisely to its moisture resistance, which will guarantee that the floor in the bathhouse will not be damaged by water. The main task of this type of insulation is to provide reliable protection at the points where horizontal insulation is discharged and directly at the joints of the vertical insulation itself. Taking into account all the nuances, be it layer thickness, choice of soil, as well as installation various protections using polystyrene foam boards, asbestos cement sheets and other protective materials, should be carried out at the design stage and when filling the pit.

As for horizontal waterproofing, it is used to protect walls from capillary absorption of moisture and consists of several layers of bitumen roofing material. Usually, two horizontal waterproofings, independent of each other, are made. The first is located under the basement floor, and the second is located at the support points of the walls on top of the foundation slabs. It is worth remembering the need for a reliable connection of horizontal and vertical insulation at their joints, as well as both horizontal insulation in the floor area.

Materials used and methods of application

There are several types based on the method of applying insulation: pasting, coating and plastering.

The adhesive insulation is a multi-layer water-repellent membrane, which consists of polycement bitumen films with a density of up to 5 mm. This method is widely used to protect structures made of brick, concrete or reinforced concrete. Characterized by ease of application by pressing tightly to the surface and heating gas burner, effective water-repellent effect and crack resistance. However, with this type of insulation, additional pressure walls or ties are required to achieve the required effect.

Another type of insulation application is the so-called coating insulation, consisting of membranes, but up to 3 mm thick. For this type, special bitumen-polymer emulsions and mastics, as well as elastic or rigid polymer solutions, are widely used. Application of this insulation is also quite simple. Insulation is applied with spatulas, specialized paint floats and even sprayers.

Plaster insulation is nothing more than several layers of various insulating solutions up to 22 mm thick. The materials widely used are mineral-cement mortar with various additives to increase moisture resistance, polymer concrete, hydroconcrete, asphalt mastics, etc. It is excellent for horizontal waterproofing, however, plaster insulation must be applied only using a hot method to avoid the appearance of cracks.

Waterproofing the foundation of a log bathhouse - some features

It must be remembered that in brick and stone foundations, waterproofing is usually laid 15-25 cm from the ground level, and if it is placed on beams, then the insulation should be located 5-15 cm below them.

Do not forget about treating the bottom layer of the crowns with antiseptics and, importantly, the impregnation of this area should be even more than the entire log house as a whole. The existing voids must be filled with expanded clay, but it is worth considering the fact that expanded clay will effectively perform its functions with a layer thickness of 40 cm or more.

If the house has a basement, waterproofing must be placed in the foundation at the same level as the floor or 13 cm below it and in the base 15-25 cm above the surface of the blind area.

It is also necessary to take into account the groundwater level. So, if groundwater lies below the basement floor, then the outer side of the wall, which is in contact with the ground, is covered with two layers of hot bitumen, and a 25-centimeter layer of greasy clay is placed on the basement floor. After compacting the clay, it is covered with 5 cm. The concrete is leveled, kept for 10-14 days, and then treated with mastic and several layers of roofing material are glued. Finally, the same layer of concrete is laid and leveled, which is then covered with cement mortar and reinforced.

In the event that groundwater is located above the basement floor level, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation of both the walls and the floor. An important point is to create around the walls at the points where they connect with the basement floor, a so-called elastic lock made of tow soaked in bitumen mastic. This type of lock is especially relevant in basements with clay soil with uneven sediment.

The insulation of the walls on the outside is usually raised 50 cm above the groundwater level.

Insulation of the underground, with sufficient high level groundwater, is carried out in the following sequence: a layer of clay 25 cm thick, concrete, waterproofing, cement mortar.

If the basement contains windows that are located below ground level, then in front of such windows it is necessary to construct so-called pit wells with walls lined with stone, brick or concrete. The bottom of the pit must have a reservoir for water, and canopies must be installed above the windows.

The foundation is also subject to heavy loads in winter, when the soil freezes. Therefore, to protect the base from freezing, it is necessary to take into account a number of important points. Thus, the freezing depth is influenced by climate (thickness of snow cover, temperature), and the type of soil, as well as the temperature inside the building. For example, non-freeze types of bases include rock, coarse sand and gravel. It is easy to guess that on freezing soils the foundation must be laid below the maximum soil freezing level.

However, it should be remembered that deep (below the freezing level) laying of the foundation is not always decisive and effective. On the one hand, the vertical force of frost heaving ceases to act on the bottom of the foundation, on the other hand, the impact of the tangential force of frost heaving can tear the upper part of the foundation from the bottom or even pull it out along with the frozen soil. This is possible if the foundation is made of stone, brick or small blocks and such a foundation is located under small buildings. Therefore, to eliminate the tangential force of heaving, a reinforcement frame is laid inside the foundation along the entire height, which reliably connects the top and bottom of the foundation, and the base of the foundation is expanded, it takes the form of a support platform-anchor, which in turn prevents the foundation from being pulled out of the ground during frost heaving soil.

However, this constructive solution only possible when using reinforced concrete. However, when constructing a foundation of stone, brick or small blocks, where vertical reinforcement is not provided, it is possible to prevent the adverse effects of the tangential force of frost heaving. To do this, it is necessary that the foundation walls have a slope and taper upward.

Video about foundation protection:

"Foundation waterproofing device":

Conclusion

To summarize, it can be noted that waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse or house does not present any particular difficulties and can easily be done with your own hands, taking into account all the small features and using the most effective and the latest tools and materials.

Vertical (lateral) coating, welded, glued, plaster waterproofing strip foundation and anti-corrosion coating of screw piles is a separate issue. No less important is a barrier to prevent the effects of moisture from the foundation, dew and rainwater (accumulating on its horizontal surface), on half-logs and the lower crowns of a house or bathhouse. It is not easy to replace them when they rot (in advanced cases up to the window sills). Floor joists are usually cut into the lower crowns. If they deteriorate + complete overhaul of the entire floor with insulation. Therefore, they are ventilated with vents in reinforced tape. And on top of it they make a horizontal cut-off moisture barrier for the log house from the foundation.

For these purposes, roll waterproofing is laid on the base of the foundation (above-ground part) - Ruberoid (RP...) or modern Stekloizol (...PP). The latter is preferable. The fiberglass in its composition is superior in water-repellent properties to fragile cardboard sprinkled with asbestos and impregnated with bitumen in the composition of Roofing Material. There is no specific smell. For horizontal waterproofing of the bottom of the frame from foreign wood artificial materials For the foundation, roll material is laid on at least 2 layers. Under the weight of solid wood, it fills uneven areas on the surface of the foundation. To prevent the formation of dew at the junction different materials, an additional board is placed between the log house and the moisture insulation.

The backing board serves to redistribute the load from the log house to the foundation. And most importantly, it works as part of a complex waterproofing system.

Strip foundations are usually wider than logs. On the foundation ledge insulated with Stekloizol, melting and rainwater accumulates. The dew falls. The moisture remains until it dries. There is an opinion: the lower crowns of a larch frame do not need a backing board. Not true. Any log house needs shut-off moisture insulation. Until the backing board rots, the mortgage crown will not begin to deteriorate. A wide backing board made of larch is a reliable, reasonable solution. Pine/spruce won't last long. Because wide board usually cut from the middle of the tree, the core part is durable only in larch.


There is no need to insulate the board between the log house and the foundation. But it will be necessary to caulk this place in a year.

It is advisable to make the foundation base higher. Rain splashes ricochet from the ground into the frame. Reduces the ricochet of splashes by tilting the foundation blind area outward. It is preferable/cheaper to make a brick base. Made of sand-lime brick. Red ceramic is prettier, but tolerates moisture worse. Capillary suction of moisture from the soil foundation is regular. It is also necessary to waterproof the brick from the concrete. There are now enough materials for waterproofing. Not like in the old days: melted pine resin + birch bark as a “roll” waterproofing.

Laying the first crown of timber - secrets and tricks

Before starting to build a house, everyone has a question: how to lay the first crown of timber? It is necessary to lay the first crown of a house made of timber as thoroughly as possible, with mathematical calculations, so that the walls of the future house stand perfectly exactly at an angle of 90 degrees. This is not too difficult to do - the main thing is to take your time and prepare very well for this work.

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to lay at least two layers of waterproofing, then a backing board and then another layer of the same waterproofing.

Waterproofing between the log house and the foundation

Before laying the timber, ensure maximum waterproofing of the foundation. To do this, lay the roofing material twice, and then lay the glass insulation once. All laid layers must exceed the width of your foundation by 25 centimeters along its entire perimeter.

The beams being laid must touch each other as tightly as possible; in no case should even the slightest voids be left in the wall, especially its lower part. After all, it is on this part that the floor is subsequently hung and all serious loads are placed on it.

The beams need to be fastened together on metal dowels to a depth of 3 centimeters, and they are finished off with a wooden mallet. If the beam has a slight bend, lay it down with its even edge. There are cases when the connection of the lower beams requires additional fastening using staples or nails (they need to be installed through 2 crowns).

Before laying waterproofing on a roofing felt foundation. check that its upper plane is strictly horizontal. You need to check the horizontal position with your own hands using a hydraulic level, since a simple level often gives a large error. The difference should not be more than 1 cm over the entire plane of the foundation. If the difference in level is greater, level the surface with mortar or an additional layer of waterproofing.

Laying the first crown of the log house - assembly diagram

Before laying timber on the foundation, we need to take care of the durability of our structure. To do this, we lay out slats pre-treated with an antiseptic, approximately 10-15 mm thick. The distance between them is 25-30 cm.

  1. Well, we put our first layer of beams on top of the exposed slats.

The slats are necessary to prevent the crown from coming into contact with the foundation. This trick will greatly increase the life of the log house, thanks to additional protection from rotting, and we fill the gap between the timber and the foundation polyurethane foam.

  • Next, we check with a level to make sure the surface is even, because an uneven first crown results in an uneven wall.
  • After eliminating the inaccuracies, we fill the gap with polyurethane foam. The timber must be prepared in advance, even when delivering the materials to the site. Choose best bars who have minimal amount knots, as smooth as possible, without blue. The timber must be selected according to the cut of the annual rings - choose the one whose ring density is as high as possible (in this case, the timber should be the middle part of the tree). At the end of the cut you should see circles that diverge from the center. The selected wood must be coated several times with bitumen mastic (liquid), in combination with working off, so that the composition is absorbed as deeply as possible into the future timber. The ends do not need to be processed; they must be clean, because excess moisture will be removed from the wood through them. It depends on how you process the wood. service life directly depends lower crown and the time after which the need to replace it will arise.

    In some cases, there is no need to attach the first crown to the foundation - a house made of timber will be quite heavy and will stand very well on the foundation without anchors. Corner joints are made without the use of locks; the timber is joined at the ends. Such joints are made so that in the future it will be possible to replace any timber without dismantling the corners. In the corners, the timber at the junction of various partitions is connected by metal plates or brackets.

    Although many builders tightly fasten the beams to each other and to the foundation.

    All angles must be strictly 90 degrees, then the geometry of the house is considered ideal. You need to check that the lengths of the opposite sides are equal, and that the diagonals between the corners (opposite) of the house coincide - if everything is correct, then the corners are drawn accurately. When working on laying the lower rows, you should never rush, because this determines what kind of walls you will get during further construction.

    How to correctly lay out the first crown of a house made of timber?

    During construction wooden house The quality of laying the first row of beams is of great importance. It depends on this how even the walls will be, because correcting mistakes during the construction process is quite difficult.

    The strength and reliability of the entire structure as a whole depends on how well and correctly the first crown of a house made of timber is laid.

    To correctly lay timber on a foundation, you do not need to have special knowledge or experience, but, of course, you will have to try very hard.

    Selection and preparation of building materials

    The timber for building a house must be of high quality.

    For a house made of timber, it is necessary to choose the highest quality wood, with high density, a smooth surface and not damp. It is advisable that the beams for the first row be cut from the core of the tree; this can be determined by the annual rings on the cuts; they should be located very tightly and diverge from the center. Logs with black spots or bluish-tinged cuts cannot be used as a base.

    The smoothest beams with the fewest knots are selected and impregnated with liquid bitumen mastic, to which waste oil is added. Protective composition applied 3 or 4 times so that the wood is saturated as deeply as possible, while the cuts must be left untreated - moisture will escape through them. The impregnated beams are laid out on a flat, open surface and allowed to dry completely. After this, the material is ready for installation.

    Foundation waterproofing device

    Mounting diagram bottom trim and waterproofing for the first time.

    Waterproofing a timber house should be done after checking the foundation with a water level. If differences in height exceed 1 cm, the surface of the foundation must be leveled using concrete mortar. Next, prepare a bitumen mixture and cover the base with a dense layer, carefully filling the smallest cracks and gaps. After this, the roofing material is heated with a gasoline or gas burner, cut into strips and laid directly on the mastic. The width of the strips should be approximately 20 cm greater than the width of the foundation. At the joints, roofing felt is overlapped by 10-15 cm, heated separately and coated with mastic again. When the first layer of waterproofing is laid, another one is made according to the same scheme.

    It is recommended to lay a layer of glass insulation on top of the roofing felt; all layers should protrude beyond the edges of the foundation at the same distance along the entire perimeter. Instead of glass insulation, you can use a laying board, but then it should be covered with roofing felt on top and all seams should be glued with mastic. The better the waterproofing, the more durable the building will be.

    Laying the first row of the log house

    The design of the nodes of the first crown of a house made of timber.

    To properly lay the first crown of the house, you should prepare the following materials:

    • wooden slats 15 mm thick;
    • beam;
    • metal staples;
    • polyurethane foam.

    The slats must be impregnated with any antiseptic agent, which will protect the wood from damage.

    First, slats are laid on the waterproofing. They should be located across the foundation strip every 30 cm, and the length of the slats should correspond to the width of the foundation, as shown in the figure. Now they begin to lay the prepared beams on top, which form the first crown.

    It is very important that the angles correspond to 90°, otherwise the house will be skewed. Also, after the row is formed, its location relative to the horizontal is checked.

    If individual sections protrude from the general plane, they are leveled using a plane. Corner elements joined at the ends and fixed with metal brackets.

    When the crown of the house is laid, the resulting gaps between the waterproofing and the timber are filled with polyurethane foam. This will not only strengthen the structure, but also protect it from the penetration of rodents, insects, water and snow. There is no need to attach the timber to the foundation, since the structure will be quite heavy and will not be able to move. At this point, the installation of the first row is considered complete. Next comes the stage of installing vertical posts inside the perimeter and cutting out holes in the timber for the logs, after which you can begin further construction of the walls of the house from timber.

    If the material for construction is chosen correctly and the installation technology is strictly followed, the house will last for decades without requiring overhaul. The most important thing is to carry out each process as efficiently as possible, then even a lack of experience will not prevent you from building a strong, reliable and neat house with your own hands.

    How to lay the first crown of timber on the foundation?

    The very first important and slow stage of laying timber walls is the installation of the first crown. Let's look at how to lay the first crown of timber on the foundation. Here you need to prepare very well - treat the timber for the first rad with an antiseptic (wood impregnation) and it is better to do this on all sides so that the material is protected from rotting. Usually it is enough to repeat the antiseptic procedure 2 times.

    It would seem that it is difficult to build walls from timber, because it is almost like a construction kit, but the most difficult moments, it turns out, lie in creating a flat horizontal surface, which is often not achieved when pouring the foundation. Therefore, if the foundation is not ideal (it was not made to the level), we align the horizontal position using one of the following methods:

    • 1) level the foundation with a layer of mortar (concrete);
    • 2) we smooth the bars under the first crown, and later we will fill the cracks with polyurethane foam or add foundation;
    • 3) we cut off the beam of the first crown so that it is level and horizontal along the upper plane;
    • 4) we make a 10 mm backing board, cutting and adjusting it to the ideal horizontal, and the first crown will be laid on it;
    • 5) we make brickwork or masonry from structural foam concrete (grade no lower than D-500), due to which we will, by adjusting the thickness of the seams, find precious centimeters and create an even line.

    Before laying the timber, it is imperative to waterproof it. For example, put 2-3 layers of roofing felt (or waterproofing) on ​​the foundation, which will cut off moisture from the foundation, which is detrimental to the timber. The bottom row can be laid out with boards 50-100 mm thick and fastened together in a “tenon and groove” pattern.

    However, you can do without a backing board by immediately laying the first crown on the waterproofing.

    The lower crowns of the timber need to be trimmed, and to connect them, prepare tenons with grooves (you can use a dovetail connection), being careful not to confuse the position of the grooves and depressions.

    We fasten the first crown of the timber house at the corners with metal staples, driving them “under the face”). Here in general outline the answer to the question of how to lay the first crown of timber on the foundation. This initial stage of laying the timber takes a lot of time, but after it the rest of the work will go much faster.

    How to correctly lay the first crowns on the foundation


    Laying the first crown of timber - secrets and tricks Before starting to build a house, everyone has a question: how to lay the first crown of timber? It is necessary to lay the first crown of a house made of timber...

Laying timber

  • Tools and materials
  • Timber laying technology
  • Features of the insulation process
  • Installation of beams on the foundation
  • Final stages of installation

Every home craftsman involved in construction own home, at a certain stage the question arises of how to lay the timber on the foundation.

To build a house from timber, they often use strip foundation with a height of 0.5 m above the ground.

Tools and materials

To work, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

  • waterproofing material;
  • building level;
  • fasteners, anchors, dowels, nuts with wide washers;
  • wooden mallet;
  • antiseptics;
  • electric planer.

Timber laying technology

The main point of building a wooden house is the choice of timber.

Timber laying diagram.

The best of them are considered to be smooth, with the least number of knots and without a tint of blue. When choosing timber, you should pay attention to the annual rings. Preference is given to bars whose ring density is the highest.

Laying timber cannot be carried out at a high level without a high-quality foundation. The ideal option is a concrete monolithic slab, but high price material in most cases makes its use impossible. The exception is mobile soil, where it is impossible to build a foundation of any other type.

Quite often, to build a wooden house from timber, a strip foundation is used, the height of which above ground level should be at least 0.5 m. The elevated part is made of brick.

  1. Before the beams of the first crown are laid, the side that will be located inside the room is first determined. The side of the beam on which there is a visible defect will be directed upward. The side of the beam that has convexities will be the side. In the process of laying timber, it is necessary to take into account its shrinkage, according to which the final cladding of the house is carried out after 1-2 years.
  2. The timber of the lower crown is coated with mining, the rest of it is treated with special antiseptic compounds.
  3. To lay the first crown of a wooden house, everything is carried out quite thoroughly, making all the necessary mathematical calculations. This is necessary to ensure that the walls of the new house are strictly at an angle of 90°. The most important thing is to take your time at this stage and do everything with maximum accuracy.

Features of the insulation process

Scheme of waterproofing the foundation from above under the timber.

Before proceeding with the installation of the first crown, insulation must be carried out, for which two layers of waterproofing material should be laid, between which a lining board should be placed.

The insulation includes two layers of rolled roofing felt and glass insulation. All materials are laid in such a way that their edges protrude 25 cm beyond the foundation. At the corners the insulation is overlapped.

Before the insulation is laid between the crown and the base, you need to check the surface of the foundation, which should be perfectly flat, without drops. To do this, use a hydraulic level, which is more accurate than a regular one. Differences of no more than 1 cm relative to the entire foundation plane are allowed. Strong differences are removed by laying roofing material or leveling with cement mortar.

No less important point is to seal the gap between the foundation and the lower crown of the beam.

The most common method is to add cement mortar under a layer of waterproofing material. Carrying out work may be complicated due to the difficulty of accessing the desired location. In some cases, the gap is simply sealed with pieces of wood of a certain thickness. Wooden wedges or boards are attached between the roofing felt and the lower beam, which are driven tightly in until the gap is completely eliminated. There can be an unlimited number of such inserts in both length and width.

Scheme of laying timber on the foundation.

The most common method of sealing cracks in Lately is to foam them with construction foam, which is sold in cans. It will be better to carry out such work in damp weather, when the material sets very well.

A day after foaming, excess material is cut off with a sharp knife. Subsequently, the area between the lower crown and the base is covered with metal ebbs or a decorative strip. This is necessary in order to protect the foam from exposure to direct sunlight, under the influence of which it will collapse literally in one season. In addition, a reliable barrier is created for the accumulation of moisture, which will lead to rotting of the wood.

Installation of beams on the foundation

After the foundation has been insulated, the installation of the lower piping begins.

The beams installed on the foundation should fit fairly tightly to each other without creating a minimum space between them. This is especially true for the lower part of the frame, where the floor will be created and where significant loads will be placed.

The beams are fastened together metal dowels which are achieved using a wooden mallet. In some cases, if necessary, the beams are additionally fastened with staples or nails.

Scheme of fastening the beams to each other.

The joining of the lower crown beams to each other occurs by picking at the corners using any of the existing methods:

  • “half a tree” - an option for laying beams, in which corner connections on one beam the upper half of the array is removed, and on the other - the lower half;
  • “into the paw” is the most common way of connecting beams, which is the opposite and does not include the end part of the log protruding beyond the level of the wall.

Nuts and wide washers are used to secure the timber to the surface of the foundation. A wide washer will expand the area of ​​contact of the nut with the surface of the wood. You only need to use a hex nut, and square or round nuts are not suitable for such purposes. If you use narrow nuts to fasten the beams or do not use them at all, then during execution installation work it will be quite clear that the nut will be completely sunk into the surface of the beam and the connection of the house frame elements will be unreliable and short-lived.

Final stages of installation

When the beams of the lower crown in the corners were fastened with dowels or nails, the anchor is usually not installed. In the future, the first anchors will be installed on the inner contour of the foundation strip.

  1. On one segment wooden beam there must be at least 2 anchor bolts, but provided that the house has short walls.
  2. With help building level carefully check the diagonals and angles of the lower crown. All existing irregularities are eliminated with an electric planer.
  3. After the beams are attached to the foundation, they begin to install the vertical posts of the house frame.

The issue of attaching timber to the foundation is controversial and has both supporters and opponents. Despite this, experts argue that fastening is mandatory, since the foundation tends to be in motion; it is often said that it “walks.” The rigid fixation of the lower frame completely absorbs any movement of the base.

In the most critical situation, the lower crown of the beams can move slightly to the side or tear out the anchor. That is why fastening the timber to the surface of the foundation guarantees the stability of the entire structure.

In some cases, the lower crown of the frame is not attached to the foundation, since this is considered unnecessary. Under the weight of its own weight, a house made of beams will stand quite firmly without anchors. Corner joints are created without the use of special locks, and the beam itself is joined through the ends. This method allows, as necessary, to replace any part of the timber without dismantling the corners.

How to lay timber on a foundation: installation stages (video)


Every home craftsman who builds his own house, at some stage, has a question about how to lay timber on the foundation. In addition, the insulation of the base is also of interest.

How to lay timber on the foundation? Analysis of all the subtleties

It is strictly forbidden to place a crown right away, on a bare, even if completely dry, foundation. Moreover, lumber, barely brought from the warehouse, is not suitable for starting work.

  • The first thing to do is to insulate the base from water. A house on the ground is affected not only by precipitation, but also by groundwater. Their seasonal rise is not the only danger. Even the presence of groundwater in a state of temporary rest does not stop its insidious influence on the foundation, since there is such a phenomenon as capillary penetration. Therefore, the foundation must be thoroughly protected from moisture. For this purpose, the level is checked for its evenness and differences in height are eliminated - by filling the depressions with concrete or by placing pieces of roofing felt.

Those who bought profiled timber will connect it in the manner suggested by the profile. If you have stocked up on a budget option, you will have carpentry work to remove wood at the ends to connect the beams in the corners. There may be several options.

  • "Half a tree." The simplest connection is at the timber preparation stage. The upper half of the lumber is removed on one element and the lower half on the second. However, such a connection is considered not the most successful, since if there are errors in sampling or assembly, the house bears
  • significant heat loss.

The process is as follows.

  • The first row of timber is placed on top of the slats, strictly along the marked perimeter. Its geometry is carefully checked by level.

After laying out the first row of timber, the gap provided by the backing slats is filled. There are several ways to eliminate the gap: it is clogged with wooden wedges, or covered with cement mortar. But modern craftsmen more often fill the gap with polyurethane foam. Until it dries, no further work is carried out. Afterwards, the swollen excess foam is simply cut off.

How to lay timber on the foundation? Analysis of all the subtleties - Easy renovation of apartments and houses


The instructions on how to lay timber on a foundation are simple in general terms, but require extreme precision and accuracy from the builder. Incorrect calculation and negligence in work will lead to