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Step-by-step instructions for laying a stove with your own hands. How to build a simple brick oven with your own hands: examples with step-by-step diagrams

A dacha or a small country cottage can easily be heated with a mini-stove. The designs of mini-ovens are similar to metal potbelly stoves - in terms of heating speed and compactness, but they have much more high efficiency. Many designs and technologies for constructing brick mini-stoves have been invented. One of the most simple circuits mini-stoves will be considered.

Sequence of a small brick oven

There is no need to lay a special foundation for a mini-stove. Wooden floors, provided that the board is at least 50 mm thick, can serve as a base for a stove.

  • After choosing a place for the mini-stove, in the corner of the building, in a wall or in a niche, waterproofing is carried out under the base of the stove. For this purpose, any rolled waterproofing materials in two layers and coating insulation - bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics are applicable.
  • Coarse dry sand 10 mm thick is poured onto the waterproofing layer and leveled to the horizon. In the first row of the stove base there will be 12 bricks, laid dry, without mortar. Horizontal alignment is carried out using a building level
  • A layer of clay mortar is applied to the starting row of bricks, then a blower door is installed, wrapping it with an asbestos cord. Fastening into the masonry is done with wire.
  • The second row and all subsequent ones are laid on clay mortar. A row of fireclay bricks, rather than red ceramic bricks, is laid under the grate to ensure the lining of the mini-firebox
  • In the fourth row, bricks are placed on edge. Starting from the level of the beginning of the chimney channel in the rear wall of the stove, several bricks are made to “knock out” - they are laid without mortar, for subsequent cleaning of the chimney from soot. It is possible to install another door instead of knockout bricks, but the heat loss from a metal door will be greater than from several bricks without mortar. The laying of the rear wall with knockout bricks is done with a slight offset outward. Linings made of asbestos cardboard or fireclay are placed under the internal partition of the chimney duct.
  • Before installation, the fire door is wrapped with asbestos cord and fastened with wire. The door should open in an upward direction. Fix the door in the brickwork with wire anchors
  • In the fifth row, the bricks are laid flat, in the sixth - edgewise, in the seventh - flat, the dressing must be done, and the last brick of the row is always laid out, observing the dressing with the first. But the back wall of the mini-stove in question is laid only with bricks on edge.
  • In the eighth row, a brick is laid to cover the firebox door. In this area, above the firebox, a brick with a beveled edge is required, since the flame must be directed towards the cast iron hob of the stove, towards the center of the burner
  • It is unacceptable to install a cast iron hob on a clay mortar and directly on a brick, due to the significant difference in linear thermal expansion cast iron and ceramics. Heating to high temperatures will cause deformation in the contact zone, followed by the formation of cracks and destruction. The perimeter of the mini-stove under the slabs must have a gasket made of asbestos cord, and the slab is mounted on the cord
  • After laying the ninth row, a chimney channel is formed in the tenth. A small-sized stove can have a different chimney design - direct, direct-flow or counter-flow, bell-type, horizontal or vertical, as well as combined. When laying the rear wall bricks offset outward, as in the example under consideration, you will need a chimney pipe that has a rear extension
  • The eleventh row is the area where the joint is made: the brick and metal sections of the chimney are connected. At the joint level, a view valve is mounted with preliminary winding of asbestos cord and subsequent clay sealing

The final stage is the first cleaning of the chimney. They take out the knockout bricks and remove construction debris from the chimney, then install the bricks in their original place

To complete the work, finishing is required:

  • The sand bedding under the starting row of bricks should not spill out; for this, the seam between the floor and the bricks is sealed with clay mortar and covered with a plinth to strengthen the seam and give the building overall aesthetics
  • Finishing is the simplest and most economical - whitewashing the stove with lime in two times. Particular care must be taken to pass the joint between the hob and the lower brick row. It is very difficult to wash off lime from the metal of stove fittings and stoves, so it would be wise to cover them with polyethylene or other material from splashes and streaks of whitewash

In the ordering diagrams of small stoves, there are few technical difficulties, and by precisely following the order of the stove with a brick of the specified format, it is possible to obtain a stove unit that will work correctly, have economical fuel consumption and not smoke into the room. A few more nuances that are common for laying brick ovens of any design:

  1. Drying of the stove before the accelerating firebox must be complete - the clay solution must be completely dry. In this case, when fired, it will become “stone”. An uncured clay solution will release water too quickly when heated and will crack.
  2. The accelerating furnace is produced using fast-burning fuel - wood chips, paper. The combustion chamber should be heated gradually, with an initial low temperature. The brick and mortar in the joints must warm up slowly, with complete drying, this adapts the materials and the entire structure for subsequent extreme operating conditions - prolonged contact with open flames and thermal shocks. If you immediately heat a built stove with coal or large logs, you can get cracking of the mortar mixture in the seams, which are not necessarily visually noticeable. But the flue gases and inflow air will change the movement in the current and the chimney channel, and this is a direct decrease in efficiency, incorrect operation of the unit and smoke in the room.
  3. The first starting rows of the stove are laid out on cement-sand mortars using Portland cement PTs400 or fast-hardening PTs500, subject to quick laying skills. Classic proportions C:P = 1:4 and 1:5.
  4. Clay solutions for furnaces are prepared experimentally, selecting the amount of sand depending on the fat content of the clay used. The usual proportion is ½ - 1/3. Not required for small oven large quantity clay, so it’s easier to buy ready-made dry clay with the fat content indicated on the package. Sometimes fireclay powder and salt are added to the clay mortar (to prevent rapid dehydration of the mortar in the joints - a glass of table salt per bucket of water for the mortar).

The most difficult thing in the design of a small stove is the chimney pipe and the transition section to the chimney. Chimneys are laid out with bricks on edge. Reducing the thickness of the masonry is possible because the temperatures in the chimney are incomparable with the heating of the combustion chamber. In addition, the overall dimensions of the stove are reduced.

Mini-stoves are used in garages, for heating small outbuildings, and also country houses. Despite its small size and simplicity, a mini-oven performs all the functions of a heating unit - it heats the room, you can cook food and dry things. To install a hob with two burners, you will need a larger design with internal separation above a single firebox - for the chimney pipe and the hob. But changes in designs are not fundamental; to install a stove with a different placement of the hob, you should also have a good ordering scheme and carefully carry out the masonry steps.

Where there is access to solid fuel, the good old Russian stove will always be relevant. It will warm the house, you can cook food on it, and such a unit does not depend on the presence of a centralized gas pipeline or electrical network. However, among a number of advantages there is also a disadvantage - the complexity of constructing the structure.

Do you want to make a stove, but don’t know how to properly fold the stove and arrange the chimney? We will help you realize your plans. The article describes in detail all stages of construction wood stove, given practical recommendations on the choice of materials and indicates the technological nuances of masonry work.

Depending on the main function, three are distinguished:

  • for heating;
  • for cooking food;
  • combined option.

The latter is intended both for heating the home and for preparing food. An impressive chimney system with numerous channels is installed for the house. It must retain as much heat as possible from the combustion of fuel and smoke gases in order to warm the air inside the house.

If you need a stove for cooking, you can make do with a regular vertical chimney, but install a hob above the firebox. You can also make an oven underneath it. To create a combined version of such a stove, both a hob and a chimney that retains heat are used.

Depending on the type of device, choose its location. The heating stove should not be placed close to external wall, otherwise some of the thermal energy will simply evaporate outside. It is better to place it in the center of the room so that the air in different parts of the house warms up evenly.

It is better to think about this point when designing a house. A heating stove can become an object that divides a large room into several separate zones. Each of them will be warm.

The hob is treated completely differently. In a closed kitchen, it is best to place it close to two adjacent external walls. This will allow excess heat energy to be transferred outside so that the room does not overheat during cooking.

Cooking stoves are also installed separately, in the open air. This is a popular element of the recreation area. Nearby there may be a grill, barbecue, cauldron and other cooking utensils. On a cool evening, the warmth from such a stove will pleasantly warm your vacationing guests.

A combination stove, like a cooking stove, is placed near two walls, but it is better if they are internal. Then the heat will not go outside, but into the house, and the kitchen will be moderately warm. The chimney is made massive, as for heating, but it is shifted towards the living rooms. As a result thermal energy spreads throughout the house fairly evenly.

Preparation for work

Brick is used to lay the stove and stove different types. Usually they take red solid one for external masonry and fireclay - to make the internal lining of the firebox, as well as the smoke well.

The foundation is poured with concrete mortar. To prepare it you will need cement of at least M400, preferably M500. The sand can be river or from a quarry, but it must first be sifted to prevent the ingress of impurities. Clean water should also be used. For the solution, you should also take granite crushed stone about 30 mm.

The foundation is backfilled using rubble granite, a suitable fraction is approximately 300 mm. In addition, you will need to prepare a solution of red clay and sand.

Instead of clay, you can purchase clay powder; the instructions for using it are indicated on the package. All components must be of good quality; the integrity and service life of the future stove depends on this. To seal the joints you need to prepare.

The work is carried out using ordinary construction tools.

You may need:

  • containers for mixing the solution;
  • Master OK;
  • Bulgarian;
  • plumb line;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • rule;
  • mallet;
  • furnace hammer;
  • other devices for processing and laying bricks.

To make a high-quality solution, it is better to use a hammer drill or drill with the appropriate characteristics, as well as an attachment designed for these purposes. A shovel and a sieve will come in handy.

Construction of a wood stove

Once the type of device has been selected, materials have been prepared and a suitable location has been selected, work can begin.

The process of creating a wood stove is divided into three stages:

  1. Construction of the foundation.
  2. Construction of the furnace itself.
  3. Creation of a chimney structure.

All work should be carried out strictly according to technology. During operation, such a device heats up and is subjected to high loads. Even a small mistake can lead to big problems in the future. If in doubt, it is better to consult an experienced stove maker.

Construction of a separate foundation

The base for the stove should not be connected to the strip or column foundation of the house. The device is heavy, it will upset the base more than the walls and roof. Therefore, even at the design stage, this point must be taken into account.

When creating a separate foundation for a brick kiln, it is important to make the bedding correctly, be sure to perform reinforcement, leveling and glue waterproofing

If the house has already been built, but you still need a stove, you will have to open the floor, get to the ground and fill a separate base. Exception - monolithic foundation, his load bearing capacity will withstand such additional load without noticeable deformation.


The formwork used is ordinary sheet roofing felt reinforced with wooden supports, but plastic film can also be used instead.

First, dig a pit of the same shape as the base of the furnace, but slightly larger, about 20 cm for each side, and about half a meter deep.

After this, perform the following operations:

  1. The soil at the bottom is carefully leveled and compacted.
  2. A layer of sand is poured to the bottom, it is also compacted and moistened, the recommended thickness of the sand cushion is about 90 mm.
  3. Sheets of roofing material are laid on the walls, this is a waterproofing layer.
  4. If necessary, roofing felt is reinforced with boards and bricks, which act as formwork.
  5. A layer of crushed stone is poured onto the sand and compacted.
  6. A reinforcing mesh is made from a metal rod, and wire is used for knitting.
  7. A solution consisting of cement with the addition of sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 2:1:2 is poured onto a third of the remaining height.
  8. Pour the next cement-sand layer (3:1), leaving about five centimeters to the top of the pit.
  9. After this, add another layer of the same mixture to the very top.
  10. The screed is leveled according to the rule.

Now you need to wait about four weeks for the fresh foundation to harden well.

After this, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the base is covered with two or three layers of roofing felt, which are glued with bitumen mastic. Waterproofing will protect the stove body from contact with moisture from the ground. The bottom layer of the foundation, if desired, can be made of cement and gravel; the recommended proportion is one to three.

If you don’t have roofing felt at hand, ordinary boards will serve as formwork, but they need to be covered plastic film to protect from water. It is best to build the foundation for the stove to the level flooring or even a little higher. It's easier to do this way Finishing work.


The upper part of the foundation is carefully leveled and checked with a level. It is better if it is flush with the plane of the floor covering

The part that rises above the floor is usually made a little larger; for this, the formwork is expanded. It would also not hurt to perform separate reinforcement of the top layer - a mesh with a pitch of about 75 mm will do.

The procedure for laying the furnace

To understand how to correctly assemble a simple stove with a stove, first perform the so-called dry masonry, i.e. lay out the bricks in rows, according to the planned pattern, but without mortar. Instead, use pieces of plywood, slats or boards of suitable size. The space between the individual rows should be the same.

If the brick is laid correctly, the dry masonry is dismantled, after which the masonry mortar is prepared and work is done with it. The easiest way is to use clay powder from the store. You just need to dilute it correctly according to the instructions and add sand.

With clay it's a little more complicated. First, you need to soak it in water for about a day. After this, add sand in small portions to the resulting mixture of water and clay and knead the composition with your hands until smooth. The amount of sand depends on how thick the clay is used.

As a result, the resulting mixture will become thick enough so that it does not flow from the shovel, but slides off it. In addition, the composition should not stick to metal tools. If the resulting mixture meets these characteristics, you can begin laying. Here is an example circuit for small oven combined type.

First, markings are applied to roofing material glued to the base.


The first row is always made only from whole bricks. First, markings are made on the roofing felt and a cord is installed. The finished row is checked with a level; it will become the starting point for leveling the rest of the masonry

The first two rows are made continuous, while the vertical joints between whole bricks in adjacent rows should not coincide.

The next two rows are made with gaps for the blower and holes for cleaning the chimney. The openings are closed with metal doors.

The doors should be prepared before installation: drill holes in the corners, insert pieces of wire into them and wrap the frame with asbestos cord. Pieces of wire are placed in the mortar between the bricks

The fourth row is made of fireclay bricks, since the firebox already begins here. Part of the height of the brick is selected, and a grate is placed above the opening.

The fifth row is performed in the same way as the fourth. From the sixth to the eighth, the masonry continues to be repeated, but a gap is left for the combustion chamber door.


The top of the wall between the firebox and the chimney needs to be slightly rounded, carefully cutting off the edges of the top layer of bricks. This measure will improve traction and prevent the formation of turbulence.

The row above the firebox door will become the base for the stove. Part of the brick around the perimeter is removed, lined with asbestos cord and a cast-iron hob is placed on top.


The red line indicates the places where you need to select about one and a half centimeters in order for the stove intended for cooking to stand up. The asbestos cord should be pre-impregnated with masonry mortar

If done correctly, the slab and the top of the ninth row of bricks will be level.

Next, they continue to lay out the side walls and the chimney duct. This will take about six or seven more rows. The next row should also include a canopy hanging over the stove. To strengthen it, use a steel corner.

All that remains is to lay out the chimney; its height is nine bricks. In this example, on the sixth row out of nine, they stopped laying out the partition between the left and middle channels. Thus, a gap was created for the free movement of smoke.


Now we need solid masonry over the left and center channels.

In the right smoke channel, before the last row of bricks, a gate is inserted and a gap is left for the chimney pipe.


Such a relatively small stove of simple design would be appropriate in small house or at the dacha. It will provide the necessary heating and cooking capabilities

All that remains is to arrange the chimney and carry out facing work, if necessary.

Experienced stove makers sometimes ignore the dry masonry stage, but for novice craftsmen it is mandatory. This will help you understand the internal structure of the stove, all its channels and cavities, in order to prevent possible errors.


For the firebox, fire-resistant fireclay brick is used; the pipe and the stove mass are made of solid red brick. It is prohibited to use sand-lime brick in the construction of furnaces. Each element must be cleaned of any contamination before laying.

In almost every row, some bricks are adjusted to size. Experienced stove makers advise that when dismantling dry masonry, separately fold the elements of each row. You can also take a marker and mark each brick with the number of the row and the number of the element’s place in the masonry.

Instead of mortar for dry masonry, it is most convenient to use wooden slats the same thickness. They will also be useful in the future to control the amount of mortar between the bricks.

The work is carried out as follows:

  1. During “wet” masonry, each row is first laid out dry to once again check the position of all elements.
  2. On the bottom row, narrow slats that were used previously are placed on the sides.
  3. A layer of solution approximately 10-12 mm thick is applied on top.
  4. Lay the brick and hammer it with a rubber hammer until it settles on the mortar to the level of the slats.
  5. The laying continues in the same way.
  6. After removing the slats, the resulting cavities are filled with solution.
  7. The resulting fresh seam must be immediately embroidered to give the masonry an aesthetic appearance.

The slats are removed only when the row is third or fourth from the top. Now they can be reused. To carry out the work you will need about four sets of such slats.

Each row that is laid on the mortar must be checked by level and plumb for its position relative to the horizontal and vertical.

Crushed bricks cannot be used in laying parts of the furnace that are subject to constant temperature loads. In general, it is undesirable to use elements with cracks and chips in the construction of solid wood and chimneys. Crushed bricks may only be used to fill the base for the foundation of the stove.

Old brick obtained from dismantling destroyed structures is suitable for laying a foundation if it is not severely damaged.

The quality of the masonry largely depends on the adhesion strength of the brick and mortar.

To improve this moment, experienced craftsmen recommend:

  1. Before laying, red brick is soaked for 7-10 minutes. Fireclay only needs to be dipped in water and shake off the drops.
  2. Place the brick in place in one clear motion, without moving or tapping it.
  3. Apply only the required amount of mortar to the masonry site. The seams in the solid wood should not be more than 5 mm, in the firebox - no more than 3 mm.
  4. During the laying process you need to “mop”, i.e. use a stiff brush to rub the inside surface of the smoke ducts and oven chambers to create the smoothest possible surface along the flow path of the flue gases.

If it was not possible to immediately put the brick in place, you should completely clear the mortar from both the element itself and the place where it is installed, and lay the brickwork on a fresh layer of mortar.

When laying pipes, it is allowed to use only red solid bricks, which are well resistant to acid deposits and temperature changes. The smoother the internal surface of the chimney, the better the draft and the less blockages. You can treat the insides of the pipe with liquid glass.

Our website contains articles from detailed description technologies for constructing different types of brick kilns, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with:

Useful video on the topic

Scheme for creating a small heating and cooking stove:

Construction of a furnace equipped with a drying chamber according to Proskurin’s drawings:

Laying a stove does not tolerate fuss and haste. It is necessary to think through and carefully carry out each stage of work in order to obtain the desired result. It's better to start with a small design, as described above. Having gained experience, you can move on to building more complex ovens: with an oven, drying chamber, arched openings, etc.

Do you have experience building a stove with a stove? Please tell readers about the technical nuances of arranging the foundation and laying the solid fuel unit. Comment on the post, participate in discussions and add photos of your homemade products. The feedback block is located below.

A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries to guarantee the normal operation of the unit.

Those who want to know how to perfectly build brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues, of interest to an independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.

Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.

There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:

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One of the signs of the convenience of living in a private cottage is its consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the structure, only a warm house can be truly cozy. One of the best solutions– organizing heating using a brick stove for the home. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick stoves to harmonize with any environment, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

At correct design and installation, a brick oven can also be used in wooden houses Source taldomstroi.ru

What types of brick stoves are there for houses?

Brick stoves intended for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

  • Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating separate rooms or the entire house;
  • Cooking. The design is designed in such a way that the main heat flow goes upward - to the hob. Such a stove is heated only during cooking;
  • Heating and cooking. Essentially, this is a heating stove with hob. Since such a stove has a mixed functional purpose, cooking food on it in the summer is not always comfortable.

Whatever type of stove it is, some general qualities must be present in any case:

  • the oven should warm up well;
  • the chimney design must provide good draft;
  • high level of general fire safety;
  • the stove should fit harmoniously into the overall environment, creating a feeling of comfort.

Based on the shape of the product, brick kilns are divided into square, round, corner, T-shaped, and rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the thickness of the walls of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made of thick-walled, thin-walled and combined types.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the method of laying them Source akson-quick.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

There are several reasons why a brick stove for a home is more preferable than products made from other materials:

  • The design, thought out to the smallest detail, perfectly serves as a heat storage device. It is this feature that allows you to fire a brick stove much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood should be added to metal stoves every 5-6 hours;
  • Due to the high accumulation of heat, a brick oven is highly economical and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about its metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer; almost complete decomposition of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and a water base. Excess heat heats the masonry, which in turn warms the rooms;
  • There is no effect of incandescence on the outer parts, so the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel ones.

On the outside, the bricks are hot, but not red-hot, unlike iron parts Source minsknews.by

This is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when cooled, it is absorbed back. This process is commonly called stove breathing and thanks to it, the humidity level of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating devices require the installation of an additional humidifier; without it, the air dries out.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its disadvantages:

  • The long cooling of the brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this coin also has a downside - an equally long warm-up. Therefore, when lighting a stove in a cold room of a large area, the temperature in the house will rise slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to purchase a convector.
  • Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is erected simultaneously with the house. The furnace must function without interruption, so special knowledge and experience are needed to design and build it. Even despite free access to drawings with orders for brick stoves for the home, you can’t do this without a specialist, and good stove craftsmen are in short supply.

For high-quality laying of stoves, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience Source fasaddomstroy.ru

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer installation services for fireplaces and stoves. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Which brick to choose for the stove

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature influences. Construction material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. The overall service life of the stove depends on the characteristics of the brick from which the stove will be made.

It is customary to mark bricks. One of the main indicators is density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will occur. To build a stove, you need bricks whose markings indicate strength grade M150-250, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. A strength grade that is too high may indicate the presence of substances in the brick that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next marking indicator is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. It plays an important role when choosing products used in laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking of bricks for stoves in comparison with other types of material Source iqlevsha.ru

Frost resistance implies the ability of a product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Hollow facing ones are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, you need solid red brick. Plastic molding is preferred. These products withstand temperature changes and do not crack even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

  • silicate and pressed bricks;
  • bricks made using the slip casting method;
  • unfired raw materials.

The maximum aging of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 °C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or to use them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

The Sh8 brand is suitable for the firebox (such bricks have straw- yellow and darkish inclusions). For the arch of the firebox, it is recommended to use fireclay products (W 22-Sh45). The only exception is sauna stoves where, due to high humidity, such bricks are contraindicated.

Sh8 brand refractory brick has a straw-yellow color Source pcentr.by

How to determine the optimal location of the furnace

The location in the house for the stove must be determined according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

  • area of ​​a residential building;
  • how many rooms should be heated;
  • what is a stove for and what type?
  • how gases will be removed during combustion;
  • the location of the stove must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional furnace or water heating system equipment will be required.

To heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen, a heating and cooking stove is used. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are heated by the heat-dissipating wall.

When building a house made of stone, you can immediately think about the placement of chimneys in the walls, which will increase the usable area of ​​the house and ensure optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of rooms, you need to think about the place where it can be most successfully placed so that the surfaces transferring heat from the stove allow for uniform and maximum heat distribution.

Options for placing the stove in the house Source pechnoy.guru

Typically, the place to place the firebox is a hallway or kitchen. If the stove is designed well, it is almost invisible in the house. It does not clutter up the living space and is in perfect harmony with all interior elements. For example, a combination option is often used. In one room there is one side of the building - a stove, and in the adjacent room, its second part is a fireplace. The chimney system is common.

A brick stove for a home cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. We should also not forget that the oven requires regular maintenance, which means that convenient approaches must be carefully thought through.

Furnace foundation

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

  • Furnace foundations are divided into the following types:
  • reinforced concrete;
  • pile;
  • pile-screw;
  • columnar;
  • made of blocks.

It is important! Whatever type of foundation the foundation belongs to, it must be created separately from the base of the house (except for a monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

  • The gravel-sandy soil type requires the preparation of a shallow foundation;
  • For clayey or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone cushion;

Differences between arranging the foundation for a brick and iron stove Source kaksdelatbanyu.ru

  • In the permafrost zone, a pile-screw foundation is used;
  • Dry rocky soils make it possible to get by with either a minimal base thickness or not use it at all;
  • The stove cannot be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick kiln:

  • Taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a pit is prepared.

    • The bottom is compacted with horizontal alignment. Crushed stone, broken brick and rubble stone are poured in an even layer. Tamping again.

    A solution is prepared (proportion 1:3). The embankment is filled with mortar;

  • Then there are three options:
  1. use a combination of crushed stone and cement;
  2. apply a frame made of reinforcement and then fill it with concrete;
  3. concrete is being poured reinforced slab, on which the foundation is made from bricks and poured concrete and rubble.

Move on to the next steps after all the used solution has dried.

  • Laying three-layer waterproofing.
  • Next, bricks are laid in rows.

Bricks that have been stored in the open air cannot be used in construction. Due to repeated freezing and getting wet, they become brittle, which will reduce the service life of the stove.

Video description

To see some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a stove, watch the video:

To fill the space between the stove foundation and the foundation of the house, use ordinary river sand.

The procedure for laying the furnace

How to properly build a stove in a house depends on the materials used and the chosen design, but the main stages of work are always the same:

  1. The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its flood part;
  2. Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;
  3. Laying the fire part;
  4. As soon as several rows are laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;
  5. The combustion door is installed. The combustion chamber is formed;
  6. A hob is placed on top of the combustion chamber;
  7. Continuation of masonry with the gradual design of a gas convector system;
  8. When the body of the stove is formed, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic doors are installed.

When choosing a door material for the stove, take into account the following points:

  • cast iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if the house likes to admire the play of flames;

Through the glass you can clearly see the fire burning in the oven. Source idei-landshafta.ru

  • All cast iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. Doors made of steel or glass are suitable for a wood-burning stove;
  • To avoid burns and protect children or pets from dangerous environments, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required.

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of laying brick stoves, according to the given scheme.

Rules for operating a brick stove

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you must follow certain operating rules:

  • The consistency of the stove's characteristics is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during fuel combustion.
  • The stove should be heated correctly. Heat loss when the blower is open reaches 15-20%. If the firebox door is open during combustion, all 40% will escape into the open air.
  • For the firebox, be sure to use dry firewood, prepared in advance. When using raw materials, less heat is generated and due to the formation of caustic condensation, the brick walls are destroyed.
  • Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately identical logs - from 8 to 10 cm thick.

Video description

To see the errors in the installation and operation of brick stoves, watch the video:

  • Laying firewood should be done leaving an empty space of 10 mm between them. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with intersections. The best option filling the firebox - 2/3. The gap between the firewood stack and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.
  • To ignite fuel, use ordinary paper, a torch, etc. Do not use flammable substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone.
  • As soon as the stove is lit, the view is covered a little, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.
  • The reference point when adjusting the draft during kindling is the color of the fire. A yellow flame color is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes straight into the chimney. Red flame - there is not enough air, the fuel burns partially, releasing harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as renovation work, it is best to organize it in the summer, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically assess the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad firewood or other reasons, contamination occurs much faster and additional cleaning will be required. When soot accumulates in best case scenario The thermal efficiency of the stove decreases, and in the worst case, all the smoke and carbon monoxide can go indoors.

Video description

For information on cleaning a brick oven, watch the following video:

The ash chamber and cleaning of the grates should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a valve, a view and a blower door serve to regulate the draft of the stove and its operating mode. Their functionality and integrity must be constantly monitored. As soon as problems arise or individual parts are worn out, the issue must be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If there is a stove in the house, then there is heat and home comfort. But regardless of the chosen brick stove design, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

Cooking stoves include kitchen stoves of various designs. They come in various sizes and are used only for cooking. Kitchen stoves are connected to main or top pipes.

Brick kitchen slabs

Based on their design, kitchen stoves can be divided into simple, medium and complex.

A simple kitchen stove has a combustion and blower doors, a grate and a smoke damper. It is the simplest of all household stoves.

Kitchen stoves of average complexity have, in addition to the above-mentioned stove appliances, an oven, and complex ones also have a hot water box. Ovens are made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm, and hot water boxes are made of galvanized steel. The casing of the water heating box is made of black steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. The thicker the steel, the more durable the devices.

Stove with two-burner stove and oven

In a simple cookstove, hot flue gases from the firebox are directed under the cast iron stove and then discharged through an opening under the chimney into the chimney.

In other kitchen stoves, hot flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove and then, descending, heat the walls of the oven or one wall of the water-heating box, and then are discharged into the pipe, while heating the bottom wall of the oven, the bottom and the other wall of the water-heating box.

The above-mentioned kitchen stoves do not have a cooking chamber, therefore, during cooking, steam and odor are released into the room, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. This article provides drawings of sections and ordering of a kitchen stove of an improved design, which has a cooking chamber connected to a pipe using a ventilation duct closed by a ventilation valve.

Simple kitchen stove

A simple kitchen stove has dimensions, mm: 1160x510x630 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).

To lay a kitchen stove, the following materials are required:

  • red brick - 120 pcs.;
  • red clay - 50 kg;
  • sand - 40 kg;
  • grate - 28×25 cm;
  • fire door - 25×21 cm;
  • blower door - 25×14 cm;
  • cast iron stove for two burners - 70×40 cm;
  • slab trim (angle 30x30x4 mm) -3.5 m;
  • roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1160×510 mm;
  • construction felt - 1 kg;

One stove maker can build a simple kitchen stove within 3 hours (not counting the laying of the chimney); in addition, it takes 1.5 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution. To erect a chimney, additional time is required: depending on its height, you need to calculate the time from calculation of half an hour per 1 m of pipe laying (when laying a pipe in a quarter of a brick).

The heat output of a simple kitchen stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.7-0.8 kW (660-700 kcal/h).

The figure below shows vertical and horizontal sections of a simple kitchen stove. Next, masonry drawings will be given in rows (orders). From the sections and drawings of the masonry along the rows it is clear that the masonry of a simple kitchen stove does not present any difficulties.

Sections of a simple kitchen stove: a - facade; b - section A-A (longitudinal vertical section of the furnace); c - section B-B (transverse vertical section). Designations: 1- firebox; 2 - ash chamber; 3 - grate; 4 - smoke valve; 5 - cast iron plate (flooring).

Before you start laying a simple kitchen stove, you should purchase the necessary stove equipment.

Having prepared the clay-sand mortar, proceed to laying a simple kitchen stove. If the slab is placed on a foundation, then level it upward. When laying the slab on wooden floor it is necessary to cut a sheet of roofing steel to the size of the slab. Place a layer of sheet asbestos on the floor, and if it is not available, two layers of construction felt, well soaked in a clay-sand solution, cover everything with a sheet of roofing steel and nail it to the floor. Then a platform is made from a whole brick in two rows of masonry on clay-sand mortar. After this, they begin laying the slabs from the first row strictly in order.

First row laid, observing the rules for bandaging seams from selected whole bricks, as indicated in the figure below. The completed masonry is checked for squareness.

First row of a simple kitchen stove

During laying second row arrange a ash pit, install a blow-off door, which is attached to the masonry using furnace wire. Temporarily, the blower door at the front can be supported by bricks, which are stacked on the floor in front of the blower door. The bottom of the ash chamber is 380×250 mm.

Second row of kitchen stove

Third row similar to the previous one, but the seams should be well bandaged.

Third row

Fourth row covers the ash door, leaving only a hole in the ash chamber measuring 250×250 mm, on which the grate is placed. If possible, it is advisable to lay masonry from the fourth row from fire bricks, as shown in the figure below.

Laying the fourth row. The shaded bricks are fireproof. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Fifth row forms a firebox measuring 510×250 mm. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off to form an inclined plane along which the fuel will roll onto the grate (see section B-B along A-A). When laying this row, you need to install a firebox door, having previously attached roofing steel legs to it using rivets.

Laying the fifth row of the furnace

Sixth row laid in the same way as the previous one, but the seams should be bandaged.

Laying the sixth row of the furnace

Seventh row placed according to the figure below. This is where a chimney is left under the stove, connecting the firebox to the chimney.

Seventh row of the oven

Eighth row performed strictly horizontally, with this row blocking the combustion door. A cast iron slab is laid on the eighth row laid out using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar. Factory-made cast iron slabs have protrusions or stiffeners on the bottom side that extend 15 mm from the edges of the slabs.

Eighth row of the oven

The internal dimensions of the eighth row of masonry must be such that the slab fits freely there with its ribs and has a gap on all sides of at least 5 mm, intended for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. If you do not comply with this, the cast iron stove, expanding, will destroy the stove masonry. To ensure that the masonry is strong, a frame made of angle steel is laid on the eighth row. It is advisable to cover the frame with fireproof varnish, which protects the steel from rust.

After laying ninth row Using a thin layer of clay-sand mortar, install a smoke damper. This row is the final one, followed by the laying of the chimney.

The final row of a simple kitchen stove

The kitchen stove works as follows. Flue gases from the firebox enter under the cast-iron stove, then through a hole under the pipe through a smoke valve they are discharged into the chimney.
The kitchen stove does not have a cleaning hole, since the chimney can be cleaned through the hole under the pipe, where it is easy to stick your hand through the burner of the cast-iron stove.

An example of laying a hob

Firstly, in a kitchen stove the fire door is installed at the same level as the grate. In the stove, flue gases are constantly maintained in the chimney high temperature, as a result of which it is not necessary to place thick fuel on the grate. Secondly, with this installation of the fire door, the distance from the grate to the cast iron stove will be only 280 mm, which makes it possible to quickly cook food even with low fuel consumption.

After finishing laying the furnace, it must be dried by opening the furnace and blower doors and the valve in the pipe.

The longer the oven dries, the stronger the masonry will be. The kitchen stove can be dried using small test fires, but after the test fires, the valve in the pipe and the blower door must be left open.

After complete drying, the kitchen stove is plastered with clay-sand mortar, followed by whitewashing.

Exterior finishing is best done as follows: after laying the eighth row and installing the cast iron slab, as well as before installing the corner steel frame, the kitchen slab is walled up on all sides in a case made of roofing steel (galvanized steel can be used). Pre-cut the corresponding holes according to the size of the combustion and blower doors. The case is secured to the floor using a plinth, which is nailed around the slab. The outer surface of the case is cleaned and coated with oven varnish, which can withstand high temperatures well.

In front of the combustion door, the pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor with nails 50 mm apart from one another. If the plinth was nailed earlier, then the pre-furnace sheet must be folded onto the plinth.

Kitchen stove with oven

The kitchen stove with oven has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x560 (without foundation, i.e. without two rows of brickwork on the floor).
To lay a kitchen stove with oven, the following materials are required:

  • red brick - 140 pcs.;
  • red clay - 60 kg;
  • sand - 50 kg;
  • grate - 26×25 cm;
  • fire door - 25×21 cm;
  • blower door - 14×25 cm;
  • cleaning doors 130×140 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • cast iron stove made of five composite plates measuring 53x18 cm with two burners;
  • smoke valve - 130×130 mm;
  • oven - 45x31x28 cm;
  • slab binding (angle 30x30x4 mm) - 4 m;
  • roofing steel pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm;
  • roofing steel sheet under the slab - 1290×640 mm;
  • construction felt - 1.2 kg;
  • metal box for collecting ash in the ash chamber - 350x230x100 mm.

One stove maker can put this stove together within 3-4 hours; in addition, it takes about 2 hours to carry the material and prepare the clay-sand solution. The heat transfer of the stove when cooking food twice a day is about 0.8 kW (770 kcal/h). The figure below shows a general view, longitudinal and cross sections of a kitchen stove with an oven. Below are the order drawings for each row. Laying a kitchen stove with an oven is also not difficult and is similar to laying a simple kitchen stove, but here you have to install an oven and cleaning doors.

Kitchen stove with oven: a - general view; b - sections A-A, B-B (vertical sections), B-C, D-G (horizontal sections). Designations: 1 - ash chamber; 2 - grate; 3 - firebox; 4 - cast iron plate; 5 - oven; 6 - smoke valve; 7 - combustion door; 8 - blower door; 9 - cleaning holes.

When laying slabs on an independent foundation, before starting work, level its top with a layer of clay-sand mortar.

When installing a slab on the floor, before starting to lay the first row, it is necessary to carry out the same work as when laying a simple kitchen stove.

Masonry first row made from selected whole bricks, strictly adhering to the rules of bandaging the seams. The length of the kitchen stove should correspond to the length of five bricks, the width - to the length of 2.5 bricks. Using a cord, check the equality of the diagonals.

Laying the first row of a kitchen stove with an oven

Second row laid out strictly following the order. Here an ash chamber measuring 380×250 mm is left, a blower door is installed and secured, and cleaning holes are left on the back wall (the width of the holes should be equal to the width of the brick, i.e. 12 cm). If possible, cleanout doors measuring 130×140 mm are installed. At the cleanout hole at the farthest from the ash chamber, a brick is laid on its edge, as shown in the masonry order. For better fastening ovens, in the middle of the place where it is installed, place half a brick on the edge.

Laying the second row of the slab

Third row similar to the previous one, only you must follow the rule of ligating the seams.

Laying the third row of the slab

Fourth row covers the blower and cleanout doors. After finishing the laying of the fourth row, an oven is installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar at a pre-marked place. After this, a grate is installed. With the same brick installed on the edge, the chimney into the chimney is blocked.

Laying the fourth row of the stove with oven

During laying fifth row The combustion door is installed and fastened, the brick is cut off before installation behind the grate so that the fuel gradually rolls onto the grate during the combustion process.

Laying the fifth row of the slab

Sixth row looks like the fifth one.

Laying the sixth row of the slab

Seventh row laid out in order. The resulting chimney channel from the front side is laid with three bricks, as a result of which the internal size of the resulting channel under the chimney will be 130 × 130 mm. In the image of this row near the oven, a steam pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 160 mm is visible, which connects the oven to the ascending duct. This pipe is designed to remove steam and odor.

Laying the seventh row of the stove with oven. The arrows indicate the direction of movement of hot flue gases in the heating furnace.

Eighth row perform strictly horizontally in level. This row covers the oven and the fire door. The upper wall of the oven is coated with a layer of clay mortar up to 10-
15 mm, which will protect the oven from rapid burning.

Laying the eighth row of a brick oven (before installing a cast iron stove)

In this case, it is necessary that the distance between the top of the clay coating and the cast iron plate is at least 70 mm. After this, a cast iron slab and lining made of angle steel are installed on a thin layer of clay-sand mortar.

Eighth row of brick oven (after installing the cast iron stove)

After laying ninth row All that remains is the laying of the vertical channel. The ninth row is placed according to the image below.

Ninth row of the oven

After laying tenth row install a smoke damper.

Tenth row of the oven

Masonry eleventh row start the chimney. Further laying of the pipe does not present any difficulties.

The final row of the furnace (the masonry of the chimney is not taken into account)

A kitchen stove and oven works like this. From the firebox, flue gases are directed under the cast-iron stove, from where they, heating the oven from behind on both sides, fall under the oven and are directed to the hole under the chimney. Rising through a vertical channel, they enter the chimney through a smoke valve and are released into the atmosphere.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box

To lay a kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box measuring 1290x640 mm, the same materials are required as for the previous stove. Additionally, you should purchase a water heating box measuring 510x280x120 mm.

The figure below shows a general view, a horizontal section along A-A and a vertical section along B-B of the slab.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box: a - general view; b - cuts. Definitions: 1 - firebox; 2 - cast iron plate; 3 - oven; 4 - water heating box; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ash chamber; 7 - angle steel harness

A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box is placed in the same order as a kitchen stove with an oven. The only difference is that after laying the third row, instead of a brick partition, a water-heating box in a case is installed on the edge between the oven and the vertical channel. The height of the hot water box should correspond to the height of four rows of flat brickwork. The rest of the masonry is completely similar to the masonry of a kitchen stove with an oven.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design

In rural areas, kitchen stoves are used not only to prepare food for people, but also to cook feed for livestock and boil laundry when washing. During combustion, a lot of steam enters the room and foreign substances are released unpleasant odors. Because of this, the air humidity in the room increases, which negatively affects its microclimate. Therefore, to remove foreign odors and steam from kitchen stoves, it is advisable to provide a cooking chamber, which is connected to the chimney using a ventilation duct. A ventilation valve must be installed in the ventilation duct.

Installation double door in the cooking chamber allows you to keep food hot for a long time and thus prevent it from souring.

Cooking chamber in a brick oven

The firebox and ash chamber (ash chamber) are closed from the outside with appropriate doors. Top surface oven protect from hot gases with a layer of clay mortar 10-12 cm thick. It is advisable to lay the kitchen stove from the fourth to the ninth row from refractory bricks (especially the firebox).

An example of covering an ash pit

It is advisable to make the kitchen slab up to the ninth row of masonry from sheet steel, and to enhance its strength, after installing the frame on a clay-sand mortar, install a frame made of angle steel. Since the mass of such a slab will be more than one ton, it is installed on an independent foundation.

If it is impossible to construct an independent foundation, the floor must be strengthened with additional beams, which are mounted on brick columns. Instead of brick pillars, you can use pillars made of hardwood logs, reinforced concrete pillars, iron pipes with a cross-section of at least 180-200 mm.

The kitchen stove has an improved design and is equipped with a “direct” valve. During prolonged heating of the stove, evaporation of water in the water heating box is possible. To stop this, you need to add a little cold water into it and open the “direct” valve. In this case, the flue gases from under the cast iron stove do not go down, but immediately go into the chimney. As a result, the water heating box stops warming up and the evaporation of water in it stops.

Example of a “direct” valve

To make it easier to clean the ash chamber from ash, a special roofing steel box measuring 350x230x100 mm is installed in it. This prevents contamination of the room when cleaning the ash chamber from ash.

A kitchen stove of this design has the following advantages compared to the previous kitchen stove with oven and hot water box:

  • during cooking, steam and foreign odors do not enter the room, which are removed into the atmosphere through the ventilation hole;
  • food cooked on the stove in the cooking chamber remains hot for a long time and does not sour during the day;
  • With the help of a “direct” valve, it is possible to cook food without warming up the water heating box and thereby preventing further evaporation of the water in it.

The figure below shows a general view of the kitchen stove from the front; here are also drawings of sections of the stove in the most difficult places. Layout drawings along the rows will follow, and they give a comprehensive idea of internal structure slabs Using the orders and drawings for the rows, you can fold the slab yourself, without the help of a stove maker.

Kitchen stove with oven and hot water box of improved design: a - facade; b - sections A-A, B-B, c - sections B-C, D-G, D-D, E-E. Definitions: 1 - blower door; 2 - combustion door; 3 - oven; 4 - cooking chamber door; 5 - smoke valve; 6 - ventilation valve; 7 - “direct” valve; 8 - water heating box; 9 - cleaning holes; 10 - cast iron stove.

A kitchen stove with an oven and a hot water box of improved design has dimensions, mm: 1290x640x1330.

The following materials are required for masonry:

  • red brick - 250 pcs.;
  • fireproof brick - 80 pcs.;
  • red clay - 180 kg;
  • sand - 90 kg;
  • combustion door - 250×210 mm;
  • blower door - 250×140 mm;
  • grate - 280×250 mm;
  • oven measuring 250x280x450 mm;
  • cast iron stove with two burners - 700×400 mm;
  • water heating box - 250x140x510 mm;
  • pre-furnace sheet - 500×700 mm;
  • strip steel measuring 400x250x6 mm;
  • door to the cooking chamber - 750x350x5 mm;
  • corner steel for tying a slab measuring 30x30x3 mm - 4.1 m;
  • strip steel for covering the cooking chamber measuring 450x45x4 mm - 4 pcs.

A stove can be assembled by one stove-maker in 18-20 hours; preparing the solution and carrying the material requires an additional 6 hours.

To fold the stove with the firebox on the left side, you need to look at the drawings using a mirror placed edge-on on the drawing.

The kitchen stove is laid out as follows. Masonry first row produced on a foundation built to floor level. The first row determines the main dimensions of the slab. The length of the slab is equal to the length of a laying of five bricks in clay-sand mortar, and the width is equal to the length of 2.5 bricks.

First row of improved cooker with oven and hot water box

During laying second row two cleaning doors and a blower door are installed in front. They are attached to the masonry using furnace wire.

Laying the second row of the furnace; 1 - blower door, 9 - cleaning holes.

Masonry third row produced according to the order, it is similar to the previous row. After laying the third row, a water heating box is installed.

Laying the third row of the furnace; 11 - steel sheet 3 mm thick.

Firebox fourth row they are laid from refractory brick; in its absence, sorted first-class red brick is used. The fourth row covers the cleaning holes and the blower door, forming the beginning of the hearth. After laying the fourth row, the grate and oven are installed.

Laying the fourth row of the furnace

Masonry fifth row presents no difficulties. The brick adjacent to the back of the grate is cut off halfway to form an inclined plane.

Laying the fifth row of the furnace; 3 - oven.

Before masonry sixth row prepare the combustion door, for which strip steel is attached to the top and bottom with rivets, which should be 10 cm longer than the combustion door on both sides. For greater strength, the ends of the strip steel are screwed with furnace wire, the ends of which are embedded in the masonry. The door is installed on a clay-sand mortar, having previously wrapped the frame of the combustion door with asbestos fiber.

Laying the sixth row

Masonry seventh row secure the base of the combustion door.

Laying the seventh row

Eighth row blocks the water heating box.

Eighth row masonry

Ninth row covers the fire door and oven. The top of the oven is protected from burning through a layer of clay mortar 10-12 mm thick. It is advisable to lay this row entirely of refractory bricks.

Ninth row masonry

After finishing the laying of the ninth row, a cast iron slab is installed above the firebox on a clay-sand mortar. The large burner of the stove is placed above the firebox. Next to the main plate, an additional one is placed, made of a steel sheet measuring 400x200x6 mm. After this, angle steel is laid, to which the lower frame of the cooking chamber door is welded. For strength, it is advisable to tie the angle steel through special holes in it with furnace wire, which is attached to the masonry.

Installation of a cast iron stove on the ninth row; 12 - steel sheet 6 mm thick; 13 - angular steel.

Tenth row They are made of ordinary red brick. WITH right side leave a window for cleaning the “direct” channel. Some of the bricks that cover the slab are cut with a pick before laying so that if the slab breaks, it can be easily replaced.

Laying the tenth row

Masonry eleventh row does not present any difficulties, you just need to follow the rules for dressing the seams.

Eleventh oven row

Twelfth row blocks the cleaning window.

Twelfth row of the oven

After laying Tthirteenth row a “direct” valve is installed on the clay-sand solution.

Thirteenth row of the oven; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry fourteenth row must correspond to the level of the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber. Angle steel measuring 45x45x800 mm is installed next to the upper frame of the door to the cooking chamber.

Fourteenth row of the oven

Fifteenth row blocks the door to the cooking chamber.

Fifteenth oven row

Sixteenth row blocks the “direct” channel.

Laying the sixteenth row of a kitchen stove

Masonry seventeenth row provides a ventilation duct to remove odors and steam from the cooking chamber.

Laying the seventeenth row of the kitchen stove

After finishing the masonry eighteenth row Four pieces of strip steel measuring 4x45x500 mm are installed above the cooking chamber to cover the cooking chamber.

Laying the eighteenth row of a kitchen stove

Nineteenth row covers the cooking chamber. After finishing the laying of this row, a ventilation valve is installed.

Laying the nineteenth row of the kitchen stove; 6 - ventilation valve.

Masonry twentieth and twenty-first rows is not difficult, you just need to bandage the seams well.

Laying the twentieth row of a kitchen stove

Laying the twenty-first row

Masonry twentysecond row reduces the size of the chimney, it will be 130x130 mm.

Laying the twenty-second row

Twenty-three and twenty-four ranks put in order.

Twenty-third row of the oven

Twenty-fourth row

After laying twenty fifth row install a smoke damper, which is also a control valve.

Laying the twenty-fifth row of the furnace; 5 - smoke valve.

Masonry twenty-sixth row start the chimney. Laying a chimney is not difficult.

Laying the final row (not counting the chimney)

After finishing the laying of the stove, before coating it, clean the chimneys from fallen mortar and crushed stone residues through cleaning holes. Holes for cleaning are then filled with brick halves in clay-sand mortar.

When installing the cleaning doors, they are closed tightly, and leaks are covered with clay-sand mortar.

After this, the stove can be dried in two ways: by opening the combustion and blower doors and valves, or by using small test fires. After complete drying, the slab is plastered with clay-sand mortar, and after drying the plaster, whitewashing is performed twice. A pre-furnace sheet is nailed to the floor in front of the fire door.

Do-it-yourself brick oven: step-by-step instruction masonry + photo