Brick stove: design rules, masonry features and drawings. Review of small and compact wood-burning stoves for summer cottages Types of brick stoves for summer cottages

Brick kilns are a source of healthy atmosphere and fresh air(due to draft and constant renewal of air in the room), there is no need for additional installation radiators, such structures accumulate heat well and warm the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very good for health.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all instructions, follow masonry technology, monitor the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the stove is in the center of the house.

• Heating;
• For cooking (predecessors of modern stoves);
• Cooking and heating (combination of the two previous models);
• Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

It is advisable to carry out construction in the summer, when constant temperature air.

For construction you will need: 220 bricks, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, we must build a foundation. We select the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and level groundwater. We wait for the foundation to completely harden and begin construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended to lay out the stove without mortar as a practice to avoid mistakes in the future. We will number the rows along the course of the laying for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak the bricks in water.

1. We lay out the first two rows according to the drawing, continuous. To do this you will need 10 bricks for each row.
2. In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we attach it to wire and special metal fasteners).
3. 4: we build this row, checking the order, building up the walls.
4. 5: building brick floor above the blower door, we lay the grate (don’t forget to leave a small gap from metal grating grate to the brickwork, pour sand into the gap).
5. Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the combustion door. We build the sixth row, clamping the door fastening with bricks.
6. The seventh and eighth row - we build up the walls, observing the order, again checking the drawing.
7. In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating a ceiling above it. In this row we begin to build a smoke collector and finish it by the eleventh row.
8. To separate the cooking area and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on edge. We fix the cast iron hob (row number 12).
9. From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row we lay out the bricks “on edge”. We cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
10. Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
11. In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we install a cleaning door and build up the walls of the oven.
12. Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
13. The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace by tying the previous row).
14. The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
15. After this, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we carry out the masonry according to the drawing. In rows 27 and 28 we leave space between the bricks to clean the oven.
16. Then we completely cover the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
17. From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and take the chimney to the street.

How to light a brick stove with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If there are any, cover them with a clay solution. We clean the stove from combustion products. We prepare the firewood. We warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the ash door ajar for air access. To ensure even burning of the firewood, stir it with a poker as it burns. It is optimal to add additional firewood after the formation of the first coals.

Making a wood-burning stove for your home: Instructions for building a brick stove

This stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of ​​30-40 sq.m.

The stove has three smoke channels located vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two firing modes - summer and winter.

For work we purchase:

• solid ceramic bricks grade M175 - 400 pieces;
• fireproof bricks – 20 pieces (ШБ8);
• two-burner cast iron stove 70x40 cm;
• valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
• fire door 27x30 cm;
• 2 blower doors 15x16 cm;
• masonry tools (trowels, containers for mortars, etc.).

We build a foundation for the furnace and begin laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it determines the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is no more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fireproof cutting.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install the ash door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future we will line the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we fasten the cleaning door and form the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we cover the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we overlap the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see two vertical smoke channels of 12x12 cm being formed.

Let's designate the left channel as number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one as number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the stove in winter). The dimensions of the release channel are 25X12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form the channels and install the combustion door.

Eighth row: we tie row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the oven.

We install the summer valve. If it is opened, the smoke will flow directly into the chimney without overheating the room. If the valve is closed, the flue gases will enter channel number 3 and travel along a long path, heating the entire furnace structure and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We are preparing a support for installing the locking cover of the fire door.

Tenth row: close the combustion door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. Here the transition of flue gases from the second channel to the first will occur when firing in winter mode.

We cut out slots for the grate from fireclay bricks and place them inside the oven. We insulate the back wall with mineral wool.

Brick stoves for a wood-burning house in some situations are a necessity, since they may be the only way to heat a residential building due to the lack of gas supply and in order to save electricity. However, very often stoves are installed additionally, as they can not only save the family budget from unnecessary expenses, but also bring comfort to the house, providing it with special healing warmth.

Despite the emergence of various modern species heating, brick ovens remain in demand today. This encourages both engineers and craftsmen to continue working on new designs, which is why more and more advanced, functional and heat-intensive heating structures appear.

Models brick kilns– there are quite a lot, and choosing the right one from them will not be difficult. But at the same time, it is necessary to take into account several important conditions that are mandatory for the effective and safe operation of this home assistant - a real stove.

Variety of furnace designs

Brick stoves, according to their functionality, can be divided into three main categories: cooking, heating-cooking and heating structures, for example. In addition to them, there are also multifunctional options, including a fireplace, a hot water tank and even a water circuit - for heating an area larger than the building itself can heat alone. Therefore, if you decide to install a brick stove in your house, first of all you need to decide on the choice of model.

• The cooking version of the stove is usually chosen for installation in dacha conditions, if the owners live there only during the summer season. Sometimes such a stove is installed in a private home in addition to gas or electric heating - in order to save fuel, which is more expensive than wood. A hob is usually equipped with a hob, an oven, and sometimes a hot water tank. It usually has a fairly compact size, but is still capable of heating the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself will not take up much space.

A heating and cooking stove is a whole multifunctional complex

• A heating and cooking stove is a complex that may include several functions necessary for everyday use - this includes a hob, an oven, a tank for heating water, niches for drying plant products, a stove bench, a fireplace, and sometimes a water circuit. This design will help out in any situation, so it is most often installed in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, they are often in no hurry to abandon such stoves even if there is a gas heating boiler in the house.

• The heating stove is intended only for heating a house or bathhouse. Not included in the design hob and an oven, but a water heating tank can be built in and a fireplace function can be present. Such a stove can heat two or even three small rooms, if properly installed in the walls between rooms.

In addition to the functional purpose, it is necessary to decide on the shape and size of the stove. This criterion will depend on the layout of the house and the area that can be allocated for its installation. You also need to take into account the heat capacity of the structure, that is, an indicator that determines how much area the selected stove can heat.

Thus, large ovens with thick walls are able to distribute heat to large area, but the duration of their fire to achieve heating is about 1.5÷2 hours. Compact, small-sized stoves heat up and release heat much faster, approximately within 35-40 minutes. Moreover, in order to heat them, less fuel is required, which means they are more economical. Therefore, when choosing a model, you must definitely find out its power characteristics and what area they are designed for.

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Choosing a location for installing a brick kiln

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location would be to be built into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of ​​the house, you can get by with one heating structure, if the heat-transferring surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they open.

The location chosen for construction must be carefully measured and some points taken into account:

• The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick stove must fit well into the space in terms of its height.
• The foundation for the furnace must be 110÷120 mm larger than its base, and an area of ​​suitable size must also be provided for it.
• When laid upward, the chimney pipe should not collide with the floor beams or rafter legs roofing structure.

Basic materials and components for laying a brick oven

In addition to bricks and mortar, other materials and elements will be required to build a stove. Their nomenclature, quantity and size will depend on the selected model of the heating structure.

So, the following cast iron components may be required for a brick stove:

1 – door of the ash pan (blower);

2 – combustion door;

3 – doors for installation on cleaning channels;

4 – chimney duct valve;

5 – burner rings installed on the hob holes;

6 – hob;

7 – grate.

In addition to cast iron, you will need to prepare some steel parts or assemblies that are included in the design of the stove. It could be:

1. Oven.
2. Hot water tank.
3. Metal strips of different lengths and widths.
4. A metal corner, most often measuring 50x50 mm.
5. Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm.
6. Steel sheet for decking in front of the firebox.
7. Roofing iron - sometimes required to cover the cooking chamber.

For the masonry itself, you will need materials that are selected in accordance with the masonry diagram and the list (table) usually attached to it:

1. Red brick.
2. Fireclay brick.
3. The components for clay mortar are sand and clay, or ready-made heat-resistant clay, sold in specialized stores.
4. Materials for the foundation - they can be different: crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, rubble stone, boards for formwork, roofing felt for waterproofing.
5. Asbestos sheet and cord.

Marking and arrangement of the foundation

It is impossible to begin work on laying the furnace if a reliable foundation has not been created for this structure, since the structure will turn out to be very massive.

• First, there is a marking of the place where the base for the stove will be installed - the foundation. It should be taken into account that the chimney pipe, when passing through attic floor must pass at a distance of no less than 120÷150 mm from wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floor boards will be cut for the foundation, a plumb line is used, which is fixed to the ceiling at the required distance from the floor beam. After the plumb line stops, a mark is made on the floor at one of the corners of the stove. Also, the remaining corner parts are marked with dots, and then the resulting plan is verified building level and a corner. Next, you should draw on the floor the shape of the future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than the stove base by at least 100 - 150 mm in each direction). Based on the resulting markings, the floor boards will be cut out so as to reach the ground.

Here it should be immediately noted that the foundation of the stove and the house should not be common. Moreover, they should not be connected. The shrinkage of the foundations of the stove and the house itself are different, and it may turn out that with a connected foundation, one building will pull another along with it.

• Next, the floor boards are cut out and dismantled, and a pit is dug in the exposed soil with a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the earth.
• The foundation can be made of rubble stone or brick. If the base is built from rubble stone, then installation of formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay the dirt-free stone in layers, each of which is filled with concrete mortar. It is very important to ensure that there are no unfilled voids between the masonry stones.

• The masonry above the ground continues in the formwork, made in the form of a box, the boards of which must be tightly fitted to each other. To ensure that the solution dries evenly and the liquid is not absorbed into the wood of the formwork, it is recommended to cover it from the inside with thick polyethylene, which is secured with staples on the boards.
• The foundation must be 140 mm below the finished floor level.
• The surface of the rubble-cement base is leveled for the next stage of work.
• Next, two rows of brickwork are installed on a flat and dry surface, and after the mortar has dried, two layers of roofing material are laid on it, which acts as waterproofing.

It is also quite possible to have the foundation slab completely poured into the formwork, with the installation of a steel reinforcing structure. True, the consumption of concrete solution in this case will be much higher.

Preparing bricks for masonry work

As you know, the main material for laying a furnace is red brick of normal firing. Well, the walls and bottom of the firebox are laid out from fireproof fireclay material. You can, of course, use selected red brick for the combustion chamber, but you need to take into account that its service life is much shorter than fire-resistant brick.

First of all, the purchased brick must be carefully sorted and those that have significant cracks and chips must be rejected. If used brick is used for masonry, it must be cleaned of soot and old mortar.

The prepared red brick is soaked in water for at least 12–14 hours. Fireclay only needs to be rinsed with water before use to remove dust.

The preparation process also includes splitting bricks into pieces, since when laying a furnace, not only whole bricks are needed, but also halves, ¾ - three-quarters, ¼ - quarters and even sometimes smaller fragments. To make it easier to determine the parts of the brick by size, the handle of the pick-hammer is measured and notches are made corresponding to the size of half, ¼ or ¾ of its part.

To obtain the fragmentary parts necessary for masonry, the brick is split or chipped. Hewing is carried out if it is necessary to have a brick cut at an angle.

For hewing, bricks that do not have cracks are taken. To do everything correctly, you need to take the brick with your left hand and, holding it in weight, use a pick to mark the area on its edges that needs to be cut off.

The marking is applied at an angle along the marked line. Then the corners are chipped off by hitting the sides of the brick. Hewn surfaces will turn out rough, and in order to bring them to an even, smooth state, they are rubbed in with bricks.

To split a brick into even pieces (this process is called pinning by stove makers), you need to take quality brick no cracks. The pinning process is also carried out by weight.

If a brick needs to be divided in half, it is also taken in left hand, and the part that needs to be separated is measured on it. Then, along the tongue side of the brick, a shallow groove is made along the marked line. After this, the brick is turned over with the groove down, and a sharp blow is applied to it with a hammer strike in the area of ​​the intended line.

Brick splitting techniques - 2

If it is necessary to separate less than half of a whole brick, then a groove is made at the site of the future split on all sides of the brick. In this case, it splits with a strong blow to the furrow on one of the spoon sides. If necessary, you can break off the corner part in the same way.

If you need to split a brick not across, but lengthwise, then the marking is carried out along its narrow side, and the groove along the marking is made deeper, since it splits along the brick much more difficult and can crumble.

If you need to round the corners of a brick, you will need a special tool - this could be a machine or a grinder with a stone wheel.

Preparation of masonry mortar

A very important stage of work can be called the preparation of clay mortar, which is used when laying the main mass of the furnace. You also need to know that clay mortar is not suitable for constructing a chimney or arranging a foundation. For this purpose, concrete mixtures are more often used, or several parts of cement are added to the clay solution.

The masonry furnace seam should not exceed 8 mm in thickness, otherwise cracks will appear on it, and through them oxygen can penetrate into the structure, which will reduce the efficiency of the furnace. In addition, during heating, water may leak into the room. carbon monoxide, which is extremely dangerous for human health and even life. Therefore, the solution must be prepared from high-quality clay and sifted fine sand with a grain fraction of no more than 1 mm. The solution should be homogeneous, without lumps or foreign inclusions.

Clay solutions are divided into lean, normal and fatty. Their quality directly depends on the correctly selected clay.

• Thin solutions are not plastic, are fragile and crumble heavily.
• Normal mixtures have the correct proportions and consist of medium-fat clay and sifted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically do not crack after complete drying, do not shrink strongly and do not change their volume. Therefore they will be the most suitable option for stove masonry.
• Fatty solutions are plastic, but tend to crack when drying. But this mixture composition can be corrected by “thinning” it by adding sand.

The correct thickness of the clay solution is no less important than plasticity. Therefore, the consistency of the masonry mixture should resemble medium-thick dough, and when compressed between two wet bricks, it should be easily squeezed out under their weight.

Before mixing the solution, you must check the quality of the clay. The process of checking the finished solution can be carried out in three ways, but first it must be made using the method of selecting ingredients - clay and sand in proportions.

Usually several versions of the solution are prepared in small quantities. Each solution contains different proportions:

• Pure clay without added sand.
• Clay 90%, sand 10%.
• Clay 75%, sand 25%.
• Clay 25%, sand 75%.

The solutions are mixed well with the addition of water until the consistency of a thick dough that does not stick to your hands. Then you can move on to testing it.

A. From each solution option, balls with a diameter of 35÷40 mm and plates with a thickness of 15÷25 mm are made. All these products are left to dry at room temperature for 7÷9 days.

After this time, a check must be carried out. Those products that gave fewer cracks, and the balls thrown from a height of 1000 mm onto the floor did not disintegrate, have the required proportions for stove masonry.

You can compress the solution, rolled into balls, between two wooden plates to a thickness of 7 mm and leave to dry at room temperature. The solution that will produce fewer cracks is selected.

B. Another testing option that does not require a long wait is the tensile test. To do this, flagella 10÷15 mm thick and 120÷170 mm long are made from solutions with different proportions. Then the flagella try to stretch. The mixture will be suitable if the rope breaks, stretching at the point of break to a thickness of 2–3 mm.

IN. The third option would be to roll the prepared solutions into a rope and roll it around a round wooden stick with a diameter of 40÷50 mm. The solution from which the rope is made, which gave fewer cracks when drying and remained intact, is perfect for masonry work.

Having chosen the optimal solution in proportions, it must be kneaded correctly.

• The clay is soaked for one to two days, and then, while wet, is rubbed through a sieve made of a metal mesh with cells of 3 ÷ 3.5 mm.
• The sand is sifted.
• Next, the required amount of clay and sand is measured out according to the experimentally determined proportions, and then thoroughly mixed until smooth.

A properly prepared solution does not lose its adhesive properties indefinitely. If it dries out, just add liquid to it and mix well again.

For laying fireclay bricks, a special solution is prepared, consisting of pure clay and fireclay sand in 1:1 proportions.

Price for masonry mixture for stoves

masonry mixture for stoves

General recommendations for laying a brick oven

After the foundation has gained the necessary strength, and the bricks, mortar, metal and cast iron parts have been prepared, you can proceed to marking the first row and the masonry itself.

• Marking the first row.

On a waterproofing sheet (roofing felt), laid on the foundation with an indentation from its edge, the bricks of the first row are laid dry around the perimeter. First, corner bricks are installed, then intermediate bricks along the perimeter; a gap of 5÷6 mm must be left between them, which will be filled with mortar during the test laying. Angles are measured according to the building level and angle. To make sure that the row is laid out evenly, use a tape measure to measure its diagonals - they must have the same length.

The geometry of the first row is extremely important for the entire furnace structure, so measurements must be carried out with the highest possible accuracy. In order not to get lost when performing the control laying, the row laid out dry should be outlined with chalk.

• Checking row horizontality.

Next, the row is laid out on the solution. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the first, corner brick, and a thicker layer to the second. Then, a building level is installed on the two laid bricks, which is used to press on the second brick, thereby achieving their alignment in a perfectly horizontal plane. In the same way, 3 and 4 bricks are laid out and so on according to the scheme.

• Carrying out masonry.

In order for the masonry to be even at the corners of the stove, vertical plumb cords are pulled from the outer sides, which are attached to the ceiling and floor. If the stove is being built by a master for the first time, instead of cords it is best to install formwork bars from the ceiling to the floor. They are set to the building level and securely fixed in the correct position.

At this stage, using a trowel or spatula, the solution is applied to the first laid out row in a layer of 9÷10 mm.

A corner brick is laid on top of it. Then the mortar is applied to the end side of the second brick and also leveled. The second brick is laid in the place prepared for it, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a hammer. The solution that appears between the rows is selected with a trowel. In this case, it is advisable to carefully clean the bricks immediately so that the mortar does not have time to set.

If you are not sure that the seams will be the same, you can use plastic or wooden calibrator slats with a thickness equal to the required thickness of the seam. Such calibration devices are placed on the finished row before installing the next one. You need to prepare enough such slats so that there are enough of them for three rows. Having laid out these rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam and transferred to the top one - and so on until the very top of the structure being built.

If finishing material is not applied to the walls of the furnace, then the seams are carefully processed with a special tool called “jointing”.

Processing seams for jointing

It is very important to take into account that the next row of stove masonry should begin only after the previous one is completely completed. No “ladders” are allowed.

The horizontality of each row is necessarily controlled by the building level.

So that the heated air, circulating through the internal channels, does not encounter obstacles in the form of protruding solution, and smoothly slides along the walls from the combustion chamber to the chimney pipe, the solution must also be removed from the internal walls. This process can be carried out using a sponge brush, which is used to rub in the unset solution, moistening it with water if necessary. Such grouting is carried out upon completion of the laying of every 4-5 rows or if it is necessary to install a vertical ceiling that will close the oven cavity.

If you plan to finish the oven externally, then use plaster mortar, consisting of clay, lime and sand in proportions 1:1:3. For heat resistance, 0.2÷0.3 parts of crushed asbestos are added to this composition. True, existing modern sanitary standards do not encourage the use of asbestos in residential premises.

• Floor installation.

There are quite a lot of different ceilings in the design of any furnace, and they all have their own characteristics, depending on the area of ​​their arrangement.

So, when covering the door of the fuel chamber and the internal openings of the furnace, it is advisable to do this without metal parts.

If a model is selected that has an arched ceiling of the cooking chamber, then the arch is constructed using a special formwork that has a semicircular shape. This formwork is called “circling”.

The laying of arched vaults is carried out with the obligatory bandaging of the seams, which means that there is always an odd number of rows in the vault. In the lower part of the arch, the seams should be perfectly straight and have a thickness of no more than 5 mm.

The vault is laid out from the bottom to the top of the arch, first on one side of the circle, then on the second, and only after that the central final locking row is laid out.

• Installation of stove cast iron and metal elements.

All metal elements of the furnace, as is known, expand when heated, so thermal gaps must be formed around them, which are created using asbestos material. In some cases, asbestos cord is used, in others, strips of the required width and length are cut from a single sheet of this material. Thus, the door of the combustion chamber and the oven are wrapped with asbestos cord, and strips are laid under the hob.

The metal doors are secured to the masonry joints using wire twists. On the back wall of the metal door frame there are always special “ears” into which the wire is inserted, and then its ends are twisted together.

The wire attached to the lower “ears” is embedded in the seams of the row on which the door is installed, and the upper twists are placed between the rows, one of which will be located on the same level as the top of the door frame, and the second above it.

Before fastening in the seams, the door is aligned to the building level or using a plumb line.

The blower and cleaning door does not require wrapping with asbestos cord, since it does not heat up to very high temperatures. The gaps between them and the brick can be sealed with clay mortar.

If a metal strip is to be used to cover the fire door, then a gasket of asbestos strip must be made between it and the frame.

The smoke valve frame is also mounted on a clay mortar, but this work must be carried out carefully so that the solution does not fall into the grooves of the frame along which the valve must move.

Drying the finished oven

Upon completion of the construction of the furnace, under no circumstances should you heat it immediately at full power, otherwise the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, you first need to dry it, which is carried out in the following order:

• All doors and valves in the oven are opened, and in this state it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the ambient air temperature. In this case, excess moisture from the mortar and the bricks themselves will evaporate naturally.

Forced drying is undesirable, but it has to be used if, say, the temperature outside is not high enough for the solution to dry out properly. To do this, place a regular 200÷300 W electric light bulb inside the combustion chamber and leave it burning for the entire drying period, which will last from 6 to 10 days.

• After this time, the stove begins to be heated with a small amount of wood chips or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and adding 0.2 kg to this amount daily. This process is carried out over approximately 10 days. Well, after this you can begin to fully fire the well-dried structure.

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Heating and cooking stove "Swedish" with a stove bench

General characteristics and required materials

This subsection of the publication will present the order of laying a heating and cooking stove equipped with a stove bench. This model of the fundamental “Swedish” type was developed by engineer G. Reznik. The design of such a furnace can be called one of the most popular, since it is distinguished by a simple configuration of internal channels, relatively small dimensions and its high functionality. In addition, the “Swedish” stove, which has a compact size, has a higher efficiency compared to the Russian stove, which occupies a fairly large area of ​​the house.

Heating and cooking stove of the Swedish type, with a warm stove bench, designed by G. Reznik

The “Swede” of this design is convenient in all its parameters. So, if it is installed in a wall between two rooms, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom, then a large area of ​​the heated wall will warm the living space, and the warm one can well serve as a sleeping place. The kitchen will acquire a convenient hob and drying chambers suitable for various needs, for example, for storing dried vegetables, fruits, and medicinal herbs for the winter. Moreover, drying will take place under natural conditions, at temperatures optimal for this purpose.

The dimensions of the stove, considering its functional qualities, are quite compact and amount to 765 × 1145 mm (3 × 4.5 bricks) at the base. The dimensions of the bed are 635x1785 mm (2.5x7 bricks). The total height of the structure excluding the mounted pipe is 1890 mm, so it is suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings. With these parameters, the heat transfer from the structure is 3500 W, and the stove is capable of heating the premises with total area up to 35 square meters.

The design provides two operating modes - “winter”, when all sections of the stove are heated, and “summer”, which allows you to use only the hob and chamber.

The fuel chamber is lined with fireclay bricks, which increases the reliability and durability of the structure.

The following materials and metal parts are required for masonry:

Name of material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Quantity in pieces (kg)
Tempered Red Brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Fireclay fire-resistant brick	Ш-8	139 pcs.
Clay	fat	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
Hob	310 x 650	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415	1 PC.
Fire door	210 x 250	1 PC.
Cleaning door	70 x 130	5 pieces.
Blower door	140 x 250	1 PC.
Smoke damper	130 x 250	1 PC.
"Summer run" valve	130 x 250	1 PC.
Steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375	1 PC.
Pre-furnace sheet	500 x 700	1 PC.

In addition, you need to stock up on a sheet of asbestos and a cord made from the same material - to create thermal gaps between the metal elements and the brick. You will also need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm - for fastening cast iron and steel structural parts.

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The process of laying a Swedish stove with a stove bench

To begin with, here are a few illustrations that will help you better understand the intricacies of the stove design:

You can move on to practical masonry. The table similarly describes each laid out row, indicating its nuances:

Illustration with order diagram	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be laid out perfectly horizontally, respecting the straight outer and inner corners of the masonry.
	Second row - 73 bricks. The row is also continuous, but smaller than the previous one in size by 50 mm on each side. In places where the blower and cleaning doors will be installed, cutouts are made along the edge of the brick, 20 mm deep, like a niche. They are needed for the convenience of subsequent installation of cast iron elements (shown by an arrow).
	Next, on the same row, cleaning doors 130x70 mm and ash doors 140x250 mm are installed. Instead of cleaning doors, some stove makers install halves of bricks, which are laid without mortar.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ fireclay bricks. This row is also smaller than the previous one along the perimeter, but this time when carrying out work, you need to focus on the dimensions indicated in the order. On this row, a horizontal channel of the stove itself and the stove bench, as well as a blower (ash) chamber, is formed. Another chamber is formed in the central part of the oven, which will not be used; it is needed to retain heat for a longer time. The brick on the left side of the blower chamber from above is cut obliquely (shown by an arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ fireclay bricks. The bricks installed on the left side of the blower chamber are cut diagonally (shown by the yellow arrow). The ash door is placed on top with two steel strips measuring 50x5x360 mm (shown by a green arrow).
	Fifth row - 30 red and 16½ fireclay bricks. Cutouts are made in the bricks above the ash chamber (shown by arrows) - a seat for a grate measuring 240x415 mm.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central chamber is laid across with four steel strips measuring 50x5x250 mm (shown by the yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this chamber can be filled with sand and stones, but it can also be left hollow. The cast iron grate is put in place (shown by the green arrow).
	Sixth row. This row will require 32 ½ red and 18 fireclay bricks. The horizontal channel will become the base for the vertical chimney. The space under the bed is divided into 7 parts. The walls of the furnace fuel chamber are formed around the grate.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 fireclay bricks. The vertical chimney is reduced to 190x130 mm by laying it with bricks. At the same stage, the combustion chamber door 210×250 mm is installed (shown by the arrow).
	Eighth row. It is laid out in accordance with the pattern of 38 red and 12 fireclay bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ fireclay bricks. On this row, a channel is formed between the fuel chamber and the space under the stove bench, which connects to the chimney passages of the stove bench. The brick, which will be installed between the combustion chamber and the vertical chimney, is cut on both sides in the upper part at an angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, a passage begins to form between the firebox and the remaining chimney channels of the stove. Here you need to take into account that the upper part of the combustion door and the top of the brick cut from both sides must be at the same level. If the door was installed one row higher, combustion products would have the opportunity to freely exit into the room when the door of the heating stove was opened.
	The tenth row is laid out from 36 red and 8 fireclay bricks. At this stage of work, the combustion chamber is connected to a vertical channel. Red and fireclay bricks, located on both sides above the firebox door, are cut off at an angle from above (shown by a yellow arrow), since between them, according to the lock principle, a brick will be laid, cut from below on both sides, also at an angle. Next, the resulting horizontal channel is divided into two parts - the small right and large left. Some of the bricks forming the channel and located on its left side are cut off diagonally at the top (shown by the green arrow).
	On the same row, a red brick and ½ fireclay brick (shown by arrows) are cut into the remaining locking slot above the firebox door.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the space under the bed is blocked with bricks. Its size increases by moving the outermost bricks outward by 30 mm; its exact parameters are shown in the order diagram. The removal of the walls of the firebox continues, the bricks in it and the smoke exhaust ducts are cut diagonally - on the firebox from above, on the ducts below (shown by yellow and green arrows, respectively).
	The 12th row is laid out from 49½ red and 16 fireclay bricks. On this row, the bed is overlapped for the second time, also with an increase in its size - the outermost bricks move outward by 30 mm. Three vertical chimney channels are formed along the rear wall of the stove. The middle and left channels are connected from below by a common space, and the right one is combined with the output channel of the couch. The bricks forming the right and middle channels are cut diagonally from the bottom (shown by yellow arrows). A groove is cut out in the bricks framing the combustion chamber - a seat for mounting the hob (green arrows). Moreover, the dimensions of each side of the seat should be 5 mm larger than the plate itself.
	A hob 310×650 mm is mounted on the same row (shown by an arrow).
	The 13th row consists of 49 red and 7 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The bed is covered with a third layer of brick, and its dimensions return to their original size. To do this, the bricks of this row are shifted inward. In the diagram you can clearly see the emerging vertical channels - the main one located on the left side of the hob and three located along the rear wall.
	The 14th row is laid out from 16 red and 4 fireclay bricks. Only the stove is being built from this row, since the laying of the stove bench is already completely finished. Two halves of bricks are placed in the back wall of the furnace, which should protrude 25 mm beyond the masonry (shown by arrows). They are needed so that they can be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 fireclay bricks. When laying it out, the same brick halves are installed above the brick halves installed below (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the diagram, and consists of 15 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 17th row is also produced according to the presented scheme, from 14½ red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ fireclay bricks. A passage is made in the left wall of the cooking chamber (shown by an arrow), where the ventilation door of the cooking chamber will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Next, on the same row, a 70x130 mm door is installed in the left ventilation passage (shown by the yellow arrow). Then, a steel strip 50x5x735 (green arrow) is laid on the walls of the cooking chamber to cover it, and a corner 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow) is placed on their edge.
	The 19th row consists of 16 ½ red and 3 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the front part of the cooking chamber is covered with brick. The brick is laid on a steel strip and angle.
	Further, on the same row, the cooking chamber is completely covered with a sheet of roofing iron 360×375 mm (shown by a yellow arrow), on top of which five steel strips 50×5×360 mm (green arrows) are laid. The metal sheet gives the ceiling of the cooking chamber a cultured appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 fireclay bricks. They completely cover the cooking chamber, and on the main chimney channel a seat is cut out of the bricks (shown by an arrow) for installing a “summer” valve.
	Next, on the same row, the 130x250 mm valve itself is installed on the seat (shown by the arrow).
	Row 21, its laying involves the use of 21 red and 5 fireclay bricks. A row is laid out according to the diagram. The bricks framing the left vertical channel from the side of the main smoke exhaust channel in the upper part are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). The brick laid between the middle and right vertical channels is cut obliquely on both sides (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this row, the left and main, as well as the middle and right channels are combined. The formation of two drying chambers is underway. In the rear wall of the large drying chamber and the rear wall of the combined main and left channels, half a brick is installed, which can be removed if necessary to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd row consists of 16½ red bricks. To cover the area of ​​the left vertical channel, three steel strips 50x5x360 mm are laid above it (shown by arrows).
	The 24th row is laid out from 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, the left vertical channel is blocked with bricks, leaving only a hole measuring 130x260 mm for the main chimney channel. The bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney channel are cut diagonally from below (shown by the yellow arrow). Two steel strips 50x5x360 mm (green arrows) are laid on the front part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, the right and middle vertical channels are overlapped, as well as the front part of the large and entire small chamber. Then open space a large drying chamber is covered with two steel strips 50x5x360 mm (shown by arrows). The bricks in the masonry of the side and front sides of the stove are moved forward by 30 mm. The drawing shows the dimensions that should result from this offset.
	The 26th row is laid out from 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the stove is completely covered, except for the hole for the main smoke exhaust duct. This row continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it also has the front and parts of the side sides protruding outward by another 30 mm each. All dimensions of the protrusions are indicated on the order drawing.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to its original size, that is, the bricks are shifted from the edge, according to the dimensions indicated on the diagram.
	The 28th row is laid out from 5 red bricks, and is the base of the mounted pipe. Cutouts are made from the inner edges of the bricks (shown with a yellow arrow) for a seat for a 130x250 mm chimney damper. After this, the valve itself is installed (green arrow).
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second row of the mounted pipe. Next comes the further laying of the chimney.

If you listen to all the recommendations and carefully follow the ordering diagram, this stove, which has a fairly simple design of channels and sections, can be built even by a novice stove maker. The main thing in this work is to take your time and accurately carry out the configuration of each of the rows.

Residents of private houses do not always connect gas heating. Therefore, an alternative is to install a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage. Some homeowners install the equipment as additional heating equipment. There are several types of brick stoves for heating different rooms and squares.

A Russian stove will not only heat the house, but with its help you can prepare a delicious lunch and bake a loaf of bread Source zen.yandex.ru

Advantages of stove heating

Wood burning stoves heat up quickly and distribute heat over a long period of time. The brick emits radiant energy, which is good for health. A house where a stove is installed is always comfortable and warm. Thanks to draft, natural ventilation is created in the room. The designs often have a hob on which food can be prepared. In addition, such a stove can be used to dry clothes, shoes and food.

A combination oven is a device that has several functions. This includes a fireplace stove, a heating and cooking stove and a Russian stove.

The only significant drawback is poor heating of remote rooms. That is why they try to install the entire structure in the center of the house for uniform heat transfer. In large houses, it is advisable to install several stoves that have a combined chimney. The hob is usually installed towards the kitchen.

Heating equipment differs in appearance and design.

Usually the stove is installed between several adjacent rooms so that they all heat up evenly Source pechnoy.guru

Review of brick kilns

Furnace designs developed independently of each other in different countries. Accordingly, they received names - either according to the principle of action, or from the name of the country in which they were developed:

Dutch oven

The design is one of the most popular. Some models are equipped with a hob and oven, which solves the problem of cooking, but the classic “Dutch” is used only for heating.

The duct-type firebox heats the walls perfectly. The smoke is discharged through a vertical channel, in which almost all of it burns. Although brick stoves for wood-burning homes are usually large in size, the same cannot be said about the Dutch oven, so it is optimally suited for comfortable heating of a private house - one or two floors. Outwardly, the Dutch woman resembles a column. The shape of the structure can be round, square or rectangular.

Advantages of a Dutch woman:

After long breaks, you can start firing the stove at full power.

A small structure can heat a house of 70 square meters. m.

Economical. Low material consumption. The installation price is lower, as well as saving space.

The design has thin walls, so it warms up quickly.

Classic “Dutch” stoves take up less space, but they are used only for heating the house Source ar.decoratex.biz

Flaws:

The efficiency is no more than 40%.

You should not forget about cleaning the stove from ash, as well as soot for normal draft.

The most effective mode is smoldering. This design is often called a furnace. long burning.

After heating, you need to close the view, otherwise the stove will quickly cool down.

This equipment can be used to heat small houses that have 2 floors or an attic floor.

Russian stove

It is large in size and multifunctional, and also has smoke channels and an open firebox. It is sometimes closed with a flap. The equipment may have a hob.

In addition to heating the room, this design allows you to cook food and dry clothes.

Coefficient useful action is a maximum of 60%. In winter, the stove must not be allowed to cool down, so it should be fired regularly. If the structure cools down, condensation may occur. The brick becomes saturated with moisture, and upon subsequent cooling it freezes and cracks.

In summer, you can use the oven for cooking summer mode. In this case, the smoke is directed directly into the chimney using a damper, and the body of the structure does not heat up.

Modern Russian stove with a stove bench in wooden house Source yandex.ru

Advantages:

With timely heating, a comfortable microclimate and temperature are created in the house.

Multifunctional design.

A brick stove for a summer house decorates the room.

Flaws:

High installation cost due to the large volume of bricks.

Due to the large weight and size, it is necessary to build a solid foundation.

Low efficiency.

The ducts and chimney must be cleaned regularly.

Such equipment is suitable for year-round use.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer installation services for fireplaces and stoves. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Swedish oven

The stove has a universal design and is designed primarily for efficient operation in small areas. The standard “Swedish” is equipped with an oven, hob, and niches for drying things. Some Swedes have a couch and a fireplace.

The principle of operation of a Swedish stove is approximately the same as that of a bell-type stove - combustion of flue gases occurs under the arch of the firebox.

Design advantages:

The room heats up very quickly.

Possibility of preparing food hob, and in the oven.

Almost complete combustion of fuel.

Thanks to the design of the channels, the lower part of the equipment is heated, and, consequently, the floors are slightly heated.

A heat exchanger can be installed in the design to heat water.

The Swedish brick stove has its own characteristics, but it copes well with heating the house Source mauro-gianvanni.ru

To prevent heat loss through the floor, it is necessary to install high-quality thermal insulation.

For the installation of heated elements, fireclay bricks are used, which have a higher cost.

Bell furnace

One of the modern designs is such a stove. The equipment heats up well and retains heat for a long time. The design does not have small winding channels, therefore, they are not so susceptible to soot settling.

The principle of operation of a bell-type furnace: smoke rises from the firebox, then remains there until it cools. And then it begins to descend along the walls of the chimney, thus heating it. Such designs are effective because they can have several caps.

Advantages:

Low cost of material and installation. Simplicity of design.

You can install a heat exchanger and a hob.

Heats up quickly even after completely cooling.

The gas view prevents reverse draft. This is why the oven cannot cool down when the damper is open.

Modern hand-made stoves provide the ability to heat several rooms in the house at once Source mauro-gianvanni.ru

Such a stove can have several hoods, and, therefore, it will be possible to heat 2 floors and several rooms. It is difficult to identify any shortcomings, which is why the bell-type model is popular among homeowners.

Video description

For an example of laying a bell-type furnace, see the video:

Where to install a wood-burning brick stove in a house

You can install the stove anywhere, but for efficient heating it is recommended to place it in the center of the house. Experts do not recommend installing equipment near the external wall of the house to avoid heat loss to the street. When constructing the structure, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the sides of the foundation, the location of the pipe and the height of the furnace.

Is it possible to build long-burning brick stoves?

Every homeowner wants to install heating that does not require much labor. Arranging this in a long-burning wood-burning home stove made of brick is quite problematic. Industrial furnaces made of metal that operate on this principle produce carbon monoxide. A long burning mode can be arranged in a Russian or Dutch oven. But this method is not 100% effective. Therefore, it is recommended to install a standard brick stove, which retains heat for a long time.

Video description

For some thoughts about long-burning stoves, see the following video:

Basic masonry techniques

In production, heat-resistant and fire-resistant materials for the firebox, as well as hardened bricks, are used. It is not recommended to build a stove yourself. It is necessary to contact specialists for high-quality and safe masonry.

Specialists carry out work in compliance with all safety standards and regulations. For laying bricks, cement mortar is used, which is diluted with sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.

For binding material, many craftsmen use clay and sand.

Each row of bricks is laid out in a certain way to form a furnace of a given design. Source pechki.net.ru

What you need to purchase to build a stove

First you need to purchase masonry mortar and bricks. The amount of material will be calculated by a specialist. Do not forget about constructing a separate foundation for installing the furnace. The equipment will require cast iron elements: a door for the firebox, a blower (ash pan door), rings for the burner, a chimney valve, a grate and a hob.

In addition, it is necessary to purchase steel elements: a hot water tank and an oven. When building a structure, you will need strips made of metal of different widths and lengths. Metal corner standard size 0.5 x 0.5 cm annealed steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 cm. A sheet of steel must be placed before the firebox.

In some designs it may be necessary roofing iron to cover the cooking chamber.

The required amount of material is calculated by a specialist based on the size and type of oven.

Long-burning wood-burning brick stoves for homes are built from fireclay and red bricks, clay and sand. To build the foundation you will need sand and cement, crushed stone, roofing felt, as well as boards for formwork.

Doors and gratings (grids) are installed along the masonry of the main structure Source extracraft.ru

Brick pyrolysis stove

Such heating equipment can be classified as long-burning. Solid fuel burns without oxygen. With the help of wood, volatile gases are saturated, and then burned at a temperature of more than 450 o C, and they are mixed with the remaining air in the 2nd chamber.

This design has a high efficiency, which can reach up to 95%.

You can install the equipment at the dacha, in the garage or country house small area. The pyrolysis furnace consumes little fuel at maximum operation. All solid material burns almost completely. Soot practically does not settle, since coals and gas are burned.

All pyrolysis models work on this principle, but different designs differ in characteristics and appearance.

A pyrolysis oven may not be very different from classic brick ovens Source stop-othod.ru

How does a brick wood stove work?

Brick stoves collect heat and gradually distribute heat throughout the room. A small house is heated from 15 to 24 hours. Smoke escapes through the chimney due to natural draft. The room in which heating equipment is installed should be regularly ventilated. The valve on the main pipe closes to stop the draft.

It is optimal to use dry firewood for the firebox. It is necessary to clean the ash in the receiving compartment. There are usually no problems when using the equipment.

Brick structures have some disadvantages:

Cleaning the chimney about 2 times a year;

You need to add firewood manually;

Construction of the furnace is necessary only from quality materials that meet all standards. Otherwise, the equipment may not heat the room well or the smell of smoke may appear in the house.

If the stove is being built from 450 bricks or more, then it is necessary to build a foundation. Heating equipment can be installed on the base of the house if it is made in the form of a whole slab. A separate foundation is arranged without reference to the base.

Basically, the foundation for a brick kiln is made according to the standard scheme Source nastroike.com

According to the house plan, a place is selected for installing the heating structure during the construction of the house. In a house that is already in use, the arrangement of the equipment is designed so that the chimney is located between the floor beams. It should be at a distance of 1 meter from the rafters.

The chimney pipe must be at least 0.5 m higher than the roof. The closer the pipe is to the ridge, the higher it should be.

Video description

A little about the secrets of using a brick oven in the house in the following video:

Cost of a wood-burning brick stove

The cost of fireclay bricks starts from 58 rubles. A red brick costs about 20 rubles. Laying one brick will cost 85 rubles. The cost of the foundation, depending on the height of the base, will be approximately 20 thousand rubles. In addition, you must pay separately for the installation of doors, grilles, valves, etc.

Conclusion

A properly selected and built stove will not only warm your home, but will also become a noticeable piece of furniture. To ensure that all installation work goes smoothly and the stove itself lasts a long time, contact professionals who will not only do their work quickly and efficiently, but also give a guarantee for it.

Modern brick stoves for wood-burning cottages perfectly heat the room without drying out the air. Every summer resident can build such a structure if he approaches the project implementation process correctly. In addition to serving as a source of heat in the home, wood stoves are used for cooking. Firewood, as a source of fuel, is a cheap and, most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is not difficult to obtain in the countryside.

What are they?

Brick stoves for wood-burning homes, despite the presence of modern electric fireplaces, still remain relevant in many country houses. A similar structure is built according to drawings and diagrams, which are not difficult to find. fits perfectly into any interior. Building such a structure in a house has a number of advantages:

• Wood burning stoves long time retain heat in the room and do not cool down as quickly as metal devices.
• The heat from the device spreads evenly over the entire area of ​​the room, simultaneously warming the neighboring rooms.
• During construction, you can independently calculate the consumption of materials and heat transfer.
• - a source of fresh air and a healthy atmosphere.

Types of structures

There are several types of summer or winter wood-burning stoves for the home, each of which has unique characteristics and construction plans. Main types of devices:

• Heating. The main task of such stoves is to heat the room as quickly and efficiently as possible in order to create comfortable living conditions for people. The size of the structures is selected individually depending on the needs of the customer.
• Cooking. The design is also called a food oven for the kitchen. Various dishes are prepared in such devices. Some projects involve one complete system, which significantly enriches the functionality.

What are they built from and what tools are needed?

Before starting construction, it is important to check that all tools and materials for the job are present. It is quite difficult for beginners to lay stoves alone, so it is recommended that the entire process be supervised by an experienced person in construction. To build fireplace stoves with your own hands, you need the following equipment:

• shovel;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• building level;
• hammer;
• plumb line;
• Master OK;
• rule.

The construction scheme for a wood-burning stove provides a standard set necessary materials:

For the design itself you will need a hob.

• corner;
• valve;
• hob;
• oven;
• doors;
• bricks of various types;
• clay and sand, crushed stone;
• cement, water and others Additional materials for the solution.

Stages of work

Preparation of the solution

Furnace project for summer kitchen involves several stages of construction. At the first stage, it is necessary to allocate a place for the future foundation and prepare a hole. After this, the solution is mixed and the base of the supporting structure is formed. After pouring cement mixture, you need to wait a certain period of time (2-3 days) until the foundation dries. Next, prepare a clay solution and begin the main laying process.

Brick laying mixture wood stove It is made with a thick consistency, but it is important to take into account some features. Before using the finished solution, be sure to check its quality. There are several techniques that allow you to assess the degree of readiness of the mixture. Several balls are rolled from the solution, which subsequently, after drying, should not have cracks on the surface. If there are any, the mixture for masonry is not the most best quality. You can bake a similar ball in the oven. If after baking the product has retained its shape and there are no visible damages, the solution is considered to be of high quality.

There will be no operational problems with a fireplace for heating a house if all construction standards are met.

How to lay brick?

Closer to the 10th row, a firebox is formed from bricks.

• Two continuous rows of bricks are laid across the entire base in accordance with the construction plan. The edges of the structure are laid out from solid products.
• In the 3rd row, an ash chamber is formed, the door of which is secured on the 2nd row of masonry. The fourth and fifth row of bricks must be covered, after which a wood drying chamber is installed if desired.
• After the 6th row, the oven system is expanded to the inside, while controlling the level of the filling and the corners.
• On the 7th row, fittings are installed in the form of a grate and a solid grate, and the door for the firebox is secured.
• After this, at stages 8 and 10, the combustion chamber is formed, and during the lining process it is necessary to secure the dryer, which is completely covered, starting from the 11th row. The surface of the structure is lined with metal rods, after which the concrete mixture is poured. The future chimney is being laid.
• In line 12 a brick is placed on which a small kitchen stove will be mounted. The surface is installed directly into the brick filling, and water containers are secured near it.
• The masonry stages end with the formation of a chimney.

In winter, the house needs heating. Although current technologies offer different variants to create comfort and coziness, maintain a stable temperature, the classic type is in great demand not only for country houses, but also for permanent housing. A brick stove for a cottage or home can not only emphasize the originality of the style, but also be a functional element of decor.

A stove like this has several sides to evaluate, it can heat, and it looks beautiful

Options for home

• cooking systems;
• heating structures.

You can also find multifunctional options that combine a classic fireplace, a water circuit and additional fans to increase draft and better warm up rooms. The cooking type is used if you need to make a brick stove for your summer cottage. Craftsmen combine it with a tank for heating water. It’s impossible to talk about completely heating the house, but you can cook dinner on such a stove.

In this video you will learn how cooking ovens work:

As a standard, it is combined with gas or electric heating. The structure consists of several elements. These include:

• hob (occupies most of the structure);
• water heating tank;
• small oven.

The traction power depends on the depth of the device and the parameters of the case. The material from which the lining is made determines the heat transfer and the ability to heat the room. A standard sized stove can maintain a temperature of small room, often this is the kitchen. This is where the functional design for cooking is installed.

The heating and cooking type is multifunctional due to the combination of the hob, oven, fireplace. In most cases, a shelf for drying things and other elements that contribute to maximum use of the stove are also installed here. Dimensions and functionality depend on the parameters of the room in which the structure will be installed.

Such a design consists of at least 3 elements

A heating stove is used to heat rooms. It consists of a large chamber, an ash pit, which is located under it, and a chimney. The design resembles a stove with a fireplace and performs not only a decorative function, but also practical heating of the room.

Types by type of design

Depending on what elements are included in the process of creating a stove, experts distinguish several types. Each of them has its own functionality and capabilities. Brick stove for the dacha May be:

• Russian;
• Dutch;
• Swedish

The first option is considered classic, because it combines practicality and functionality in terms of heating the room, the possibility of cooking, there is a shelf for lying on and a place for drying things. If the house is used by residents all year round, then the version of the Russian stove will be ideal in terms of application. As for appearance, thanks to original ceramic combinations you can make a real masterpiece out of an ordinary old stove.

For summer cottage this type is not suitable, since due to its large dimensions the stove will require a lot of firewood, and accordingly, enough heat will be released to heat the room. A small cooking option is enough for cooking.

In addition, if you put the stove into operation, you must actively use it, otherwise it can absorb moisture from the air, which will worsen the combustion process and heat generation. In appearance, this is a huge structure, finding a place for it on small dacha it will be hard.

Dutch oven It is considered a good option for heating several rooms at once. It does not take up much space, but at the same time generates enough heat for a comfortable stay in the house in winter. Fuel consumption here is low, and the level High efficiency. The disadvantages of the stove include the requirements for the type of fuel and the quality of the material from which the lining for the structure will be made.

The stove must be heated for a long time, if it is frosty outside, so that it warms up well and begins to give off heat to other rooms. She also demands regular use, otherwise the soot in the smoke channel begins to mold inside the structure.

A Dutch oven is a practical option as it covers several rooms at once

Swedish oven It is considered the most popular and popular; it was developed for cold, harsh climates, so the main goal - rapid heating of the room - is achieved quickly. The external parameters are compact, but this does not affect the high heat output and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

It heats up quickly due to its design features. The back with a fireplace almost always opens into the living room or bedroom, and the cooktop can be used for cooking. For the dacha, as well as for everyday use, this option is considered ideal. You can heat the stove with any materials, this will not affect the level of efficiency.

“Swedish” warms up very quickly

Functionality and configuration

Making a brick stove for a summer residence implies the presence of certain functions. The main ones include cooking, heating rooms, heating places to lie, the ability to admire an open flame on long winter evenings.

Before choosing the type of stove, you need to decide not only on the functionality, but also on the configuration and arrangement options. By shape brick stoves for a dacha may be different. Not only appearance, but also functionality depends on this. Masters highlight:

• rectangular heating structures;
• T-shaped options;
• round ovens;
• Russians;
• babies.

The ability to heat a large area depends on the size. Small options are used more often for decoration and creating comfort in the room than for some functionality. For large structures, it is necessary to prepare firewood in advance, because in order for the temperature in the room to be constant, it is necessary to heat it often.

If the stove is used exclusively for heating, then experts advise paying attention to fireplace designs, this will help save materials and money on construction and get the same result.

Based on the principle of creation, a distinction is made between channel options with forced movement of gases and ovens with free movement. The first option includes the Dutch and Swedish type. The fuel burns in the firebox, after which the smoke breaks through a special channel, and the heat is distributed over the surface of the layout. Thanks to the powerful draft, combustion products are removed through the smoke channel.

The purpose of the design is to maximize the heating of the walls of the stove, and from here the heat will be distributed throughout the entire room for a long time. Furnaces with free movement of gases behave differently in terms of heat release.

Here hot air gradually rises upward, displacing the cold one downwards, where it warms up. Thanks to the free transition from one chamber to another, the heating process is fast, and the temperature then remains stable much longer than with the classic version.

Typically, stoves have two or three chambers that are connected to each other by a dry seam, which is located at the bottom. The operating principle of a bell-type stove is simple, due to this the design is popular not only in summer cottages, but also in houses intended for year-round living.

Advantages and disadvantages

There are a number of shortcomings in channel devices with forced gas movement. This creates difficulties during the installation process and operation of the structure:

1. The rate of heating of the room depends on the traction force. If it is humid or bad weather outside, this reduces the draft and the wood begins to burn more slowly. To strengthen it, craftsmen advise making a high chimney to overcome resistance. If the house is with low ceiling, then this type of stove is not suitable.
2. Hot air is concentrated at the top of the stove, which can make the floor quite cold.
3. The efficiency factor is low, even with a high chimney and additional fans to disperse heat, the figure will not exceed 55-60%. Standard traction gives an efficiency even less - approximately 40%.
4. The large structure slows down the heating process, so the stove needs to be heated longer so that the heat is evenly distributed over the surface and begins to be distributed in the room.

Stoves with free movement of gases have no significant drawbacks, and thanks to the presence of several chambers, the air flow is enhanced and the heating process is accelerated several times. You can use different design options in everyday life, but you must take into account the features of their operation and efficiency.

Features of do-it-yourself masonry

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, it is necessary to create a powerful and reliable foundation for it. You cannot connect the foundation for the stove with the foundation for the house, since the latter shrinks over time, which can negatively affect the stove itself. Cement or concrete mortar can be used to create the foundation. You can create a base from special blocks, this also guarantees quality and durability.

Several types of bricks can be used for the construction: ordinary bricks made of ceramics and fireclay (fireproof), from which the base of the stove is laid. They use a solution made from oven clay, it holds up well high temperatures, practically does not crack during operation.

When inserting a door for a firebox or ash pan, be sure to tie it with burnt steel wire to enhance strength. If the firebox is cast iron or another chamber made of this material, then an asbestos cord must be additionally used, which compensates for the different temperature conditions elements.

For cladding the finished structure, both ceramic elements and clinker bricks can be used, decorative tiles. Choice finishing material depends on the type of stove and design style. For process may be needed the following components:

• ceramic solid and fireclay bricks, mortar for masonry;
• roofing felt, asbestos cord, formwork boards;
• hob, ash pan, door elements.

In addition, you may need special tools: a level, a construction marker, a shovel for mixing the solution, a protractor, tape and a plumb line. If you follow step by step instructions and fulfill all the requirements during the work process, then the created stove will be not only functional, but also of high quality.

You can make a brick stove for a wood-burning cottage yourself, but you need to remember a few tricks. Thanks to this, the creation process will be fast and productive:

1. The thickness of the seam should not exceed 5 mm; the neatness and evenness of the masonry depends on this.
2. Each layer must be checked not only with a building level, but also with a special plumb line in order to compare both the thickness and width of the row. Only after measuring the created layer can you begin to create the next one.
3. To create good traction, you need to make a short gas exit path, the so-called summer run.
4. In each row, the brick must overlap the joints of the previous one; the layer must begin from the corner.

During the process, you need to monitor the consistency of the solution: if you place bricks on the surface for a long time, the cement may dry out, and then the procedure will become more complicated. To prevent this from happening, craftsmen advise creating a little mixture and finishing it during the work process. An interesting DIY stove can decorate any interior design and turn your home into a real work of art.