Bathhouse projects using frame technology, do-it-yourself construction. Frame bathhouse: examples of projects Calculation of the amount of materials

The construction of a bathhouse is necessary for any summer cottage and at country house. But traditional options, which use brick or timber, have a number of disadvantages. But frame buildings deprived of them must be erected using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from bricks or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials and prepare perfect drawings. And without the help of someone it will not be possible to complete such work. That's why frame projects deserve special attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood compared to conventional timber structures is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings turn out to be relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance is even more pronounced. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously finish external and internal walls, and the overall installation speed increases noticeably. The smallest area of ​​the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm, which are filled with concrete, for the foundation.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are lifted one by one and placed above the frame posts. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame is completed, the bathhouse is divided into separate rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantages of the structure frame baths it turns out:

• Ease of construction;
• cheap design (low cost for materials);
• simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
• poor thermal conductivity;
• the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil appearance;

• elimination of shrinkage;
• no need for complex construction equipment;
• environmental safety (rare for country budget buildings);
• the ability to complete all work without the involvement of specialists;
• exclusion of wet work - construction can be done in winter and even where there is no stable water supply;
• wide variety of finishing options.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately detect certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated with timely measures, only because you need to properly understand the possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form cool quickly, and therefore an ugly fungus appears inside after a short time. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality insulation materials.

Polystyrene foam or simple mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the service life of a panel bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the shrinkage of the frame is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the external and internal decoration is deformed. This risk can be reduced if you use lumber that has been kiln-dried.

Subtleties of design

The simplicity of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely start work without preparation. Even having experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out design and drawings of the future structure will help you avoid serious mistakes.

In a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is necessary to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths should be avoided altogether if there is sufficient territory for development.

The most simple circuit– when the steam room, shower, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini-structures or transportable bathhouses, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create, even with the smallest dimensions, even very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath can easily be heated by a small boiler or a wood-fired stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimum-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

• low consumption of building materials;
• almost complete elimination of waste;
• high speed of work;
• strength and reliability (since in a small area there is no need to save on the quality of components).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to the house must be registered with the cadastral registration authorities.

On a larger site, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will allow you not only to wash off the dirt from yourself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides involve a significant area of ​​the rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, this is where the staircase connecting the first floor with the attic is located.

Two-story bathhouse superior to a one-story one simply because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to frame technology, the vast majority of costs relate to the foundation of the building, and if it already exists, subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation from support pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building rafter system baths are made of boards with a cross-section of 10x5 cm, and the lathing is usually boarded with a thickness of 2.2 cm.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy construction set. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a swimming pool; then they are simply placed on the prepared frame. The kit usually comes with detailed technological instructions that help to avoid mistakes - as long as they are strictly followed. In the case of mobile bathhouses, everything is even simpler - they are assembled not at construction sites, but at industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is to supplement the finished blocks with the necessary parts.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs; the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Bath equipment is often placed inside. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. Design insulation indicators depend on whether the bathhouse will be used year-round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame assemblies: any seller can do this after knowing the required dimensions and design. IN standard projects the exact metal consumption is standardized, and if they are made to order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But they still need to be controlled, since even with iron materials, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the wood needs, you need to choose whether timber or logs will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

• shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
• there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
• the work is greatly simplified.

The strongest timber, according to experts, is made from coniferous species, moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive effects of wood-gnawing insects and microorganisms. Standard sizes timber taken into account in the calculations range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters claim that you need to add 10-30% to the result obtained. But this step is frankly stupid, because, on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on the openings of windows and doors.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with area, and then find themselves forced to stop work, purchase missing materials and spend money on their transportation. To avoid mistakes, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, price tags and sellers' speeches indicate slightly larger sizes of timber than they actually are.

To save additional money, you can replace the timber with boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. Only boards of the highest category are acceptable for work.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and chosen the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to understand the sequence construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other bathhouses or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them reveals its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when constructing a foundation, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then the external contours are marked and, using a drill, holes are drilled that go 2 m deep.

Please note: the amount of depth in some cases may be greater or less. This decision is made based on soil type and depth. groundwater. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and filled with coarse sand on top, and it is thoroughly compacted. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

• 1 part cement M200;
• 4 parts sand;
• 7.5 parts of fine crushed stone;
• 3 parts clean water.

According to step by step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, and a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The installed pipes must dry, and only then it comes time for installation. bottom trim. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the frame, and a subfloor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure of the joists and the framing, roofing felt is laid, and sometimes this place is generously coated with mastic.

Construction of the foundation for frame bath y, having two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases It is allowed to do only for miniature baths, the total area of ​​which is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the timber and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to place several bars at the same level, trimmed along the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well in clay soils, where they serve consistently for many years.

When building baths on screw piles, there is no need to join the supporting structures using timber or channels. Such supports help to build even on the slope of a hill or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the use of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

At every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. It is forbidden to remove structures that have tilted when twisted, according to the technology; their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and fragments of reinforcement. After installation is completed, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, the heads are welded on top of them; A drain in a bathhouse is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many people try to put a bathhouse on strip base. This solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both schools of technology are simple, but require a careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations They are erected directly on the construction site, and the prefabricated ones are only laid and connected. Most often they focus on shallow depths (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the load-bearing walls.

Choice suitable option foundations are often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be carried out independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are determined by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level to which the ground freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared of grass and bushes, flowers and turf in advance. There should not even be stumps, roots or any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markings, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared landmark. The building's cushion is made of sand, which is generously filled with water and compacted. Then cover the first layer with crushed stone. Waterproofing is installed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing felt is used, although it is increasingly being replaced by the more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. The boards must be laid without the slightest cracks, with an elevation of 30 cm above the ground. Then reinforcement is also carried out: tied wire reinforcement placed 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is done with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel; its thickness is similar to dense sour cream. Additional strengthening is achieved through plasticizers.

It is recommended to prepare the mortar yourself, as it is much faster than receiving a ready-made mixture from a factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold seam and avoid water seeping through it, which would damage the base. And, importantly, differences in cost can be neglected. Having completed the work, the foundation is covered with liquid-impermeable material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using smooth and strong panels so that its appearance is ideal. The nails are driven strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, removing the shields will be much more difficult. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about the connections for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables. If they are not provided immediately, then you will need to chisel and destroy the quality of the monolith.

Put strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt for a frame bathhouse, it is quite acceptable if the fertile soil layer is removed and replaced with added sand.

Both a monolithic solution, a shallow structure, and a non-buried base are necessarily protected from the effects of frost heaving. For this use:

• drainage means;
• side edges;
• insulation around the blind area;
• removal of heaving soils and replacing them with sand or crushed stone.

Tapes with shallow depth cannot be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed underneath. A correctly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; Such a step will make it possible to make the basement part of the structure optimal; it will be possible to form both the beams and the ground floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by arranging special racks that will be secured by the upper harness. In between, other posts are added. They will make the sauna stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, they are attached with self-tapping screws. By sequentially assembling the parts, the structure is finally formed.

In frame buildings, windows and doors are installed immediately, without waiting for the work to be completed.

In most frame baths, the floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers can easily make do with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the joists, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the finished flooring joists are adjusted taking into account the insulating layer being created.

As for the basic materials, all long-lasting wood species are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But the poplar and so on soft wood unacceptable. Before purchasing and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should be taken from one batch that has been kiln dried.

It is advisable to make the finishing flooring from edged or tongue-and-groove boards, since it will not require additional sanding, but the rough base can be unedged.

An alternative wooden structures self-leveling floor often appears. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling flooring can be considered:

• integrity of the created coating;
• high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
• zero level of fire danger;
• no dust and harmful secretions during operation;
• a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
• Maintenance is much easier than caring for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, a self-leveling floor will finally harden only after a few days, when you can walk on a wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such coating is very high. It is recommended to make any bath floors with a slope towards the drain; this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be made horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to implement, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

You can’t just “pour” a self-leveling floor: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it quickly loses its fluidity, and if this happens before the end of the work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, two people fill the floors.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front cladding is made on the basis of lining or particle boards. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under the outer skin. Only then is insulation used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and fire safe. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A structure used year-round must have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. The optimal solution for this is considered to be polyethylene film.

Painting wall paneling, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because fumes from even the safest paints and varnishes can be harmful to health. When thinking about wall design Special attention attention is paid to how ventilation ducts and electrical wires will pass through them. Because for exterior finishing flammable materials are used, and there is often excess moisture in the air, preference should be given to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms are finished using boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers; with a larger value, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of a frame bathhouse are gradually laid and assembled directly on the site. The truss must stand on the prepared frame base. Placing it on a rough plank floor helps to simplify the work on creating the roof. The model cake always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counterbeam is filled with a vapor barrier. The sheathing must be attached to the timber.

Then it’s time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest pitched roof, which can be done quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work correctly and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions are 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. If calculated correctly, a cover with one slope will last for many years and will be extremely convenient to use all this time.

Flat roofs It is not recommended to do it yourself in bathhouses. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation when natural ventilation is weak absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, pitched roof should be located at a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. If this condition is met, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend down.

You can create a slope in two ways: deliberately making the walls unequal in height or installing racks. With the second option, less material is wasted, but the heat will be retained worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as the angle of the roof decreases, they have to use increasingly smooth facing materials. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the resulting puddles and snow drifts. The Mauerlat is formed from coniferous timber with a cross-section of at least 15x15 cm. The outside is covered with a layer of waterproofing (smeared with mastic or wrapped in roofing felt). Rafters are made exclusively from smooth boards with a cross-section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hard wood.

With such dimensions, an optimal safety margin is achieved and it remains possible to attach insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. Please note: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of the walls from water. All ends rafter legs are equipped with cuts for mauerlats, which are secured with nails or metal plates. The sheathing is attached to the legs of the rafters at right angles.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, a continuous sheathing based on moisture-resistant plywood must be created.

In other cases, gratings are made of slats; their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness must be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover bathhouses with pitched roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, it is necessary to install slab or roll insulation. Regardless of this, use:

• hydrophobic film;
• fire retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
• special fasteners;
• carefully selected and tested tools.

Single-pitch roofs should rest on rafters spaced at intervals of 0.5-0.8 m. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including caps made of synthetic rubber. These tops help block water seepage. If there are no specialized fasteners, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the gables are sewn up, a drain is installed - that’s it external works the frame bath is completed.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not be possible to limit it to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Finishing external walls helps developers and designers express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to cover them with siding or clapboard. These materials are not much less popular than block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the rough walls. There should not be even minor cracks on them, the joints of the sheathing should fit tightly to each other. With help vinyl siding you can create a variety of visual pictures: and imitation simple tree, and a “brick” wall, and something high-tech in spirit. They perform no less well plastic panels, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bathhouse to the limit, you should choose a block house.

If you choose lining, it must be left for several days to allow acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials; their increased cost is fully justified. The choice of design in interior decoration is now unlimited; you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. The dressing rooms are finished with both deciduous and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose a color that is as calm and balanced as possible, taking into account the purpose of the bath.

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Washing departments covered with clapboard, pre-impregnated with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. There is no place for coniferous wood in the steam room, with the exception of cedar. Among deciduous varieties, the first place invariably comes from linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term use. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a brick sauna stove using tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. The tiles should not be hung on the masonry; they should rest on the base of the stove. You should avoid simple plastering; it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. The use of decorative stone sometimes brings good results.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is supplied to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

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Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of musty air will not bring pleasure to anyone. All these problems can be solved using carefully designed ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at approximately the same distance below the ceiling.

An outlet at the bottom can only be installed using forced ventilation or a large ventilation pipe. The cold air input can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation to street air or other rooms. For baths built into the house, it is always necessary to use means of forced ventilation.

How to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bathhouse. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, mineral wool slabs are used. Thanks to a large number air inside, they retain heat well, and heat melting allows you not to be afraid of fire. Often frame wall It is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally safe and perform their task well.

The cheapness of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness and resistance to moisture make such protective coatings one of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation can be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be protected from contact with water and water vapor. Wet insulation quickly deteriorates and loses its positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating stoves and their surroundings involves the use of various materials asbestos. It can be used in the form of slabs or sheets. But given the danger of asbestos fibers to humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

• basalt fiber;
• isolon;
• needle-punched mats.

Heat in a bathhouse can escape not only through the walls; Most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. It is used less and less in wall insulation because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available analogues. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer increases. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

The insulation of frame buildings with sawdust has a fairly long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but installing such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood shavings are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but the price level there is even higher than in sawmills.

Only shavings made from hard hardwood are suitable for the job. The maximum permissible humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust has not been used on construction sites for a long time, because it settles and forms voids, and fungus can appear inside.

Be sure to treat the raw material with boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Loose laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binding materials, then the composition is poured into wooden molds on which the floor is laid. The base is protected from dampness using kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area; it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in the most different designs. This is what the structure looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. In front of the door there is a kind of platform, which you need to climb up a small ladder. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of construction. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

If done correctly, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. A modern approach to baths often involves the use of a minimalist style. A striking example is presented in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-lined walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, and in as soon as possible. Using any of the presented types of washing machines is easy and convenient.

We use timber for the frame, so our baths have many of the advantages of wooden buildings. They are environmentally friendly and look great, and the pine tree resin makes the air healthier and prevents colds. Modern technology provides other benefits.

What are the benefits of frame baths?

• Construction speed. The construction of any bathhouse will take no more than a month. The time for arranging the foundation will also be short, because the structure is very light.
• All-season. If you have found a suitable frame bath project, we will build it for you at any time of the year. And you will be able to use it immediately, because the materials are not subject to shrinkage.
• Low thermal conductivity. Multilayer walls retain heat well. The sauna warms up quickly even in cold weather. To have a good steam, you don’t have to waste a lot of firewood.
• Economical. Frame construction is affordable for families with an average income level. The cost is much lower than for logs, bricks and other traditional materials.
• Diversity. We offer saunas different sizes and configurations, including projects with a veranda, porch, vestibule, separate bathroom, second floor, etc. It is possible to develop an individual project especially for you.

Where to order?

The construction company "Pomestie" has been building houses and bathhouses using frame technology for more than 10 years. We use coniferous wood processed in our own production. This gives us the opportunity to offer the best price and complete the work on time. The result is many satisfied customers, whose reviews you will find on our website.

By contacting us, you can be sure that the construction will delight you for decades and will not create unnecessary hassle. We provide a full range of services from design and calculations. All you have to do is accept the quality work done and enjoy your new building!

The construction of houses and baths using frame technology is becoming increasingly popular. This is because the technique is such that even alone you can build, not only a bathhouse, but even a decent-sized house. Despite the fact that the structure turns out to be warm (with sufficient insulation), it is also light and inexpensive. Perhaps its only drawback is its high fire hazard, but this is the problem with any wooden structure, not just a frame structure.

Often construction is stalled due to the fact that you do not know how to properly plan a bathhouse to make it convenient and safe. They can help with this finished projects layouts. Ideally, if one of them suits you completely: no need to rack your brains. Although you can make adjustments if necessary. And sometimes just an idea is enough for everything to “fall into place” for you and a plan for your frame bathhouse to emerge, which you will build with your own hands. To do this, we have selected several projects of frame baths of different sizes with different layouts of rooms.

Bathhouse layout 4*5 m

This is a bathhouse with a large relaxation room, a small bathroom and a steam room of 4.8 m2. The foundation is a shallow strip foundation - depth 70 cm, plinth height 40 cm (total height of the foundation with plinth 110 cm), gravel bed 20 cm. There is a small porch, which, if used year-round, can be sheathed and turned into a vestibule. Then cold air will not enter the premises every time the doors are opened.

Finished drawing of a frame bath 4*5 m

total area 20 m2, rooms and their dimensions:

• Rest room 8.5 m2;
• Steam room 4.8 m2;
• Bathroom 2.2 m2

Necessary materials to create the frame:

• racks, lower and upper trims are made of 100*50 mm boards;
• floor beams - from boards 150*50 mm with a pitch of 0.58 m;
• rafter system - from 150*50 mm boards with a pitch of 0.58 m.

This bathhouse project has a fairly spacious relaxation room, and with such small dimensions of the building - 5 by 4 meters, there is a fairly spacious steam room - a “pure” size of 4.8 square meters. According to the project, the stove is heated from a steam room, so for this small room problematic: there won’t be very much oxygen anyway. In this option, you can leave it in the same place and install a sauna stove with an extended firebox. In this case, the firewood will be supplied from the rest room, and the heater and the main “body of the stove” will be located in the steam room. With this arrangement of the stove, the problem of heating the rest room is also solved.

Project of a frame bath 6*6 m

The photo shows the layout of a fairly substantial bathhouse measuring 6 by 6 meters. There is a small veranda, a dressing room, and a full set of necessary premises.

This option is good because standard length lumber can be used in almost any room: 6 or 3 meters. This is convenient as there is little waste left. The foundation can be piled or columnar. A shallow tape or slab will do.

But there are some notes on the layout. The washing room for this frame bath project is spacious. This is an option for those who prefer to relax after the steam room not in a cool (relative to the steam room, of course) relaxation room, but continue to relax in the humid and warm atmosphere of the washing room. Then it maintains a temperature of about 30-35°C and quite high humidity (due to the increased power of the oven and open door to the steam room). They also install sun loungers, similar to shelves in a steam room. Then a large sink is justified.

You need a larger washing area if you plan to use it. If there is only a shower and a few small benches, then you can either fence off the locker room or increase the size of the steam room.

Bathhouse plan after changes - with a dedicated vestibule

The second point concerns the entrance. If you plan to come to the bathhouse in winter, it should have a fenced-off entrance - not directly into the rest room. And this option is easy to implement. All you need to do is change the windows and doors and install a partition.

About where and how best to place it.

Total area 36 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• veranda 4.5 m2;
• recreation room 13.5 m2;
• sink 9 m2;
• steam room 9 m2.

Frame bathhouse 6*3 m with terrace

This option was developed by the Karkas construction company. The bathhouse itself is small in size - 6 by 3 meters. But an extensive terrace is attached to the front part, slightly smaller in size than a bathhouse: 2 by 6 meters. The premises in this bathhouse project are very small; the steam room can accommodate no more than three people sitting, and if one person is lying down, then only two. Moreover, the “lying” shelf can only be located opposite the door and its size will be small - it will no longer be possible for a tall person to lie down (2 meters, minus the thickness of the cladding on both sides is at least 15 cm, the total length of the shelf will be 1.7 m).

In this version of the bathhouse layout, the stove can only be placed in the corner at the entrance to the steam room. It will be heated from the rest room, but you will need to choose some kind of tall and narrow model - there is very little space for its installation. You can try to fit the stoves, there is more small ovens, if you need a reliable, inexpensive stove for a brick screen, you can try to fit . There are other small ovens and quite a few. You need to decide on the maximum dimensions that will “fit” into the allocated space or move the door a little. In general, in an amicable way, it would be nice to move the wall at least half a meter. By increasing the size of the functional rooms, because in the summer, most likely, the recreation room will smoothly move to the veranda.

And one more nuance: if you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, then you need a vestibule or dressing room. IN this option You can move the entrance to the veranda and fence off part of the area by making the entrance to the room through the vestibule.

Project of a frame bath with a terrace. The good thing is that you can easily do it yourself

Total area 18 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.07 m2;
• sink 1.61 m2;
• steam room 3.48 m2;
• terrace 11.21 m2.

Materials of key components:

Bathhouse 4*4 m with terrace

The bathhouse itself measures 4 by 4 meters. There is a terrace of 4*1.5 meters attached to it. This bathhouse layout is different in that the steam room and washing room are the same size. Two, maximum, three people will feel comfortable in the steam room at the same time. If you are planning a dry-air sauna, this layout is suitable without question.

For a Russian steam bath, the option is not the best: at least one person is lying here, and for comfortable steaming in a Russian bath, the shelves must have a size of at least 2.1 * 0.7 m (or better, 2.2 * 0.8 m). In the washing room, if you are not going to put sun loungers there for relaxation after the steam room, usually they only wash. It is better to reduce its size a little by expanding the steam room. Then at least one full-fledged shelf can be included. Although the stove will still be tedious and small: firstly, the volume of the steam room is small, and secondly, there is not much space.

The dimensions of the premises in the basic bathhouse design are as follows:

• total area 16 m2;
• recreation room 8 m2;
• sink 4 m2;
• steam room 4 m 2;
• terrace 6 m2.

Materials of key components:

• sauna piping made of timber 100*150 mm;
• floor joists 150*100 mm in increments of 90 cm;
• ceiling - 150*40 mm every 60-70cm;
• rafter legs edged board 100*50 mm;
• roofing material- metal tiles, corrugated sheets, ondulin.

Frame bathhouse 5.4*6.3 m

In this frame bath project, the steam room has an area of ​​5 square meters. A terrace measuring 2*5.4 meters has also been added.

Total area 22.2 m2. Premises and their sizes:

• recreation room 11.3 m2;
• sink 5.9 m2;
• steam room 5 m2;
• terrace 10.8 m2.

Advantages of frame buildings

The frame building is a skeleton made of timber, sheathed on both sides finishing materials. A vapor barrier and insulation are laid between them. It immediately becomes clear that, if necessary, construction can be low-budget. After all, it is possible to use inexpensive thermal insulation materials(straw, sawdust, etc.) which, despite their availability, retain heat well.

It is clear that the weight of the walls with this technology is very small. And this leads to the fact that the foundation can be made lighter. When building baths, they are most often made using either pile-grillage construction. But a monolithic slab or block foundation is also suitable.

A lightweight foundation means lower costs for materials and construction, because the foundation sometimes costs half the cost of the entire construction. And in this option the costs will be relatively small.

For construction frame house no complex technology required. All you need is a saw, a hammer, a screwdriver, and to check the verticality of the walls. If there is another technique, use it for your health, but this is the minimum you can get by with.

An important advantage is that you can work alone, only occasionally inviting assistants for some operations. A striking example is presented in the video: the woman herself, with her clearly unathletic hands, has almost completed the construction of a small two-story house using frame technology.

Flaws

About increased fire danger frame buildings already written. And this is the main disadvantage of houses built using this technology. Therefore, it is advisable to treat all materials with fire retardants (agents that reduce the flammability of materials).

The flammability of walls means that all electrical wiring must be laid in metal boxes or special non-flammable corrugated sleeves. For this reason, electrical installation work becomes more complicated and more expensive - the cost of casings and corrugated hoses is added.

A frame bath has additional disadvantages: high humidity makes its own adjustments. You will have to pay increased attention to the vapor barrier of the walls. When using mineral wool, you will need to protect the insulation from moisture very carefully: when wet, it loses its properties. Moreover, when dried, it restores them only partially. If it freezes wet, it simply crumbles. Therefore, we choose a high-quality and reliable vapor barrier (not “hydro”, but “steam”). When laying, we follow the technology down to the smallest detail (overlaps, gluing joints and fastening points, etc.).

Necessary materials

The basis of a frame house is frames assembled from wooden beam. Depending on the planned size of the bathhouse, timber 100*150 or 150*150 mm is used for their assembly. For jibs and crossbars that are nailed between vertical posts, thinner bars are suitable.

When installing a roof for the Mauerlat, you will need approximately the same timber - 150 * 150 mm or so. For rafter legs, the same bars 100*150 or 150*150 mm. Depends on the configuration of the selected roof and the weight of the roofing material. By the way, it is undesirable to use very heavy roofing material - such as ceramic tiles - for frames - the load on the walls is too great.

You will also need slats to create lathing, counter laths, and all sorts of auxiliary work. Moreover, you will need a lot of them: lathing is needed both on the walls on both sides and on the roof. Although, in some versions, the outside of the boards is covered with plywood (as in the video above). There are a lot of construction options, as well as the materials used.

You will also need subfloor material. What it will be - unedged or edged boards, plywood or other board material - is up to you to decide. But all the wood will need to be treated. And fire retardants - to reduce flammability, and protective antibacterial compounds. About,

Frame cladding materials inside and outside are selected based on personal preferences or the purpose of the building. If we talk about frame baths, then usually everything inside is lined with clapboard (tiles are placed in the washing room), and outside with imitation timber or a blockhouse.

It is advisable to use it as insulation for a bath mineral wool: They don't burn. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the region. For middle zone In Russia, mainly basalt wool is used for baths, in a layer of 15-25 cm. If you are concerned about the possibility of formaldehyde release (a lot has been written about this), then you can use non-woven mats. The emission of harmful substances in them is minimal.

Frame baths are often insulated with mineral wool

• It cannot be used in a steam room - the temperature conditions do not allow it;
• it melts and supports combustion;
• This insulation costs a lot (we are talking about extruded polystyrene foam).

You will also need a lot of nails and screws. For the construction of bathhouses, it is advisable to use galvanized ones: so that they do not rust and do not leave unsightly streaks on the wood. They will be needed in different sizes and diameters - large frames for assembly, smaller frames for sheathing and cladding.

From all that has been said above, we hope you have concluded that you can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands. To make sure of this, watch the video. The house was built using frame technology with the participation of only one person. It describes in more detail the technology for constructing some units.

If you have selected a frame bath project and decided to build it yourself, but have no idea how to proceed, we recommend watching the video. In it, experienced American carpenter Larry Hohn explains and shows the technology for constructing the walls of a frame house. The video is very detailed and takes more than an hour, but by the end of viewing the technology of frame construction will be clear to you.

The features of frame baths are visible both during the construction of the building and during its further operation. For such buildings there is no need to prepare the foundation in a special way, because the frame itself and the wood facing materials are light enough not to sag even when installed on fairly loose ground.

Frame baths are very popular due to their economy, compactness and practicality. A small room in a frame bath is usually divided into a compact steam room that can accommodate about four people, a shower room and a relaxation room. It is also necessary to have a small terrace or porch in the project.

Large baths are usually built in a more fundamental way using materials such as brick or timber, but, nevertheless, sometimes even two-story frame structures are found. Among the obvious advantages of this type of structure are ease of installation, record speed of assembly, and relatively low cost. building materials and works.

Thanks to all the above factors, Russians order frame bath projects much more often than the construction of brick bath structures.

A special feature of the compact 6 by 4 frame bath is the unusual shape of its terrace and rest room, which visually helps to expand the space of a small room.

Option 3 by 4 is perfect for relaxation small company.

A classic Russian bathhouse 4 by 5 consists of a bathroom, a steam room and a relaxation room.

Frame bathhouse 5.4x6.3 m

This project is spacious enough for a small group of friends to relax and at the same time so compact as to fit even on a small or almost completely built-up plot of land.

A small terrace gives a special charm to the bathhouse built according to the presented project, making it look like a pretty village house.

In fact, inside the building there is not only a traditional steam room and a relaxation room, but also a separate bathroom and a bedroom, which makes such a bathhouse quite suitable for living.

A small structure like this can be built in just a few days, but will serve you for many years.

This project contains all the necessary components for a comfortable stay.

A small frame bathhouse with a large porch or small terrace can serve as a real decoration for your yard.

The room consists of a relaxation room, a wash room and a steam room.

The beautifully highlighted foundation and natural wood paint color make this project especially attractive from the outside. Inside the bathhouse there is additionally a small vestibule that protects the room from frost.

The next option is especially notable for its double gabled roof. This structure provides the opportunity to equip a second additional attic floor.

Thanks to the compact size of the sauna, the sauna stove can cope with heating the entire room in any weather.

The height of the attic ceilings is acceptable even for a tall person, thanks to the special shape of the roof.

Frame bathhouse 6x8

The advantages of this option are that from the outside the building looks quite nice, and inside the room also has a small attic floor.

The first floor of the room is equipped with a separate vestibule and hall, which provides reliable protection from bad weather.

The attic is quite spacious and roomy.

Russian bath using 6x6 frame technology

A 6x6 room with a steam room and a washing room is a classic version of a Russian bath.

The building has everything necessary for a comfortable stay for a small group of people, both indoors and on the spacious porch, which can safely be called a small open terrace.

Large frame bathhouse 78 sq.m.

A special feature of this project is the abundance of display windows in the design, which give the room a special elegance.

Inside the building there is a full-fledged swimming pool, sauna and Turkish steam room.

If you have already read that frame baths (aka frame-panel baths) worse than timber or a log house for thermal insulation, we will delight you - this is not so.

Proper insulation

Frame bathhouse frame bathhouse is different. We have no magic with the facade - we build the base from timber, the internal frame from boards and sheath it with imitation timber. This frame is lightweight, does not shrink and can be installed on simple piles. But then we conjure with insulation - we only have it from basalt slabs from the manufacturers Paroc (Finland) and Rockwool (Denmark).

These are the most quality materials, with whom we had to work. The heating and cooling time of the bath depends on the insulation. Our materials will keep the steam room warm for 2-4 hours more than simpler and inexpensive ones.

Life time

Basalt slabs are, in essence, stone wool. She is not afraid of fungus, mold, rodents and insects. It does not deform and does not burn. A bathhouse with such insulation will last up to 100 years.

Price

You can buy a turnkey frame bathhouse inexpensively - from 175,000 rubles. Our price for building a bathhouse with Rockwool and Paroc is 5,000 - 7,000 rubles higher than its analogues, but you know what you are overpaying for. Often builders save on your heat in order to beat the competition on the price of the finished bathhouse. In fact, a conscientiously insulated frame bath retains heat better than timber and logs.

Every project that is on the site or that you come up with can be built using frame technology - there are no restrictions. Such a bathhouse takes 5-7 days to build. If you don’t want to waste time and listen to the sound of hammers under your windows, order