House mushroom in winter. Mold and fungus are the main enemies of a wooden house
The house fungus belongs to the tinder fungus, it develops exclusively in buildings and does not occur in nature. First of all, it infects the wooden parts of basements and lower floors, which are most exposed to moisture and, at the same time, poorly ventilated. Temperature 18-23 C and humidity 90-95% contribute to the most intensive development of the fungus.
This insidious destroyer spreads especially easily in buildings made of soft wood(It has been noted that pine and oak wood is less susceptible to infection by house fungus).
Signs of the presence of a fungus
Infection with house fungus can be easily identified by a musty smell in the room, wet, non-drying spots on the walls, the appearance of white cotton-like clusters of thin threads on the surface of the wood, which later becomes dark and soft. Yellow, pink, lilac spots appear on the surface of the wood. Gradually, they turn into gray films with a silvery sheen. The tree darkens, cracks, crumbles.
The action of the fungus is very intense: if the house fungus is not destroyed in a timely manner, then in 6-8 months it can “eat through” the wood through and through, six months are enough to completely rot the floor. In the future, fleshy fruiting bodies form on the lower surface of rotten wood.
Protection against fungal infection
Protection against infection of wood with house fungus consists in creating conditions that would prevent its appearance and development. Main preventive measures- it is first of all avoid excessive moisture and dampness indoors at the same time as the mandatory constant ventilation.
Also, so that the wood does not become infected with house fungus, wooden structures should securely isolated from the foundation, when building houses comply with all basic ventilation requirements premises.
important preventive measure is also coating the surface of wood with a protective layer of resin or oil- it has long been known that resinous, oiled or salted wood is preserved better.
What to do if the infection has already occurred
If the fungus has already appeared on the wood, then, in addition to special chemical antifungal drugs that are sold in every store, the following methods can also be used to combat it:
1. If possible, building materials affected by house fungus should be immediately remove and burn, replacing them with new ones so that they do not infect the remaining wood.
2. Try to warm up the affected parts of the wood (for example, with an electric reflector).
3. Cook antifungal composition(mix 950 g of table salt with 50 g of boric acid and dilute this mixture in 5 liters of boiling water) and then carefully lubricate the parts affected by the fungus with it (with a brush or sponge), so that the composition penetrates deeply into all cracks and cracks.
4. Finally, as a last resort, it is advised to use anthracene oil- it penetrates into the very depths of the wood, completely destroying the fungus.
Ecology of consumption. Manor: A fungus that appeared on the walls wooden house, can quickly lead to the destruction of wood and damage to the entire building. It also has a harmful effect on the health of people living in the house, causing allergies, asthma and other unpleasant diseases.
A fungus that appears on the walls of a wooden house can quickly lead to the destruction of wood and damage to the entire building. It also has a harmful effect on the health of people living in the house, causing allergies, asthma and other unpleasant diseases. In addition, black or brown spots on external and internal walls, ceilings, beams and other structural elements in no way add aesthetic appeal to the structure.
Let's add here an unpleasant musty smell and it becomes clear that it is necessary to deal with the slightest manifestations of the fungus, using all available means.
Fungus - what is it
The fact that the fungus has settled in your home and leads a completely comfortable existence is evidenced by the darkened wooden details. Depending on the type of intruder, the process of seizing territories by him may not be very noticeable at first, or, on the contrary, swift and irreversible (unless, of course, the fight is started in time).
Wood is afraid of almost all types of fungi that can settle in the house. The most famous and harmful are several varieties.
1. White house mushroom.
The most dangerous and rapidly developing pest that can destroy a house almost to the very foundation. House fungus spores travel great distances through the air, on clothing, and on pet hair. It belongs to the tinder fungus, it does not occur in nature. The appearance and development of the fungus is facilitated by humidity in the house up to 95% with poor ventilation.
The best place for the appearance of white house fungus are basements, cellars and lower floors of houses. From there, he easily moves to other rooms, while especially fond of buildings made of soft wood. Oak and pine houses suffer less from the effects of house fungus.
The beginning of the infection process is easily determined by the appearance of wet spots, the accumulation of white cotton-like threads on the walls. The wood under them becomes soft and darkens strongly, later multi-colored spots appear on it, which then turn into silver-gray films. The wood begins to crack and crumble.
An active house fungus is able to grind through wood in about six months. On the lower surface of rotten logs, the fungus forms large fruiting bodies.
2. Fungi of decay.
They are divided into white, brown and bacterial rot. Each type acts on wood differently, but the result is always the same - the destruction of its structure. The rot can also be wet or dry. Wet rot usually affects raw wood. Very often, elements located close to water pipes, especially leaking ones, located in close proximity to the ground, are affected by it.
Dry rot, despite its name, also occurs in damp places. Its appearance is indicated by spores in the form of reddish dust, which quickly turn into mushrooms. Mushrooms develop rapidly, forming gray stripes on the tree, penetrating deeply into its structure.
3. Blue fungus.
These insidious pests are able to destroy paint and varnish, penetrating inside structures and letting moisture in.
These fungi do not have a destructive effect on the very structure of the tree, but they warn the owner that his house needs urgent protection, giving the wood a gray-blue color.
4. Actinomycetes.
A hybrid of algae and fungi is able to soften the wooden parts of the house, completely destroying the structure.
5. Molds with pleasure they hit not only wood, but also concrete, stone, tile, fabric.
They can develop not only in wooden, but also in brick or panel houses. Spoil appearance surfaces, destroy walls and ceilings, adversely affect the health of the owners of the house.
Why fungus appears and how to remove it
The main reason for the appearance of fungi of all kinds is high humidity. Wrong organized heating and poor waterproofing, disruption of the plumbing, lack of ventilation in the room - these are the factors that can give impetus to the emergence and development of uninvited guests.
IN wooden houses sex is most often affected by the fungus. Removing the fungus is quite difficult. Previously, in villages, when a house fungus was found, for example, the affected house was preferred to be burned in order to prevent the infection from spreading further. Now such radical methods, of course, are not used, but quite a lot of efforts will be required to destroy the fungus, especially with advanced forms of damage.
If the fungus has just begun to develop, you can use home remedies such as furatsilin, vinegar, chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide. In severe cases, fungicides must be applied. The process of destroying the fungus consists of several steps.
- We wash the affected wood several times with water or a weak solution of vitriol with special additives. This is necessary in order to prevent the spread of spores. Usually a larger area is treated than the affected surface.
- Visible traces of mold and fungus are removed with a scraper or a stiff metal brush. If necessary, you can clean the wood more deeply, until a healthy layer appears. All removed pieces must be burned.
- The surface is thoroughly dried and treated with antifungal agents. All work on the destruction of the fungus is carried out only in personal protective equipment - a respirator, goggles and gloves in order to prevent fungus spores from entering the respiratory system.
The most important thing is to take measures in time and act at the first manifestations of a fungal infection. Otherwise, serious problems are possible. published
Real house mushroom (Merulius lacrymans).
Among the wood-destroying mushrooms, our worst enemy is the real house mushroom (Merulius lacrymans), also known as the "weeping (weeping) mushroom", which destroys coniferous and less hardwoods more strongly.
Initially, the house fungus was also distributed in forests, but now it is found almost exclusively in buildings. The real house mushroom forms two groups, one of which includes the real house mushroom (Merulius lacrymans), and the second - the wild mushroom (Merulius Silvester).
Let us consider in more detail the first group, since its representatives are the main destroyers wooden structures in houses. Since real house mushroom is mostly found in houses, it practically only spreads from houses and is not brought with firewood from the forest. Considering that the house fungus is much more common than expected, and that spores, mycelium particles, the smallest infected particles of wood and stone, as well as mycelial cords, which during repair and construction work can easily be spread by people engaged in this work, serve for its distribution , it becomes clear that it must be widely distributed and easily endure not favorable conditions existence.
House mushroom, like the famous edible mushrooms forms spores during reproduction. The latter are extremely small and individually invisible to the naked eye, but due to the fact that they are formed in large quantities, can be found in the form of rusty dust. Getting spores in culture succeeds very rarely or not at all, which explains the opinion that spores fungal disease does not apply. It was revealed that urine has a beneficial effect on the spread of the fungus, since latrines are often the foci of fungal infection.
The most favorable temperature for mycelium growth is 23°C. At favorable temperature, humidity and nutrition, the mycelium of the fungus grows by 5 mm per day, as was established by laboratory experiments on culture.
As soon as the first sprout of mycelium has appeared, younger mushroom filaments (hyphae) form a kind of cotton pad that grows between floorboards, behind toilet seats, etc. Over time, the mycelium spreads more and more and, as it ages, changes from pure white to reddish or yellowish and ash color. Being at first similar to cotton wool, it later becomes leathery and layered. With further development, the fungus forms rather powerful mycelial cords 1–1.5 mm thick, characterized by thick-walled fibrous hyphae and vascular hyphae that conduct protein. With the help of these cords, which are first yellowish and then dirty gray, the fungus passes from one source of food to another and, over time, endangers all the wooden parts of the building. Mycelium can grow even through heaps of coke, briquettes or coal, so that under favorable conditions for its existence, nothing can block the path of this fungus and prevent it from doing its destructive work in wooden structures.
When fresh, the cords of the mycelium are elastic, later, when dried, they become hard and brittle.
The house fungus extracts the nutrients necessary for its existence almost entirely from the affected area; Nutrients enter the growth zone of the fungus along mycelial cords. In search of new food sources, the mycelium of the house fungus moves from the basements to the overlying floors, and from the walls to inside doors and window frames. You can often see that oil-painted wooden parts have a wavy surface. The wood lying under the paint is heavily affected by prismatic rot, which is found when it dries. Such wood is easy to pierce with a penknife.
When you remove the paint, you can see the destruction of unexpected proportions.
The fungus infects a wooden floor under some kind of dense coating, such as linoleum, as this material does not allow the tree to dry out and thus creates favorable conditions for the development of the fungus.
Since the mushroom with its mycelium and fruiting bodies is also found on stone walls, then it is sometimes called a stone fungus, although this should not be understood as extracting nutrients from the stone.
As already mentioned at the beginning, individual affected pieces of wood or parts of the mycelium can be foci of new growth. When a healthy tree comes into contact with a diseased one, a new focus of the disease may occur. Therefore, it is extremely important to remove and burn the affected tree as quickly as possible. Finding an affected tree in a damp basement or warehouse can have very serious consequences.
Often there is an outgrowth of the fungus from old affected areas, such as pieces of wood. The mycelium in the affected tree remains viable for a surprisingly long time.
After the fungus has been destroying the tree for a long time and has accumulated enough nutrients, it forms fruiting bodies.
In shape, the mushroom does not look like forest mushrooms at all. tree mushrooms; it is more or less flat and has a white border, which in young specimens may exude droplets of a colorless or light yellow liquid (tears), which gives the mushroom its name lacrymans- watery.
The inner surface of the house fungus, i.e., the spore-bearing layer, has a yellow or brown color and an uneven, bumpy surface with small folds. The pulp of the fungus has a distinct radial fibrous structure. At a young age, it is soft and fleshy, at an old age it is thin and viscous. Fresh fruiting bodies are easily separated from the wood on which they grow, and the old ones are firmly connected to it.
Upon reaching spore maturity, even a small fruiting body produces millions of spores. The number of these spores can be so great that the walls of the basement seem to be painted rusty brown in places. By the time of ripening, spores are easily separated from the surface of the fruiting body.
Fresh mycelium and young fruiting bodies have a pleasant mushroom smell.
The affected tree reveals characteristics prismatic rot. Such a tree, as already mentioned, is easy to grind with your fingers into a fine brown powder.
At this stage, the hyphae are no longer in the tree.
Many readers of our site report the destruction of wood in buildings, which causes the so-called house mushrooms, ask to explain what is the matter and we get rid of this trouble.What are house mushrooms
The most dangerous wood destroyer, which develops in the basement of buildings and in cellars, is real house mushroom.No less dangerous membranous house mushroom, and in places of leaks often develops mushroom - giant peniophora.
All these mushrooms develop on the surface of wood, often in corners where there is less air movement, under plaster, in cracks, at the joints of elements, under sheet materials covering decaying structures.
More details on our pages...
Successful fight against house mushrooms
Successful fight against house mushrooms is reduced to creating conditions unfavorable for their development. First of all, it is necessary to dry the wood and isolate it from sources of moisture.Mushrooms stop growing if the wood is dried to a moisture content of 30 percent (i.e., it will feel dry to the touch).
It is most difficult to create dry conditions under the floor of the basement of buildings. The reduction of air and wood humidity here is facilitated by the installation of blind areas, grooves that drain water, and the destruction of vegetation shading the basement.
It is desirable that the distance from the ground to the floor was at least 20 - 30 centimeters, and ventilation holes are made in the basement. They should be opened with the onset of warm days in the spring and closed with an autumn cooling before the onset of negative temperatures.
Ventilation holes Tan should be placed. so that supports for logs, fundamental partitions, thermal channels and other structures located in the basement do not interfere with ventilation and do not contribute to the creation of "air bags" where air stagnates.
Need to trace so that the wood in the places of its contact with stone or concrete is laid on waterproofing. In new homes, to speed up the removal of building moisture.
It is necessary to paint the floors, lay linoleum, cover the walls with plaster and covering materials no earlier than 2-3 years after the completion of construction. The preservation of the flashing beam (lower strapping) is facilitated by protecting it from moisture by atmospheric precipitation.
Should not be allowed so that it is even partially covered with concrete, brick, insulating blockage, earth, etc. In cases where, for one reason or another, it is impossible to dry the wood (for example, for parts and products installed in the ground) or protect it from moisture, it should treated with special preparations.
An effective chemical agent is drug "Pentabos". The method of its use is indicated on the package.
Aqueous solutions are also effective: sodium fluoride (300 grams in 10 liters of water), sodium silicon fluoride (65 grams in 10 liters of water), ammonium silicon fluoride (1,000 grams per 10 liters of water), CMF preparations (350 grams of copper sulphate and sodium chromium peak and 180 grams of fluoride sodium per 10 liters of water), HMK (130 grams of copper sulfate and chromic and 65 grams of sodium fluoride per 10 liters of water) and HMBB; 160 grams of borax, 340 grams of boric acid and 250 grams of copper sulphate and chromic per 10 liters of water; vinegar essence is added to the solution until the precipitate disappears).
How to protect wood from house fungus in buildings
Wood processing for building protection can be done by repeated brushing or spraying. Each subsequent application should be made immediately after the previously applied portion of the solution has been absorbed by the wood, without waiting until the surface of the wood dries out.Processing must be affected areas and adjacent zones with a width of at least 0.5 meters from the border of a noticeable lesion.
Details from new wood must be treated in the same way after they are in place, or they may be pre-soaked in one of the solutions listed above.
By doing repair work
it should be taken into account that the fungal infection can persist for a long time on woody residues in the ground. Therefore, in order to avoid the occurrence of foci of development of house mushrooms, it is necessary to clean the building and especially the space under the floor from wood residues and construction debris.
The wood contaminated with fungi removed during the repair cannot be stored. near buildings and use without pre-treatment with antiseptics, especially for structures where dampness may appear.
To kill a fungal infection in the ground, it is recommended to pour it from a watering can with a solution of copper sulfate based on 1 square meter of dry soil - 10 liters of a solution containing 5 percent of copper sulfate, or for 1 square meter of wet soil - 5 liters of a solution containing 10 percent of copper sulfate.
Protective measures when working with chemicals and solutions
All work with chemicals and their solutions must be done in rubber gloves, aprons and goggles in compliance with safety and personal hygiene rules.Do not smoke or eat while working. After finishing work, wash your face and hands with warm water and soap. Solutions and chemicals must not be stored in places accessible to children and animals.
Chemical containers must not be used for any other purposes.
I. Krapivina, candidate of biological sciences.
There was a case, he moved into an apartment in a "Finnish" house for two families, entrances from opposite sides, post-war construction. Everything would be fine, only the walls are filled up and a regular cellar is not allowed. But people before me lived, got out as best they could; they dug a cellar between the foundations of the ovens and stored vegetables, pickles and jams there. Foundation with ventilation windows, black floor 50 centimes from the ground, that is, natural ventilation under the floor was present.
When, after the main arrangement, my hands reached the cellar, I was in a state of shock for a week! Descending into the underground, I discovered the kingdom house mushroom! Everywhere where the beam of the lantern rested, a white blanket of mold hung, lay, and, in my opinion, even stirred. Under this layer were older layers of multi-colored mold. In some places, the thickets were so dense that it was difficult to guess the boundaries of the cellar. Individual threads were a finger thick! It became clear that the cellar had not been used for a very long time. Some strange-looking insects were crawling, mosquitoes were flying and something else! The air was poisoned by mold, rotting (somewhere a rat died), high dampness (although the ground under the house was completely dry, even dusty!), My patience was only enough for 5 minutes and I flew out of there, and they even shouted from the room to shut me down as soon as possible. basement hatch - stinks!
The beginning of the struggle consisted in removing the thickets of the fungus - from one square meter I tore off a bucket of mold with a rammer! It angered me that I couldn’t remove the main mass - I couldn’t reach it, and it’s purely with wooden surfaces the mushroom cannot be torn off - roots remained in the cracks, and this is seedlings!
The posted photos of the house mushroom were not made by me. I didn't find anything on the internet that came close to what I encountered! At the time, I didn't care about photographs. And now I have nothing to photograph on this topic!
Having more or less cleared the place for potatoes, I did not look into the basement for a month. When it came time to lay the blanks, again a shock - the mushroom started up new shoots, systematically filling the space I had conquered!
During this month, I, a city dweller, learned from literature that my house should be burned down 🙂 or systematically flooded and smoked with all kinds of chemicals. True, they didn’t write anywhere how to continue to live in the ashes or not poison yourself and your family with chemistry!
Since in the past he was directly related to chemistry, he immediately categorically refused the services of her dear one. But the score in hand-to-hand combat was not in my favor! The house mushroom is not terrible for its creepy appearance, but for the fact that it quickly destroys the tree. And if in my case you don’t fight it, then you can soon be left without sex, and the house has already been for many years!
I found a way out in the barn while unpacking the remaining boxes that had not been opened since the move. In one of them there was an experimental setup (fun in your spare time), which, in addition, used a powerful source of hard ultraviolet radiation in the form of a DRL lamp without a bulb (well, where else could you get such a source in Soviet times, besides a powerful one?). I ripped the cartridge and throttle out of it, lengthened the wires and hung this miracle in the basement.
After turning on twenty minutes later, a well-known bad smell ozone mixed with nitrogen oxides - I had to cover the hatch with rugs to reduce the penetration of smell. Left the device on all night. In the morning I turned it off, and after returning from work I immediately climbed to check the result. Immediately noted - fresh air and a draft that wasn't there before! The whole fungus turned brown, thinned and looked like a dirty cobweb. For the first time I saw gaps from ventilation windows! Significantly reduced the smell of decay!
Another week I fried the basement at night with ultraviolet light, as a result, the fungus disappeared completely even from the neighbors! I specifically checked with the help of a long pole with a fixed mirror all the places hidden for direct rays - the fungus died! Together with the fungus, the number of insects also sharply decreased.
What damaging factors led to this result?
- First, it is hard ultraviolet radiation. As is known from physics, ultraviolet radiation is dangerous for organic life in large quantities. What gets under direct radiation quickly loses the meaning of life!
- Secondly, it is ozone, poisonous in large quantities, very aggressive triatomic oxygen, which is formed from the attack of oxygen molecules by ultraviolet radiation. Ozone actively tears all organic matter to shreds, especially if it is in a gaseous state (the smell of rot is organic matter). Ozone is heavier than air and the living thing that escaped from direct ultraviolet rays is poisoned by ozone (crawling insects). Also a big plus of ozone is that it does not live long. Due to the instability of the ozone molecule and the always huge number of objects that are ready to be oxidized by atomic oxygen, its concentration quickly disappears!
- Thirdly, these are nitrogen oxides, which are formed due to ozone and, again, ultraviolet radiation. Nitrogen oxides have practically no effect on plant organic matter - the concentration is too low. But there is “organic” in the basements and cellars, for which nitrogen oxides are not the last reason to leave their homes. Read about this "organic" below.
I was prompted to write this article by infa from one of the forums where the question was asked about the fight against mold and house fungus. I was amazed that the answer was the same that I read back in Soviet literature, when few people knew about the Internet! Googling a specific question, I became convinced that all the information on the Internet is a complete reprint of Soviet articles without any reflection, analysis, taking into account modern realities, with virtually no warning about precautions when using chemistry. In a rare case, this chemical attack has been reported to have a short-term effect and must be repeated periodically (for the chemical industry to flourish!).
On the wave of demand, our chemistry (and some garages :)) launched the production of special compounds to combat mold and house fungus, making money on the insufficient education of our people. Along with the fight for environmental cleanliness environment we are offered to flood our homes with chemistry, in which we and our children spend most of their lives!
The mistake in the fight against mold by chemical methods is that we forget that mold is the first plant substance that quickly populated our planet at a time when it was impossible to live on it by our standards! Also, the mold will be the last to die before the dying Sun burns our planet! For mold after a billion years of hardening while surviving in extreme conditions, our chemistry is like pellets to an elephant! So why waste money poisoning yourself and your children?
I leave the choice to you, everyone will have their own reasons for using this or that method in the fight against this evil.
What is this simple device?
Everything you need to assemble this device is sold in electrical stores. We will need a DRL lamp for 125 (or 250) watts, a choke also for 125 (or 250) watts (for each lamp power there corresponds its own choke with the same power, if the power of the lamp and the choke do not match, the lamp will either not light up or fail). A ceramic socket for an E40 lamp is also required. The cable is sufficient for 1.5 squares, determine the length at the installation site.
I draw your attention to the fact that everything (except for the cable) listed is considered industrial goods, therefore, not every electrical store can have them! If you are unlucky with shops, then with the help of "liquid currency" all of the above can be purchased from a familiar electrician.
For reference, I will give prices in the store closest to me:
- DRL lamp 250 watts - 330 rubles.
- Choke 250 watts - 890 rubles.
- Cartridge E40 - 70 rubles.
Accordingly, a lamp and a 125-watt inductor are cheaper!
When purchasing a lamp BOO inspect the internal burner through the transparent section of the glass of the flask in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base, it should not be black or smoky - this is a sign of a burned out bulb.!
There is a type of DRL lamps - which work without a choke, they are not suitable for our purposes!
We assemble the circuit, hang the cartridge in the right place and check whether the device works. If the lamp burns steadily after 7 - 10 minutes after switching on, then everything is fine with us. Unplug from the outlet and proceed to the preparation of the lamp itself.
To do this, we unscrew the lamp, let it cool, wrap it in a rag and gently break the flask (preferably at this moment be wearing goggles!), being careful not to damage internal organization! We remove the broken glass, carefully remove the remaining glass in the base area with pliers, so that in the future, when screwing the lamp into the cartridge, you do not cut yourself. Now the lamp can be screwed into the socket. You will have to tighten by holding on to a glass pin glued into the base, from which a wire armature comes out holding the burner and supplying voltage to it, so without fanaticism - do not turn off the burner and do not close the wire armature to each other!
I repeat — screw the lamp into the socket and unscrew it only when the device is completely de-energized! The wire fittings in the lamp are bare conductors and if there is a connection error, for example, a switch, they may have a phase, so remove the voltage from the device completely!
Now it remains to wipe the quartz tube of the burner stained with fingers with alcohol or acetone from fatty traces and you can turn on the device.
What can not be done with this device?
- You can't carry it on ( high risk of electric shock)!
- You can’t admire how the burner flares up and works ( radiation power is approximately equal to the power of a manual arc welding- a quick burn of unprotected eyes occurs)!
- Cannot be used for tanning skin peeling the next day)!
- Do not stay in a room where this unit is turned on for a long time ( Possibility of poisoning by ozone and nitrogen oxides)!
- Do not turn on if there are fuels and lubricants, oiled rags, cans of paint, gas cylinders rotting in in large numbers vegetables, flammable dust (flour, powdered sugar, sawdust, coal, peat, etc.) ( possible flash from ozone oxidation)!
- Do not place close to wooden objects and structures ( burner temperature too high)!
- Do not leave your favorite animals and plants indoors ( sad consequences)!
Provide for the possibility of turning the device on and off from the outside, so as not to pick up the "bunnies" once again and not inhale the ozone!
After turning off the device for about an hour or two, do not go into the room, let it ventilate!
If you didn’t save yourself and grabbed the “bunnies” ( the appearance of pain in the eyes, during sleep, the eyes festered, it hurts to open them, it hurts to look at a bright light) - drip eyes (2% solution of albucid, digitloxacin - acos, 2% solution of lidocaine, sodium sulfacyl, riciniol base, or carefully inject tetracycline eye ointment under the eyelids; you can folk remedies- a bag of sleeping tea, crushed raw potatoes…) And be sure to see a doctor.
The second enemy is mice!
Another opportunity to use this homemade product!
After defeating the house fungus, I hurried to put the lamp in the barn, but in vain!
Autumn was coming to an end and one day, before the frosts, my basement was attacked by rats and field mice. This night will be remembered by my family for a long time! There was a continuous squeak in the basement, some kind of showdown was taking place, thundering glass jars, I could hear how they were eating my potatoes in the basement! Along the entire perimeter of the floor of the apartment, this gray bastard furiously gnawed new holes, trying to break into our living space! The dog scraped the floor and ran around the apartment with a roar and bark, the children squealed! Cursing, screaming, screeching, barking - the city people collided with wildlife :)!
In the morning to work, children to kindergarten and school, 4 am - Corvalol is drunk completely, and we have a war going on, we are under siege! Neither knocking on the floor with a stick, nor turning on the light in the basement gave any result! We were simply ignored, we were superfluous at their celebration of life! I remembered about the lamp, flew after it into the barn, hung it in the basement under the malicious glances of rodents, closed the hatch, turned it on, I'm waiting! You can hear how the "spectators" gather closer to the lamp to look at the "gift". After 15 minutes, a weak and alarming squeak gradually grew into a panic one! Again the dog rages, a child's screech, but without swearing and screaming! Some kind of race began in the basement, which quickly turned into a stampede! Silence has come! The lamp did not turn off all night.
Conclusions.
In the rules of the experimenter - to draw conclusions! Key takeaway:This device also works against rodents.! How? Not entirely clear! The experiment was carried out dirty, without preliminary preparation, without working out every possible factor :). Yes, and there is no desire to conduct such detailed experiments on mice - not my topic! All conclusions are guesswork!
- Ultraviolet- hardly! In such a short time, pain in the eyes does not immediately occur ( at the person! Tested on myself, although everything can be)!
- Ozone- Maybe ( I didn’t check it myself, I completely trust the theory)!
- Nitrogen oxides- Also an option!
Although, if we take into account that these rodents lead a mostly twilight lifestyle, then the sensitivity of the eyes to ultraviolet radiation unusual for them should be different from the human eye.
Ozone and nitrogen oxides are quite smelly even for a person who is accustomed to artificial technical and chemical odors. Our sense of smell is weakened by our lifestyle, we don’t hear many smells at all! In animals, the opposite is true; the possibility of survival depends on the sharpness of their sense of smell! And it is quite possible that a smell that is sharp even for a person can cause unbearable pain to animals or lead to a spasm of the lungs!
Now the lamp is firmly registered in the basement, I often turn it on when I hear new guests!
observation.
One morning in the yard I found a dead rat on the path. Judging by the trail, she dragged herself with the last of her strength away from home. But I was struck by the state of her eyes: they were white, like those of boiled fish! It turns out that even while dying, she tried to leave the place that was dangerous for her! This observation confirmed my hunch that poisoning rodents in such houses is to your own detriment!
I'll try to explain.
Any animal in case of poisoning or illness understands that for some time it will not be able to stand up for itself, which means it needs to find a secluded place where it can lie down without fear that it will be eaten! What could be safer for a house mouse or a rat than the basement of a house, with numerous dug and gnawed passages?
But we poison rodents precisely in order to destroy them! And now the poisoned rat dies under the house or in the passages inside the walls, in the floor and begins to decompose, poisoning the air and making our life unbearable for 2-3 months! Where to look for it? To go through the whole house on the boards in search of a corpse?
The lamp does the opposite: all its damaging factors let rodents know that this place is very dangerous for them. A stinking mixture of gases easily passes through their passages, driving everyone out. The second time the rodents do not return! Of course, then new rodents will come to the "free territory", but it's easier for me to plug the plug into the outlet than to look for a new victim of poison!
One more observation.
When he moved in, he discovered that several floorboards had been turned into dust by some kind of insect. The carpenter who came to the rescue determined that it was a grinder beetle. The damaged floorboards were replaced, and when he left, he was “delighted” that I might have to completely change all the wood in the house! You can't just take the beetle out! And I have not from wood only two stoves and slate on the roof!? However, after using the lamp, I replaced only one floorboard myself, which I hadn’t noticed before and I don’t see any more traces of the grinder! Whether it's the lamp or not, I'm not sure! But anything is possible!
Business is possible!
I give the most enterprising idea for a small business - the destruction of house fungus in basements, cellars, garages.
Most of these places are electrified by the owners, and the technical knowledge and technical curiosity of the population in Lately tend to zero. As a percentage of the entire population, there are now less and less people who, having actually seen the device described in the article, will be able to determine what it was before and what can be done with it! Thanks to the modern school exam (which teaches guess responses from several options) and for the most part nominal» higher education issuing " conditionally educated specialists"now it becomes possible to profitably use" ancient secret technical knowledge«!
At the end of the article, I can safely say: TESTED - WORKS!