Transplanting cacti at home. How to transplant a cactus at home

Breeding these newcomers from arid deserts captivates an increasing number of gardeners every year. However, not everyone knows how to properly replant a cactus at home. We offer practical advice and recommendations from specialists, accompanied by graphic materials that clearly illustrate the entire process of this agricultural procedure. Proper transplantation of cacti begins with determining the moment when it becomes an urgent need. Until this day, it is better not to touch the root system of the succulent. Any, even very careful transplantation of cacti at home leads to injury to the roots, and they rot very easily. Therefore, transplanting cacti should be timely, but not regular. The main tips in this article relate to the procedure of transshipment of the plant itself. But methods for determining the need for this work are also given.

See how a cactus is transplanted - the photo illustrates the main step-by-step points of this procedure:

How to transplant a large cactus into another pot (with photo)

Cacti should not be replanted schematically, for example, once a year, but when necessary.

Cacti are replanted when the pot no longer matches the size of the grown plant, when the previous substrate is completely depleted, when there is a suspicion that the plant is affected by soil diseases, or when growth and flowering stop. Before transplanting the cactus into another pot, you need to wait until flowering is complete.

After a lover purchases new cacti, he most often has to replant them immediately. To save space, cacti are sold in very small pots to gardening centers and flower shops. For further wounds, these small pots are completely unsuitable.

Before transplanting a large cactus into another pot, you need to wait until the substrate is completely dry. Therefore, the most favorable time for transplantation is late winter and early spring. If there is a need to replant cacti at another time of the year, you must first dry the soil in the pot.

Before transplanting a large cactus, you need to prepare a suitable workplace; it can be a table in the garden or you can just cover it with old newspapers kitchen table. New, clean pots and fresh, well-mixed and rather dry potting soil should be prepared. A new pot should provide the plant with the opportunity to grow and develop, but you should not choose it “with a reserve”, that is, too large. The new pot should also match the type of root: plants with turnip-like roots need tall and deep pots, and for clump-forming species with a widespread root system, low but wide pots are more suitable.

Look at the photo of how to transplant a cactus into another pot - all the upcoming work is demonstrated step by step:

When replanting, it is necessary, at least in your own interests, if possible not to touch plants that have spines, that is, not to pull cacti out of old pots by their stems. During the dormant period, they are very easy to remove, especially from plastic pots. To do this, loosen the top layer of soil with a wooden stick, pour it into a container prepared for waste, carefully turn the pot upside down, and the earthen lump along with the plant slides out of the pot.

If a shard was placed on top of the drainage hole in a clay pot, then after loosening and removing the top layer of soil, you can press the shard from below with a wooden stick or pencil to squeeze out the earthen lump along with the plant. For particularly valuable plants that are very firmly established, old clay pots are simply broken.

Then the earthen lump tightly braided with roots is carefully loosened with a wooden stick. The old soil is shaken off, and old, dead roots are also removed. At the same time, carefully examine the root system of the plants for possible damage by pests. Among the pests living in the soil, the whitish cotton-like discharge left by the root mealybug is especially noticeable. If during transplantation it is determined that all root system down to the smallest root hairs has rotted, then the roots are cut back to healthy tissue with a sharp knife, which must be re-disinfected after each cut. After this, the plant must be dried and re-rooted as a cutting.

If the root system is healthy, place small clay shards in the bottom of the new pot over the drainage hole.

After this, a little soil mixture for cacti is poured into the pot and the plant is placed in it so that it is exactly in the center and at the same height as before, and carefully pour - for example, with a child's scoop or a tablespoon - fresh soil on the sides .

Then the pot is repeatedly struck against the edge of the table so that the fresh soil is well distributed among the roots, and the top layer is lightly pressed around the planted plant. However, you should avoid tamping too hard, as this can lead to excessive compaction of the soil.

It must be remembered that all cacti, especially those with turnip-shaped roots, are very sensitive to stagnation of water in the root collar area. Therefore, in this place it is best to use particularly well-watered and breathable soil; for example, in a special container you can prepare a special substrate for the top layer if you add coarse sand and fine gravel to the usual soil mixture for cacti.

Watering a cactus after transplanting: is it dangerous to water?

Remember that watering a cactus after transplantation is strictly contraindicated. This can lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, the answer to the question of whether it is dangerous to do this is affirmative.

Unlike usual, they do not water after transplantation. During transplantation, minor damage inevitably appears on the root system. In damp soil, cacti can easily develop rot from these damages. Therefore, after transplanting cacti, they are placed in a warm, but shaded place for several days and watering begins only when the damage to the roots heals and overgrows. Large columnar cacti do not stay in pots well after transplantation and may topple over. Therefore, before rooting in fresh substrate, they can be tied to a peg.

Now you know about post-transplant, so let's move on to the next difficult issue.

How to transplant a cactus into a larger pot without getting pricked (with photo)

The question of how to transplant a cactus into a larger pot without causing harm to yourself, without pricking yourself or getting hurt, occupies all flower growers. If handled carelessly, cactus spines can cause quite serious damage. Therefore, when replanting, it is best not to unnecessarily touch the prickly stems of cacti, and if necessary, then this should be done easily and without pressure. Thick work gloves, available at gardening centers and hardware stores, provide some protection for your hands. However, when working with very thorny cacti or when coming into contact with the insidious thorns of prickly pears, even these are not enough. When replanting these cacti, you should not touch them directly at all, but use a rope made from old newspapers or plastic bags to grip the plants, or hold the stems with two flat wooden sticks (much like the way chopsticks are handled in Chinese restaurants).

Cacti are those plants that are firmly entrenched in the homes of gardeners. Original shape and appearance distinguish this flower from others. Despite the fact that caring for many species is quite simple, gardeners, and especially beginners, are concerned about the question of how to transplant a cactus into another pot.

People know that if they make even the slightest mistake in carrying out the procedure, the plant may stop growing or even begin to deteriorate. There have been cases (and they are not uncommon) when replanting affected flowering, or rather its absence. If you want no troubles to arise after the manipulation, you should follow all the rules.

Important! Young cacti that were just purchased in flower shops deserve great attention. Their transplantation must be treated properly.

Having spent just a few minutes learning how to properly transplant a cactus, in the future this procedure will be performed almost automatically.

How to replant cacti at home

Replanting a purchased cactus is perhaps one of the most difficult manipulations, especially when you are doing something like this for the first time. The reason is that you need to be careful not to prick yourself, and also not to damage the young plant.

It is probably difficult for someone to believe that even a small scratch on a cactus can be fatal for it, but it is so. In addition, an accidentally damaged root system, deepened into a moist substrate, will lead to the development of rot and death of the specimen.

The same applies to active and unnecessary watering immediately after transplantation.

If you have a cactus growing at home, but it has never been replanted, it is important to know when to carry out the procedure. Although the flower itself will signal this.

This is about:

• Protruding "crown". If the “cap” already protrudes considerably beyond the edges of the flowerpot, then this is a signal that it is time to purchase a new pot and replant.
• Roots protruding from drainage holes. This is a “screaming” sign, which is better not to lead to.
• Cactus wrinkling, growth retardation, loss of elasticity or color.

Sometimes the reasons that indicate that a cactus transplant is necessary are so diverse that they cannot be listed. You just need to observe the condition of the plant and then it will become clear what it is missing.

Some inexperienced flower growers insist that cacti are not replanted after purchase, assuring that they “sit” in good soil and there is no need to further injure the plant. Actually this is not true.

Few people know, but most of these copies that are sold in stores are Dutch. In order for the plants to have a decent appearance and attract buyers with their beauty, they are grown in greenhouses, but at the same time they use the strongest growth stimulants. You won’t be able to do the same at home, although you don’t need to achieve this.

This means that being in the soil in which the flower was, but placed in different conditions, it will die. However, that's not all. Often, multiple pests appear in the substrate, which are not always noticeable. Therefore, there is a possibility that, some time after purchase, the cactus will wither and many of the flowers in the house will die.

Therefore, the cactus can not only be replanted, it must be done without fail, whether you want it or not.

How to transplant cacti

If the purchased specimen has wet soil, you should not touch the plant until it dries. Often 7-10 days are enough for this. All this time, the flower must be in the so-called “sump” - a place where there are no others. indoor plants.

After this, the following procedures are performed step by step:

• A flower is removed from the flowerpot and carefully examined. Particular attention should be paid to the root system, which many pests love so much.
• Rotten or spoiled roots are cut off. If any problems were noticed with the stem: it has darkened a little or someone has also eaten it, then these areas need to be trimmed. In this case, the cut areas should be treated with activated carbon.
• Next, the cactus is washed well hot water. It would be a good idea to add an insecticide to the container, which will make it possible to get rid of the disease, if any. In the case when the cactus does not look very healthy, not only the roots, but also the entire flower are washed with water.
• After “taking a bath,” the cactus should be given time to dry thoroughly. True, there is no need to place the flower on its side; it is advisable to place it in a vertical position. Usually 4-5 days are enough for complete drying.
• You need to purchase a special soil mixture in advance, fill the pot with it, and then plant the cactus there. There is no need to water the plant immediately; this can be done after a few days.

Important! In order to save money, there is no need to replant the cactus in the same soil with which it was sold, even if it appears to have a good texture and pests are not visually visible in it.

We can say with almost 100% certainty that this will lead to the death of the plant.

If you don’t want to purchase a ready-made substrate, but want to do everything yourself, then this can be done.

To do this, you need to take some components in equal quantities and mix them well.

This is about:

• gravels;
• fine brick chips;
• washed sand;
• loamy soil;
• crushed charcoal.

Important nuances

Not only a small or large cactus needs to be replanted, but also an old specimen. Typically, such plants are replanted once every few years. Although in reality it all depends on the specific species. There are cacti that, after a few years, cannot be manipulated at all, unless there is an urgent need for it, when the plant is sick or is affected by pests, for example.

The entire process of transplanting old plants occurs as follows:

• Prepare the soil mixture or buy it ready-made.
• A pot is selected (for adult plants, it is not necessary to buy a larger pot; the size that you have is suitable).
• The cactus is replanted, this is done as with young species.
• Appropriate care is provided.

Security measures

Cactus is unusual flower, if only because it has thorns. Considering that there are specimens in which these spines are very sharp, you need to be extremely careful and careful not to prick yourself or hurt your hands.

In this case, it is best to use thick gloves made of rubber, leather or regular thick material. Some gardeners, in the absence of such, simply wrap the plant in several layers of soft paper.

In this case, dishwashing sponges are also suitable.

If you need to plant a tiny shoot, you can take it with your bare hands. Although in this case you need to be careful not to damage the plant itself - so fragile and still tender.

Methods for planting cactus without roots

If you separate small pieces from an adult plant, you can get a shoot or a baby. Experienced flower growers say that this material takes root well.

The planting procedure is carried out in spring or summer. This is not without reason, since it gives the “young animals” the opportunity to get stronger by winter.

In order to disconnect the baby from the adult bush, you need to use a knife. It is important to carry out the procedure with extreme caution so as not to harm either the shoot or the adult specimen. Next, you will need to put the baby in some dark and cool place for a short time.

Important! Before planting, pay attention to the cut. If it is wet and the gardener does not notice it, the shoot will rot.

Adult specimens are replanted in winter. Optimal time for this procedure – the month of December. If the procedure cannot be completed at this time of year, then late autumn will do.

How to propagate a cactus

Having decided when to replant cacti, you need to decide how to propagate them correctly.

The plant can be propagated by seeds or cuttings, however, you should pay attention exclusively to the elastic parts of the cactus. It's another matter when the flower dies. Even if you transplant a large cactus correctly, it will do nothing. In this case, you need to take the best cutting and try to grow a plant from it. To do this, you will need to cut off part of the flower, sharpen the cut, dry it for 8-10 days and plant it.

Propagation by seeds can be more difficult, since you will have to create a greenhouse and carefully monitor the conditions in it.

Source: https://MoiOrhidei.ru/kaktusy/kogda-i-kak-peresazhivat

Rules and features of transplanting a cactus into a florarium or pot

Cactus is one of the favorite exotic indoor plants; plants. Caring for representatives of this genus differs significantly from other varieties of indoor plants. Cacti require careful and attentive care, especially during the replanting process. Replanting cacti is one of the most important elements that a cactus grower needs to know. Therefore, it is required to approach this process as carefully and responsibly as possible.

What is needed for transplantation

The procedure for transplanting a cactus is carried out with the utmost care and caution. Cacti tend to be sensitive to the transplanting process. Therefore, violation of the technique for replanting a plant can lead to its death.

It is noted that in the event of damage of any nature: a scratch, a fracture, and so on, in most cases it is detrimental to the cactus. You should know that if the root system is damaged, the plant dies after contact with moisture.

This reaction occurs because after watering the root of the plant begins the process of rotting, which leads to its death.

The process of transplanting cacti at home is recommended to be carried out under the supervision of an experienced cactus grower.; Since without availability basic knowledge and experience, you can perform the transplant incorrectly and thereby ruin the plant. For replanting, you can use any soil mixture.

Transplanting a cactus at home occurs in several main stages:

• Special containers for replanting are prepared;
• The soil is prepared for replanting;
• The process of replanting the cactus takes place;
• Caring for a cactus after transplantation.

Preparing the container and soil for replanting

Many novice cactus growers skip the process of preparing the container and soil for replanting the cactus, which is a big mistake. During such an important stage as transplantation, you need to be as attentive and responsible as possible.

First you need to prepare special containers. To do this, the selected container should be thoroughly washed, dried and disinfected. As for the soil, you need to prepare the soil mixture in advance. It is noted that the mixture must be moistened.

Before the planting procedure, you need to stock up on the necessary components that will be required during the process of replanting the cactus.

Required components:

• Crushed brick or expanded clay;
• Washed and dried river sand;
• Marble chips;
• Fine crushed stone;
• Putrid and leafy soil.

All of the above components are required in small quantities. A small pinch of each ingredient is enough to create the required mixture.

It is worth noting that before transplanting a cactus, you need to make sure of the resulting soil. Cactus requires soil that is loose and easily permeable to water and air. Another clarification concerns the sand used for the mixture before transplanting. The sand must be exclusively river sand. It must be thoroughly washed and sifted to remove dust. If the sand is not river and sifted, then the cactus may not end up in loose soil, but into cement soil, which will cause the death of the plant.

Drainage in a pot

Drainage for cactus plants is required. This device will be especially important if there is uncertainty in choosing a pot.

Drainage will significantly improve the life of the plant, since thanks to it the cactus can get rid of excess moisture.

However, even drainage devices cannot always guarantee the removal of excess moisture from the cactus, since water accumulates in the pan, from where it is not always possible to drain it on time. It is recommended to use drainage with a minimum size of 1/6 of the pot's volume and a maximum of 1/3.

It is noted that the following can be used as a drainage structure:

• Expanded clay;
• Wine cork;
• Small pieces of broken red brick;
• Crushed stone, extremely fine;
• Small pieces of foam;

The easiest way is to use a wine cork as drainage, since it is easiest to cut into equal parts of 5.5 millimeters each part. It is worth noting that during the transplantation process, the old drainage needs to be changed, as it has the property of accumulating salts.

Which pot to choose for a cactus

For many cactus lovers, the big question is what kind of pot should you choose to plant this succulent? How to transplant a cactus into another pot? Choosing the right size pot for a cactus plays an important role in the process of its germination, so this issue should be approached responsibly. To choose a pot, you need to consider the size and type of cactus. So for small cacti, pots with an approximate size of 6-7 centimeters are required.

It is worth noting that the pot plays a big role in the germination of the plant’s root system, since this succulent grows quite slowly. A cactus can grow 10-15 centimeters in height in 10-20 years.

Therefore, much attention when planting, replanting and throughout the life of the succulent is paid to the roots. It is also noted that The shape of the pot should not be deep. A flat shaped pot is best.

This choice is due to the fact that the roots of cacti do not grow deep into the soil, but closer to the plant itself and along it.

A florarium will also be an excellent solution for choosing a container for replanting. In such a house the plant is protected from drafts.

When is the best time to replant?

Many people who keep cacti at home are concerned with the question “When do you need to replant cacti?” Cacti are not replanted annually. Moreover, replanting a plant depends on several factors:

• Plant age;
• Type of plant;
• Life activity of a cactus. The process of growth, flowering and the presence of pests.

As a rule, transplanting a healthy plant between 2 and 5 years old is replanted after 2-3 years. Older cacti are replanted after 3-5 years.

What time of year is best to replant a cactus?

The cactus can be replanted at any time of the year. However, it is recommended that a novice cactus grower replant in spring and summer periods. When the weather is conducive to the development and adaptation of a cactus in new soil. Experienced cactus growers can replant in any season.

It is noted that cacti have a period of active growing season, during which it is much easier for the plant to tolerate root damage that, one way or another, appears after transplantation. But during the period of hibernation, lesions on the roots of the succulent can lead to rotting of the roots and subsequent death of the plant.

How to transplant and plant correctly

To properly plant a cactus, you need to complete all the necessary steps:

• First you need to remove the cactus from the old pot. To avoid getting hurt by the plant's spines, you can use plastic tweezers. There is another way to carefully remove the cactus. You need to wrap the plant in paper several times, after which the pot is turned over and the succulent is carefully pulled out;
• If the cactus is “stuck” in the pot with its roots, you should squeeze the pot from the sides, or separate the soil using a knife along the edges of the pot;
• If the succulent easily came out of the pot, while a significant part of the roots broke off and remained in the ground, then you need to remove the rotten areas on the roots of the cactus. All resulting sections should be treated with crushed charcoal;
• In case of large loss of roots, when replanting the plant, it is necessary to add more river sand to the new soil. It is also noted that the container for the cactus should be chosen smaller than the previous one;

• If this is a group of plants and you need to spread them out, carefully separate the roots of the shoots from each other. You can do this with a jet of water, thereby washing the roots from the ground. This will make it easier to separate them without damaging them. After this procedure, be sure to dry the plant.
• Then drainage and a small amount of the substrate mixture are poured into a new container;
• Afterwards, very carefully you need to straighten the roots and add soil between them;
• Then the soil is poured. It is worth noting that the soil should be filled only to the root collar.

It is noted that important aspect During the transplantation process, a stem or root collar appears, which should not be covered with soil. If the stem is covered with soil, a rotting process occurs, which will lead to the death of the plant.

If you replant a cactus bought in a store, you should carefully shake off the roots from the old soil. Store-bought cacti are usually planted in peat, which is why you need to carefully separate the old soil from the roots of the plant. The soil used for commercial succulents is not suitable for growing cacti. Experienced cactus growers note that it is much easier to get rid of purchased soil if it is dry. And peat is removed by soaking the root ball in warm liquid.

How to plant a cactus in a florarium, step-by-step instructions with photos

The florarium is very popular among many decorators and cactus growers. This landing looks beautiful and decorates the interior. How to plant a cactus in a florarium without harming it?

To begin with, it is worth noting that florariums are usually made of transparent glass containers, such as wide bottles or transparent vases. The process of planting in a florarium is a little more complicated than planting a cactus in a pot.

The main steps for transplanting a cactus into a florarium:

• Fill the bottom of the vase with 2-3 cm of drainage. And pour the prepared soil for cacti on top.

• Then you need to carefully remove the cactus from the pot using thick mittens, potholders or sponges.
• Clean the roots of the plant from the soil;
• Carefully inspect the roots and root collar of the plant to identify pests;
• Removal of dried and rotten roots;
• Treatment of damage to the roots;
• If necessary, carry out water procedures. (It is noted that after water procedures, the cactus should be left to dry. Drying the roots should last about two days.)
• If the roots are in good condition, then you can only trim the longest roots.

• Make a small hole in the ground and carefully move the cactus into the aquarium, if you have a group of cockouts, carefully separate them, but try not to damage the roots.

• It is required to carefully monitor the root collar of the cactus, which should be slightly below the substrate, when planting.

It is worth noting that the container for the cactus should be chosen according to the size of the plant. You can also fill the florarium with natural fillers, such as sand. The most difficult process is the process of planting a cactus in a florarium.

After planting the plant, you will need to add a layer of top drainage. The upper drainage will serve as a support for the proper formation of the cactus in the florarium.

Caring for the plant after transplantation

• For large cacti, immediately after the transplanting process, support, which should stand for several weeks. Such measures are required in order for the root system to take root sufficiently in the new soil. After transplantation, it is also not recommended to water for two weeks. It is noted that during this period, without watering, the plant may become dehydrated. To prevent dehydration of the succulent, the plant is covered with polyethylene, which creates high level humidity.
• The optimal temperature after transplantation is 20-25˚. Next, you should follow a moderate watering regime, as the soil dries completely, after which it is better to leave the plant in dry soil for 2-4 days, and only then water again.
• After three weeks, you can apply fertilizer. Take a ready-made fertilizer mixture for cacti and dilute it with water according to the instructions. Then you can feed the plant no more than once a month.

Source: http://kaktus-sukkulent.ru/kaktusi/uhod-kaktusi/kak-peresadit-kaktus/

How to transplant a cactus into another pot at home

Due to the slow growth of cacti, inexperienced gardeners think that they can live in one pot all the time. Yes, no one transplants them in the wild, but there they have a lot of free space for the development of the root system.

At home, without replanting, cacti wither due to crowded conditions and poor soil. But changing a pot for a green hedgehog is also very painful. Let's find out how to properly transplant a cactus and how to know that it needs this procedure.

How to understand that a transplant is needed

You can tell when it's time to replant cacti at home by looking at the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If no roots come out of them, the plant does not need to be replanted. If they stick out, you need to assess their condition. If they are covered with mold or a white coating, the cactus needs to be transplanted into another, more spacious pot.

Attention! Roots protruding from the drainage hole do not always indicate the need for replanting. If the roots are fresh, without a cloudy coating, and the body of the plant is healthy, then this only means that it has developed a powerful root system. Now the cactus is ready to grow stems and spines, bloom and form fruits. Transplanting in this case can lead to a delay in flowering, since the green pet will have to grow new roots to develop a new space.

Replanting after purchase

Experienced gardeners recommend replanting cacti after purchasing them in a store. The fact is that the basis of the store-bought substrate is peat. It is very poor in minerals, and therefore the plant is watered with nutrient solutions before sale. The root system grown in such conditions is very weak and unhealthy. It is not able to absorb the necessary substances from ordinary soil. After transplantation, the cactus will have to grow new roots that can nourish the body.

Advice! Do not replant the cactus immediately after purchasing it from the store. Changing the microclimate and transplanting will become double stress for him, which can slow down his development and lead to diseases. Wait 1-2 weeks. During this time, the green pet will settle down, and the earthen lump will dry out and become suitable for replanting.

When is the best time to replant?

The opinions of flower growers on the question of when is the best time to transplant cacti are divided. Some prefer the spring-summer period, others prefer the autumn-winter period. In fact, prickly pets can be transplanted at any time of the year, if you take into account some nuances.

Cacti have a growing season (summer) and a hibernation period (winter). During transplantation, the root system always suffers, but it is better for it to recover during the time when the plant is active. Therefore, novice gardeners are advised to transfer it to another pot in spring or summer, regardless of the presence of buds and flowers. Replanting in autumn and winter is also possible, but then the roots may begin to rot.

Advice! To prevent the roots from rotting during the autumn-winter replanting, simply do not water the cactus: it doesn’t care, it’s sleeping.

How often does it need to be replanted?

Due to the slow development of cacti, they do not need annual transfer to a larger diameter pot. The frequency of transplantation depends on the health, age and type of plant. Here are the averaged data:

• cacti in good health under the age of 5 years are transplanted every 2-3 years;
• healthy plants older than 5 years need to be transplanted every 3-5 years.

Mammillaria - fast-growing cacti - are replanted annually. And leisurely plant species like echinocactus can be transferred to a new pot every 3-4 years (or more often to change depleted soil).

Important! If your green hedgehog gets sick, it may need an unscheduled transplant into new soil.

What is needed for transplantation

To transplant cacti you will need:

• new pot;
• nutrient soil;
• drainage;
• trowel;
• durable gloves;
• wide tweezers (forceps);
• container for disinfecting roots;
• hot water;
• sharp scissors;
• shoe box;
• newspaper or rags for drying.

Advice! To replant a large cactus, you will also need a stick for releasing the plant from the old pot and thick foam rubber. You will use it to protect yourself from sharp thorns. You can also grab the cactus using a thick rope twisted from old newspapers or plastic bags.

Preparing for transplant

A few days before transplanting, you need to stop watering. This is necessary so that the earthen ball can later easily come out of the old pot. Despite the fact that the cactus is not the most demanding plant, there are still recommendations for choosing a pot and soil for it. Let's find out what he needs for healthy and active growth.

Choosing a pot

A pot for a cactus is chosen depending on the type of its root system:

• A plant with a tap root needs a deep container.
• A green pet with a cushion-shaped and shallow root system will feel good in wide pots of small depth (bowls).

To choose the diameter of a pot, you need to look not at the size of the cactus’s body, but at its roots. Even with a very massive above-ground part, you cannot transfer the plant into big pot, if the root system is poorly developed. This can lead to a delay in the development of the pet, since it will have to grow roots to develop a huge space. You can’t wait for the growth of stems and thorns, much less flowering. As a standard, choose a container whose diameter is 1-2 cm larger than the old pot.

Attention! A pot that is too large will cause the soil to become waterlogged. This can lead to rotting of the roots and root collar of the cactus.

The container for transplantation can be plastic, clay or ceramic. Experienced gardeners prefer plastic for a number of reasons:

• the material does not allow moisture to evaporate through the walls of the pot, so you need to water the plant less often;
• in it the root system develops better, the roots evenly fill the space;
• the material retains heat well, and cacti are heat-loving plants that grow in the wild in hot deserts;
• plastic pots are lightweight and inexpensive.

Ceramic and clay containers also have their advantages. They are very beautiful and durable. In such pots, moisture evaporates even through the walls of the vessel, so the consequences of overflowing are not so terrible, which is very important in case of inept care. In addition, clay and ceramics are porous materials that absorb chemicals from the soil that are dangerous to plants.

Advice! If you have several cacti, choose one potting material in preference. Then leaving will not cause much trouble. Otherwise, watering schedules for plants planted in different containers will be different. Thus, green pets growing in clay or ceramic vessels will require more frequent and abundant watering.

When growing a large number of cacti, it is better to choose quadrangular pots. They save space on the windowsill without sacrificing the volume of the earthen clod. But the main thing is that both round and rectangular containers must have drainage holes.

What kind of soil is needed?

Requirements for soil for cacti:

• looseness;
• slightly acidic reaction (pH level from 4.5 to 6);
• good water and breathability.

Spiny pets can be transplanted into soil purchased at the store. A universal or special cactus mixture is suitable for this. You can prepare the soil at home. To do this, mix in equal parts:

• loamy soil;
• gravel;
• washed sand;
• crushed charcoal;
• red brick chips.

Attention! The sand must be river sand. The use of quarry sand leads to strong compaction of the earthen coma. As a result, the soil stops allowing air to pass through, does not absorb moisture well, and contributes to the death of roots.

Features of soil preparation for some types of cactus:

• If the plant has white fluff, the substrate for it should be rich in calcium. Add some crushed eggshells to the soil.
• For cereus, replace crushed brick with marble chips.
• For mammillaria, instead of loamy soil, use leafy soil.
• For fast-growing cactus species, the abundance of nitrogen in the soil is important. You can increase its amount in the soil by adding humus to it.

• Young hedgehogs need looser soil rich in nutrients. For them, you need to increase the proportion of leaf soil in the soil.
• Old plants prefer a denser substrate. It can be compacted by adding clay, turf or greenhouse soil.

For drainage purposes you can use:

• small crushed stone;
• expanded clay;
• crushed brick;
• torn foam;
• wine corks cut into pieces.

Important! Do not transfer old drainage to a new pot. It has already absorbed enough salts, so it will no longer be able to protect plants from harmful substances.

Transplantation process

Detailed step-by-step instruction cactus transplants:

1. Wear gloves to avoid getting pricked by sharp thorns.
2. Take the plant pot and place it on its side.
3. If the pot is clay, tap it with a stick so that the earthen ball moves away from the walls. If it is plastic, then you can squeeze it, and then the earth will easily come away on its own.
4. Hold the small plant with tweezers. If the cactus is large, wrap it in thick foam rubber or grab it with a strip of newspaper.
5. Hold the stem with one hand, and with the other slightly rotate the pot in one direction or the other, and then pull it to release the earthen ball.
6. Shake off the old soil, taking care not to damage the roots.
7. Prepare a container with hot (50-55 °C) water and place cactus roots in it to prevent various diseases. The duration of the treatment procedure is 15-20 minutes. Make sure that the root collar of the plant is not immersed in the water.
8. Take out the cactus and place it on paper (rag), wait for the roots to dry.
9. Place the cactus in a shoebox and put it in a dark place for 4 days. The plant should be in an upright position at this time.
10. Take out the plant. Heat the scissors with fire and cut off any diseased, rotten or damaged roots. Send him to rest in the box for another 1-2 days.
11. Place drainage at the bottom of the new pot. The recommended thickness of the drainage layer is 15-30% of the height of the selected container (for 10-centimeter pots 1.5-3 cm).
12. Sprinkle some prepared soil mixture on top of the drainage layer. Place the cactus on it and straighten its roots.
13. Carefully fill the remaining space with soil. Make sure that the root collar remains above the ground. Lightly compact the substrate by tapping the pot and compacting the top layer with your hands. No need to water.

Advice! Tall plants need to be fixed. To do this, the stems are tied to wooden supports, stuck into the ground. The supports cannot be removed until the cactus has taken root in the new pot.

Caring for a transplanted plant

The transplanted flower, without watering, is placed in a place protected from the sun, but warm. The first watering can be done after 14-17 days. It is advisable to add mineral fertilizers designed specifically for succulents along with it. After this, the plant is placed in a well-lit place and continues to care for it in the usual way.

Despite the apparent complexity of replanting a cactus, it is easy to do at home even for a beginner. Understand only the basic subtleties of the process to prevent damage to the flower and provide it with sufficient space for growth and nutrition.

Succulent plants have become widespread in home gardening due to their biological characteristics. They reproduce easily, are unpretentious in watering, and can easily tolerate medium and high dry air. The latter is especially important in indoor conditions. The only "disadvantage" of cacti is vulnerability during transplantation.

The slightest damage leads to the death of the plant. This is due to the high sensitivity of cacti to moisture. Exposure to moisture on an injured root system provokes a rotting process that quickly spreads from the underground to the above-ground part. The decay of an adult specimen also occurs due to microscopic cracks on the surface.

To exclude the possible death of a cactus, it must be taken into account that transplanting succulents is different from flowering deciduous ornamental plants. And if you do something wrong, you can lose your prickly pet.

When is a cactus transplant required?

Young specimens require transplantation annually, and in the fourth and fifth years of life - once every few years, when the old capacity becomes small for the root system. Purchased specimens are grown in a substrate that lacks all the nutrients. If such a cactus is not transferred to a new soil, the plant will have to be constantly fertilized. Otherwise, the prickly succulent will simply wither.

Cactus transplantation is carried out without any strict seasonal restrictions, but taking into account some features:

• in the spring, when the period of active growth begins, and the flowerpot characteristic features becomes too crowded for the overgrown root system;
• in winter, having the opportunity to transfer the specimen to a new container as “painlessly” as possible, since the plant is in a dormant period.

The only nuance to remember is that the time of year affects further care. A cactus transplanted in winter is not watered until the onset of spring.

How to transplant a cactus?

In order for a prickly succulent to successfully take root in a new place, it is necessary to fully understand the features of the transplantation process.

It consists of several stages:

• preparation of a flowerpot and soil;
• extracting a cactus from an old "dwelling" and processing before planting;
• planting in a properly selected container and soil;
• care after transplantation.

Improper execution of any step can cause rotting and further death of the cactus.

Selection of capacity

The new pot must match the root system. The length and volume of the latter completely depend on the type of cactus. The pot is selected so that the roots are located freely, and the distance from the walls is about a centimeter. The easiest way is to take a container three or five centimeters wider than the one in which the plant was contained.
The root of some types of cacti has an impressive length. This complicates the selection of capacity. To fit it, it is allowed to tuck it slightly. It is recommended to take a wider flowerpot, allowing you to leave free space around the underground part of the plant. You cannot choose a pot solely based on the height of the cactus. Many tall specimens have a weak root system. They should be transplanted into small containers, not large flowerpots.
Regardless of the material of manufacture, any flowerpot must be disinfected before transplanting. It is treated either with a special preparation that destroys flower infections, or with alcohol. The container is first dried well, and only then used. The main thing is not to forget about the drainage holes that are made before transplantation.

Plastic or clay pot?

As a temporary “shelter” you can take plastic container. Such pots have a low cost and are easily and simply deformed. This allows you to quickly remove the cactus during transshipment. Plastic is not the most environmentally friendly material. The cactus should be replanted into it only for a certain time, for example, after purchase.

For adult specimens that are replanted every few years, it is better to take a good clay pot. This material is breathable and safe. It is perfect for a prickly pet. The plant will not only feel great in it, but also look beautiful. However, it is not recommended to purchase glazed clay; it does not allow air to pass through.

Preparation of nutrient substrate

Ready-made nutritional mixtures sold in flower shops are rich in all essential nutrients. The downside is that they are too heavy. If you plan to use this soil, it is mixed with fine crushed stone and coarse river sand.

The home-made substrate consists of pine or leaf humus, turf soil from the garden or garden, crushed coal or wood ash, small stones with a diameter of 1-5 cm. The components are taken in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. In order not to sort through the pebbles, you can simply take coarse river sand.
The earth is not sifted. The more heterogeneous it is, the better. The soil mixed with humus is disinfected. Otherwise, pests or mold present in the soil will destroy the cactus root. The substrate is either calcined in the oven or steamed in a slow cooker. The pebbles are first doused with boiling water, and then, together with the ash, they are added to sterile soil.

The prepared soil is left for about a day. The substrate is poured into a pot on top of a 4-6 cm drainage layer of grated polystyrene foam, perlite or broken brick, fine gravel. It does not need to be compacted, as it will subsequently settle.

Removing a cactus from an old flowerpot

You should not touch the thorny succulent with your bare hands. The thorns can hurt your hands. All work on plant transplantation is carried out with gloves. Otherwise, you will have to deal with removing thorns and treating damaged areas of the skin.
Instead of gloves, you can use sponges that prick the thorns. Some gardeners make original paper cuffs by folding newspapers or paper into 6-8 layers. Small specimens are difficult to obtain in a similar way. It is better to purchase special small tweezers sold in flower shops.

To remove a cactus from an old pot, you must follow the following procedure:

1. Stop watering the plant 14-28 days before the intended transplant. Due to this, the soil becomes crumbly and very dry.
2. A clay pot is lightly tapped on the walls using a garden spatula, and a plastic pot is kneaded with your fingers. This is done to separate the earthen clod from the flowerpot.
3. The container is turned over. Hold the cactus with one hand, slowly turn it with the other, and then remove the pot.

If everything is done correctly, no damage will be caused to the root system.

Possible complications when replanting a cactus

The procedure for removing a cactus from a pot can be difficult. This applies to cases where the plant was planted in clay soil mixed with unwashed sand. Such a substrate quickly turns into a mass similar to cement. It is possible to remove the cactus from this earthen lump only after placing it in warm water until the soil is completely saturated with water.

Once the soil has been completely removed from the core system, it is washed. You cannot plant such a plant in new soil right away. It must be dried first. Hanging allows you to avoid caking of the cactus. Total time This procedure takes at least ten hours. However, neither washing nor drying the root should be neglected.

It also happens that a lump of earth grows to the walls of an old flowerpot. If you can’t get it out, then simply cut the soil out of the container using a sharp knife. When this does not allow the lump to be removed, the pot is cut or broken.

Cactus processing

Before planting, the prickly succulent is placed in a special “bath” to protect the flower from diseases and pests. This is due to the fact that over time, mold or even aphids can settle in the rhizome of the cactus.

The bath is prepared as follows:

1. water is poured into an iron can or bowl at a temperature of 50-55 degrees Celsius;
2. cut a hole in a sheet of thick cardboard, put it on the cactus, cleared of soil and dried, so that the root is at the bottom and the neck is at the top;
3. the plant with its rhizome is dipped in warm liquid for a quarter or a third of an hour, removed, and placed on a paper towel;
4. when the water has drained, the prickly succulent is placed in a cardboard or plastic box, which is placed next to a radiator or other heat source for three to four days.

The cactus is taken out of the box on the third or fourth day, inspected, and dried and rotten shoots are removed with a sharp knife, the blade of which is wiped with alcohol or calcined over a fire. Sulfur powder or crushed activated carbon is poured onto fresh wounds. When the cuts dry out and tighten, the plant is returned to the box and left alone for at least another day.

Planting a cactus in a new container

A thin layer of substrate is poured onto the drainage. The cactus is placed on top of the soil, the root system is carefully straightened and distributed inside the pot. The underground part is covered and compacted a little with earth. The neck of the rhizome should remain free, that is, not be covered from above.
The remaining space of the flowerpot is filled with soil. To ensure that it is completely distributed inside the container, the pot is lightly tapped on the walls. The top layer is filled with a little fine expanded clay. If a large and tall cactus is being transplanted, then it is necessary to install wooden sticks. The trunk of the thorny succulent is tied to supports using fabric ropes until the plant is completely rooted.

Features of care after transplantation

The plant is watered for the first time after two weeks. The exception is winter, when the succulent is not disturbed until spring. For fourteen days, the plant is kept in a place inaccessible to the sun. It takes so much time for the rhizome to take root in its new “home”. On the fifteenth day, the cactus begins to adapt to environment. Add a small amount of water to the soil mineral fertilizers. The transplanted plant is placed in a well-lit window a day after feeding.

interesting and perhaps avoid many tragic mistakes common for beginners.

Cacti are very unusual plants, varied inNotto the mind and mind - from round crumbs with huge flowers toand at the top, up to multimeter colossi blooming sparingly and inconspicuously. But it binds themeveryone, well, except for the dissonant name SUCCULENTS - the principles of growing A nia, fundamentally different from the generally accepted rules for the maintenance of room r asthenia.

So, if you decide to get cacti, and before that you grew violets, yuccas, etc. on your windowsill. - FORGET ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND DO EVERYTHING ACCURATELY “REVERSE” This is exactly the most difficult thing for beginning cactus growers.

Based on the proverb reinterpreted in a cactus way; “What is good for the dracaena is death for the cactus!”

Well, then, let's get started...

Transplanting cacti

Let's start with the most delicate moment - transplantation.
You will need:, soil, expanded clay for lower drainage, fine gravel for upper drainage, patience, :-) tweezers and maybe even old leather ones ne gloves so that at the end you can enjoy the fruits of your labor, and not quietly cursing to pull out the numerous thorns with which your favorite cactus will reward you. Although in the absence of such means of “protection”, you can successfully use a towel folded in several layers or something similar. Well, mostly it concerns large cacti.

Transplanting cacti and correct selection soil, the process is very responsible, the further development, growth and flowering of cacti depends on it.

A few days before the planned transplant, the cactus must be dried or, more simply put, stopped watering and spraying if this happens in the summer. In winter, if cacti sleep according to all the rules, then there is simply nothing to dry.Tap the walls of the pot from all sides; if it is made of soft plastic, then squeeze it by the walls several times in a circle so that the earthen ball with roots peels off. The cactus is carefully picked up by the root collar with tweezers and pulled out of the pot. Do not squeeze too hard to avoid damaging the plant. If the cactus is healthy, you don’t have to remove the old soil, but just slightly knead the earthen ball for better air flow to the roots.

This rule does not apply to imported cacti!!! Pulled out of potted cactus purchased at a flower shop, . Otherwise, the probability of death is very high. Poor cacti, accustomed only to nutrient solutions, are not able to obtain the substances necessary for growth from ordinary soil. This same processthe fool “shakes” them and, in essence, a new rooting occurs.Don’t be lazy after the purchase "store" cactus , transplant it immediately ! !

After removing the cactus from the pot, inspect its root system for possible rot and pests, such as mealybugs, which are visible to the naked eye. All affected or damaged parts of the roots must be removed. Pay attention to the structure of the root system of the transplanted cactus. If in front of you is the owner of a taproot or turnip root (photo
left), then this cactus needs deep (high). I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the concept of “deep” is conditional in this case. The fact is that the root system of such a cactus cannot be distributed in a pot and if pot If it is too small, the root will simply rest against the bottom of the pot, which can cause it to rot. That is, the cactus will essentially “stand” on the root, and this is not acceptable. Cacti have a fibrous root systemmine (photo on the right) can be transplanted into any pot of suitable diameter, distributing cotake care of the cactus. Detailed diagram See the landings below.

The cactus must be replanted in a fairly dry place. sterile soil Take a pot for transplanting that is 1 - 2 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Place a layer of expanded clay (about 1 cm) on the bottom to improve the outflow of excess water when watering. But this is provided that the root system of the cactus is well developed and has occupied the entire area of ​​the previous pot. Sometimes during the replanting process it turns out that the roots of the cactus are poorly developed or the shallow root system is a feature of the species. In this case, we leave the pot the same and limit ourselves to changing the soil, and sometimes we even change the pot to a smaller one in accordance with the size of the cactus roots. For a correctly selected pot for a cactus should be no more than 1 - 2 cm larger than the root system. This rule applies to almost all types of cacti, while, for example, echinopsis or cereus can be planted in a larger pot, without damage to the cactus.
One more thing. The cactus tends to settle in the pot due to compaction of the soil, and the drainage layer at the bottom may be too large if you originally planted a very small cactus. In this case, it is enough to remove part of the expanded clay and add soil to the bottom of the pot, planting the cactus almost flush with the edges of the pot. In the photo below, Lobivia rebutioides was transplanted in this way.

This little trick is completely worth it, especially if you have problems with pots and don’t have the next largest pot. I often practice such transplants with small species of young cacti. The cactus receives additional volume for root growth without taking up extra space on the windowsill. Keen cactus collectors, whose window sills are cracking and every centimeter is accounted for, will understand me. :-)

To conclude the topic of replanting cacti, I would like to add a few lines about the soil. I often come across radical recommendations, such as “throw away the old soil after replanting.” I'll report the sedition. I throw in the trash the soil after transplantation, only from cacti that have not been transplanted for a very long time, when it has already acquired a sandy-grayish tint. That is, the cactus “ate” everything that was possible. In other cases, I simply steam the soil in the microwave to kill possible pests and pathogenic microorganisms (along with expanded clay, which I then remove from the soil and use again as drainage), adding 30 - 50% fresh soil ,and planting cacti. And sometimes I plant them completely in old soil, depending on the species. Cacti grow and bloom, they don’t complain about life. The fact is that the correct air exchange of the soil is more important to the cactus than additional humus, and since after replanting the soil is always loose and not compacted, the cacti are quite happy with this. I am not writing unfoundedly. As an experiment, I planted a bowl with two-year-olds, network of Echinopsis Mirabilis , who were literally sitting on each other’s heads. I left one part in the same bowl, with the same soil, I just steamed it and planted cacti so that they would have room to grow. Those who didn’t fit in were planted in another pot with fresh soil. All summer, I vigilantly and with passion examined both plantings in order to detect differences in growth. But, no matter what, the baby cacti developed and bloomed in exactly the same way, regardless of whether the soil was old or new...So, draw your own conclusions, but take into account the appearance of the cactus.

What to do with cactus babies?

One of the most frequently asked questions, which occurs during transplantation
for beginner cactus lovers: "What to do with cactus babies?" My short answer is: don’t do anything. Babies on cacti, they are also shoots, layering, segments, part of the mother cactus. This is a completely natural growth of the cactus, which occurs precisely due to the appearance of the notorious children. Constantly tearing babies off a cactus is like breaking out new branches/shoots on trees or bushes.
At the same time, no one has canceled the vegetative propagation of cacti, and taking a shoot from a friend or from a cactus you like, as you understand, is not forbidden. But do this on purpose, in the hope of best growth or the cactus is not worth blooming, especially since every baby on a cactus is a potential carrier of a flower in the future. And this will not add beauty to the cactus, since after removing the babies, ugly scars remain on the cactus.

Pots for cacti and replanting nuances

Cactus pots, in principle, can be anything, I use plastic, round “technical” ones, although they are not very ergonomic
miraculous. Square pots are definitely more convenientit's in terms ofsave space, although they cost an order of magnitude more.As an alternative to replanting cacti, you can use ordinary seedling pots.(photo from left). Despite their fragility (on average, the service life is 2 - 3 years), these pots have many advantages. Cheap price, variety of sizes, compactness during installation, and most importantly, it is not a problem to buy them, unlike special “cactus” pots. You can choose a pot that is required not only in diameter, but also in depth, which is extremely important when planting cacti with a long tap root,such as astrophyte
minds, turbinicarpus, some types of gymnocalycium, etc. Any garden center has this stuff in bulk. Suitable for both single plantings of cacti and for planting several small cacti (for example, seedlings) with similar cultural requirements (same soil composition, lighting and watering requirements).But when planting several cacti in one pot, keep in mind that this requires more
e frequent transplants. As the cacti grow, they will occupy the entire pot, but this is not scary, but the fact that they will begin to crowd each other and come into contact with each other. If one plant becomes ill, the infection will easily spread to the rest of the cacti in that pot. About dented and deformed spines and violationhabit I'm not even talking anymore.

From my point of view, another constant advantage of the above-mentioned pots is their gutta-percha and.... fragility. Yes, yes, I didn’t make a reservation, it’s fragility. Such pots are easily deformed under the pressure of the powerful root system of the cactus, and in some cases, they simply burst, giving the roots some freedom. A cactus that the caring but very busy hands of the owner did not reach for the purpose of replanting will find itself in such a pot in a more advantageous position than its fellow, in a pot made of hard, unbendable and impenetrable plastic. And even though the pot is ugly, torn and taped, the cacti feel quite good in it, they continue to grow and bloom all season, waiting for them to finally be planted :-).
In the photo below, you can clearly see what cacti can turn pots into if they are not replanted in a timely manner. In a word, they tore them up, like that Tuzik tore a heating pad... and they did it in just a couple of months, I took them to the dacha in normal pots, but I haven’t replanted them for three years.

There is another type of pot, they are quite highly specialized. They are not very cheap, they are often sold in sets of 30 pieces, along with a pallet. But for miniature cacti, like Turbinicarpus or Mediolobivia, there is simply no alternative. The fact is that they themselves
The pots are square, with sides 5 by 5 cm, but their depth is 7.2 cm. So it turns out that the little turbinicarpus, which is an adult, has a size of no more than 3 - 4 cm, but at the same time, even a young one has a root cactus, long, rod 5 - 7 cm, nothing more to plant. If you can’t get such pots, the only way out is to plant several similar cactus miniatures in one pot. standard size, like in the photo above.

The main requirement for pots for cacti is the presence of
a large number of drainage holes. Beginner cactus growers do not pay much attention to this point. As a result, they then write “Look at the photo, my baby cactus is not growing well, and it doesn’t look very good. What about him??" I look..... and I see an amazingly beautiful ceramic pot (with one hole) in the entire photo and in it sits a little cactus, which is in this,
Sorry, it's in the bucket and not visible at all. Accordingly, there is no expanded clay drainage at the bottom. If you remove the unfortunate creature from the pot captivity, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost complete absence of normal healthy roots. Figure 1 shows howit is forbidden plantcactus.

So, avoid planting in large pots. Small cactus planted with lovein a hefty pot, it will develop poorly and has every chance of dying from excessive waterlogging and acidification of the soil. If you don’t have a suitable pot at hand, expanded clay will help solve this problem. Simply increase its layer to the required level, thus reducing the volume of soil in the pot.Do not bury the cactus when planting! In the ground, ideally there should be
only roots and base root neck of a cactus. The cactus doesn't hold up and falls?? It doesn’t matter, the soil is covered with fine gravel on top with a layer of 0.5 - 2 cm, this is the so-called top drainage(Fig. 2), which will hold the cactus in an upright position. With this planting, rotting of the root collar is almost impossible, and it is this that is most vulnerable in cacti.

If the cactus is large, and even tall, then it is better to use large pebbles (any size), the main thing is that they are able to hold the cactus
in a vertical position. They can be used to support the cactus from the side of the rubble and surround it in a circle for stability. Another important point. Very often, in the photos of cacti that are posted in my group on VK, I see that the soil in the pot is chaotically littered with expanded clay. Expanded clay CANNOT BE USED FOR TOP DRAINAGE! This is a very moisture-intensive material that instantly absorbs water after watering, dries for a long time, and prevents the soil itself from drying out. As a result, instead of protecting the root collar from moisture and possible rot, such “drainage”, like a wet sponge, itself serves as a source of this very moisture. Gravel, unlike expanded clay, and any stone, does not absorb water and literally
15 - 20 minutes after watering it dries completely. Benefit from top drainage, exists only if it separates the cactus from the ground, but if you simply throw pebbles into a pot, away from the cactus, then such top drainage will not be of any use, such as decoration for a decorative purpose and nothing more :)

But that's not all. If you have a capricious and impressionable astrophytum asterias or its other varieties, such as superkabuto of all types and stripes, then planting above ground level will be even higher. In this case, the soil should not come into contact with the body of the cactus at all! When planting, neither the root collar, which by the way is almost absent in Astrophytum asteris, nor even the upper part of the root is covered with earth. For more information about transplanting Astrophytum Asterias, see

.

Caring for a transplanted cactus.

The most important rule, failure to comply with which has cost the lives of many cacti.

DO NOT WATER THE CACTUS AFTER TRANSPLANTING.

This is what I would say is the basic rule that beginning cactus growers neglect. Alas, with all the ensuing consequences.

The first watering (if it is not winter) should be done after three days, this is necessary so that the roots damaged during transplantation do not rot.I am the first watering cacti I do it with hot water, but moderately, not until the water flows out of the drainage, and only after another five days I spill it more thoroughly. The cactus needs time to “smell” the water and put out absorbent roots.

This is during a normal transplant, when the cactus is healthy. If during transplantation many roots were removed or signs of fungal infections were found on them, then the first watering should be postponed for at least 7 - 10 days. During this time, the thorn can be touched a couple of times spray hot water. Cacti transplanted in winter are not watered at all, but are kept warm for 3 - 5 days, then sent back to wintering When kept on an ordinary, warm windowsill, even in winter the cactus will have to be watered a little so that it does not become too depleted, but not earlier than 2 - 3 weeks after transplantation. When replanting in spring and summer, do not place the cactus immediately in the sun and heat, for example on a sunny loggia, where the temperature can rise to 40 degrees. This will lead to severe burns and slow down survival. Young, small cacti in such conditions can simply die. So it is better to keep the cactus in the shade until the first watering and the beginning of the growth of the cactus. It is not difficult to determine that the cactus has taken root; it will become noticeably thicker, sagging and folds will disappear, the top of the head will acquire a brighter color.

Transplantation or transshipment can be done at any time of the year; at least not a single death has been registered during my practice during autumn and winter transplants.Most species treat transplantation as such quite calmly. Replanted andbloomingcacti , and cacti with buds, and this did not in any way disturb their biological rhythm (mammillaria, rebutia, astrophytums, fryleys, gymnocalyciums, etc.). buds blossomed, the flowers did not wilt.Moreover, for example, rebutias with buds sent to buyers by mail and spent two weeks or more in dark boxes upon arrival delighted their new owners with their magnificent flowering. But there are types that are more demanding. For example, astrophytums and Brazilian cacti may fall into a state of some “thoughtfulness” after transplantation.Andresume growth only after a certain period of time.Therefore, it is best to replant them in winter, when they are in a state of natural “hibernation”.

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Transplanting a cactus bought in a store.

Having pulled out a cactus purchased from a flower shop from a pot, do not just throw it into a larger pot along with the lump and parasites living in it, but be sure to remove all soil. There are two ways to do this. Clean the cactus roots mechanically with tweezers and
a thin, but not sharp stick, slowly picking out the old soil and straightening the roots. Or wash under running hot water, with your hands or with a soft brush, the second is more suitable for turnip and tap roots. As for the second method, it is certainly simpler and faster, but it is fraught with a lot of pitfalls and is more dangerous for the life of the cactus. So, in order. You can wash the roots of a cactus only when you are sure that any rot is treated with dryness. The next moment, you need to wash the roots completely, leaving no earth on them. Leaving wet soil on the roots will delay the drying process, which again can cause rotting of the roots, even healthy ones (photo on the right, improperly washed cactus roots). In addition, in the resulting mess of roots and peat, there’s really nothing
It is not possible to see either parasites or the condition of the roots. And probably the last thing, if there is high humidity at home, it is better to do without washing and simply mechanically clean the roots, so that prolonged drying does not lead to fungal damage to the roots. After washing, you need to dry the cactus for 1 - 2 days, in a dry, warm, ventilated place. Place it not on film/oilcloth, on which it will float in a puddle of water that has flowed from it, but on paper, which will absorb excess moisture. The dried cactus is planted in dry soil and the first watering is carried out no earlier than a week later. See above for more details on the selection of pots and other nuances of replanting.

In order not to damage the cactus and to replant it correctly, you need to follow certain rules. So, how to replant a cactus:

The first step is to remove the cactus from former tank

• The first step is to remove the cactus from the former container. To quickly do this, you need to wrap the above-ground part with paper in several layers, and then, holding it, turn the pot over and take it out. Another option is to take the cactus in special rubber gloves or kitchen gloves; they are thick enough for the spines to pierce them. If the cactus doesn’t want to get out of the pot, you can pry the soil off the sides with a knife.

Replanting cacti and succulents. Step by step description

Before transplanting succulents at home, you should take care in advance suitable container, stock up on appropriate soil. If the plant has thorns, it is necessary to prepare additional hand protection. In addition to special gloves, when transplanting cacti, pieces of foam or thick cardboard are used.

Preparing the plant

A week before the planned procedure, the succulents stop watering. This allows the soil to dry out and cause less damage to the roots of the perennial when replanting. Remove the plant as carefully as possible, slightly rocking the ground part in a horizontal position. When working with thorns, grab the leaves using dense material.

The removed succulent is inspected for damaged roots. Dried, diseased areas are cut off with a sharp knife and sprinkled with antiseptic. If lumps of earth adhere tightly to the roots, they are carefully washed off with a shower. Adult, healthy specimens can be replanted along with the remaining soil using the transshipment method.

Selection of container and soil

A flower pot for a succulent must have holes for excess water to escape. Additional feature drainage in the natural aeration of the root system. Regarding the material of the bowl, there is no single correct option. In ceramic pots, it is easier to maintain a constant soil temperature. The disadvantage is that salts accumulate on the porous walls of the pottery. Plastic containers do not protect against temperature changes, but are easier to clean and allow you to quickly remove the succulent when replanting.

The size of the bowl matters more. The diameter should be 1-2 cm larger than the root system. Tall succulents are transplanted into a container in accordance with the length of the main root. Leave a space of 2-3 cm free.

Landing

A small layer of small pebbles or expanded clay is placed in the prepared pot. Sprinkle with a thin layer of substrate. Gently spread the roots of the plant over the surface of the soil and cover them with soil again. Press the soil around the roots a little with your fingers to prevent voids from forming. The junction of the above-ground and underground parts of the succulent should be 1 cm above the surface of the earth.

There are many factors that have a direct impact on the watering regime of all indoor plants, and cacti in particular:

Season

From the beginning of spring to the end of September, plants receive enough sunlight and heat, daylight hours last longer. At this time, succulents need more frequent watering. On average, one watering every 1-1.5 weeks is enough for them. In winter, if the flower is in a warm room, the frequency of procedures is reduced to once every 2-3 weeks.

Active growing season

For most cacti it occurs in spring-summer, however, there are exceptions. For example, Schlumbergera cactus and rhipsalis bloom in late autumn and winter, which means they are most active during this period. A resting flower is watered infrequently, and during a cold winter, watering is completely excluded.

Natural habitat

In desert and tropical succulents water regime is different. Tropical indoor cacti require more frequent watering, especially during flowering. Among the common "moisture lovers" can be noted ripsalidopsis, Decembrist and epiphyllum.

The inhabitants of deserts and mountainous regions tolerate the lack of moisture much better and overflow is deadly for them. This group includes the following popular cacti: mammillaria, lobivia, hymnocalyciums.

Temperature

How to water cacti in winter if they are always warm? Less often than usual, since they must rest, but not allowing the earthen coma to dry out completely. The exception is specimens that bloom in winter.

Location

Flowers that stand on the south windows need watering more often than those that are on the north side and receive less heat and light.

How to water a cactus after transplanting. How to plant a cactus

To pull a cactus out of an old pot without hurting your hands on the thorns, it is very convenient to use plastic tweezers. But there is another way - the plant is wrapped with a strip of paper folded into several layers, then the pot with the plant is turned over, and lightly tapped on the bottom, they are taken out. As the famous Zaletaeva I.A. wrote, a healthy cactus must have a very strong root system, and this is defined as follows: if you take the cactus by the trunk and lift it, then it must either rise with the pot, or be taken out of the pot with the whole earthen clod, entwined with roots. If the roots break, some of them remain in the pot, and the rest remain with the plant, then this is a sign that your cactus did not feel well, was sick. Most likely, some conditions of detention were violated, possibly waterlogging, which led to poor growth of the root system, or its decay and partial death.

In the event that the cactus has "been stuck" to the ground and the pot, you need to squeeze the plastic pot with your hands from the sides, or separate the ground with a knife along the wall of the pot.

If, on the contrary, the cactus easily fell out of the old pot, having found scraps of roots, it is necessary to remove all rotten areas, and sprinkle the slices with crushed charcoal. If the root system has been significantly damaged and many roots have been removed, then the new soil mixture should contain more sand, and the pot is selected smaller than the previous one.

Proper planting of a cactus - small pot, top and bottom drainage

Incorrect planting of a cactus - small drainage at the bottom, deepening of the root neck into the ground

Stem rot from constant contact with wet soil

Drainage is poured into the bottom of a new pot, then a little substrate mixed in a bowl, and then the plant is planted, carefully straightening the roots and evenly adding soil between them. There is no need to compact or press the soil hard; you can only knock on the wall of the pot so that the soil falls between the roots. When replanting a cactus, it is important that the stem (trunk, body) is not covered with soil; the soil is only filled up to the root collar. If the stem ends up in the ground, then when the cactus is watered, it will begin to rot, which will lead to the death of the plant, or when it comes into contact with wet soil, suberization begins on the cactus stem - the formation of a dry brown crust. Schematically, the correct transplant is shown in the figure above, which shows a cross-section of the pot (the dimensions and ratios of the pot-cactus are almost life-size). We have already mentioned how to properly water cacti; do not forget that the frequency of watering depends on the temperature.

Since the root collar is narrow, and the stem further expands greatly, the plant will sit quite unstable in the soil. Therefore, you need to strengthen the cactus in the pot by surrounding it with pebbles or decorative stones (from an aquarium store). This is called top drainage. The pebbles should not be too small, as they create a too dense layer, and the soil breathes less well and dries more slowly. It is very difficult to hold long, large cacti with pebbles; then they have to be tied to a support. The pot for large specimens of cacti should not be taken too large, otherwise the soil will turn sour. And so that the pot is stable and does not overturn the prickly giant, a large stone is placed at the bottom of the pot among the usual drainage.

When replanting, it is recommended to shake off old land from the roots of the cactus, doing it as carefully as possible. But if the roots have densely intertwined the earthen lump and formed a kind of root felt, then under no circumstances should you dig out the old soil. It is necessary to transfer it to a new larger pot with the addition of fresh soil. But for cacti bought in a store, it is advisable to shake off all the soil, since they are planted in pure peat, which is in no way suitable for growing cacti. From my own experience I can say that in some cases it is easier to get rid of store-bought soil if it is dry (for large cacti), and sometimes you have to soak the root ball in warm (almost hot water), and then carefully remove the peat fibers from the roots.

After transplantation, healthy cacti are not watered for at least 3 days; if the plant has many damaged roots, then it is not watered for 5-7 days. If the temperature indoors or outdoors is not lower than 20°C, then the cactus can be sprayed with a very fine spray, preventing droplets from forming and flowing to the ground. In addition, a newly transplanted cactus cannot be placed in direct sun; it is usually shaded for 4-6 days.

Young cacti, up to three to five years old, are replanted annually; older plants are replanted every other year. Epiphytic cacti are replanted annually after flowering. Also, after flowering, all cacti that bloom are replanted. in early spring or at the end of winter.

Types of cacti. Classification of cacti

Cacti are classified according to several biological criteria. There are 11 succulent genera and 4 categories (subfamilies). Flower growers who grow cacti do not accept such divisions. They distinguish their “wards” either by their natural habitat or by their appearance characteristics.

Division of cacti according to external characteristics:

• tree-like;
• liana-like;
• herbaceous;
• growing like a bush.

Succulents with thorns are divided into subspecies and, depending on their natural habitat, they are:

• forest;
• deserted.

Wild cacti

All forms of succulents with spines are classified into 4 genera:

1. Opuntiaceae. Prickly pears are a classic house cactus, easily distinguishable from other varieties by their special body structure. Plants of this genus look like thick cakes, the surface of which is covered with small thorns. The spines are a kind of protection against being eaten by wild animals. The prickly pear genus contains various types of cacti, photos and names of which you can see in the article. There are both large and miniature prickly pears that are common throughout the continent. They easily tolerate wintering in open areas. Habitat of prickly pear succulents in Russia: Lower Volga region, Caucasus, Crimea. The flowers of the plants are large and resemble roses. Prickly pears of some varieties bear fruit, their fruits can be eaten;
2. Pereskiaceae. The smallest category of cacti, containing only one representative of the genus. Its name is spinous pereskia. Biologists consider this type of cactus to be transitional between deciduous plant varieties and succulents, completely covered with thorns. Place of growth of succulents of the genus Pereskia: southern and central parts of America. Individual characteristics of the plant: a long stem with small and sparse spines, outwardly resembling a liana; large ellipsoidal leaves; beautiful cream flowers;
3. Cactus. The largest genus, which contains succulent vegetation with a diverse habitat (desert and forest areas, comfortable home conditions). The types of cacti with photos and names from this genus presented in the article are not very similar in appearance to each other. For example, the bodies of desert plant varieties are completely covered with needles. Forest cacti look like segments connected to each other by a thin partition. There are no spines on the surface of their leaves;
4. Mauchienivye. There is only one species in this genus. Its habitat is Patagonia. In terms of external characteristics, it resembles prickly pears, but differs from them in the absence of small spines.

Video on how to transplant a cactus into another pot