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How to build a strip foundation for a house. How to make the right foundation for a house with your own hands: construction secrets

How to make a foundation correctly - many people are interested in this issue, but not everyone attaches great importance to it.

If there are loose soils at the base of the foundation, they should be removed and a sand cushion 15-20 cm thick should be compacted in their place.

This stage of work is extremely important, since the well-being of the future building depends on it.

It is not for nothing that the foundation is considered the foundation, so the future fate of the house depends on what this foundation will be and how it is made.

To build a foundation, the following tools and materials are needed:

  1. Shovel and bayonet shovels.
  2. Water level.
  3. Wood saw or chainsaw.
  4. Hacksaw for metal.
  5. Screwdriver.
  6. Roulette.
  7. Nail puller.
  8. Hammer and sledgehammer.
  9. Boards or plywood that are needed for formwork.
  10. Line level.
  11. Metal rods - will be required for reinforcement.
  12. Container for cement mortar.
  13. The components of the concrete mixture are cement, gravel, sand and water.

Foundation marking

Marking should be taken very seriously, since its significance is to create the outline of a future building. Laying out the terrain does not take much time, but this does not mean that marking is a simple matter. It is necessary to correctly take into account the location of future windows, places for the drainage system, location according to the sun and wind.

Marking is done using a hammer, stakes and rope. You can use reinforcement rods as stakes; the rope should be made of a material that does not shrink or stretch. Fishing line works well.

After this, it is necessary to mark the axis of the building. Using a plumb line, the corner of the building is marked, then two perpendiculars are drawn to two points using a stretched cord. These will be the second and third corners. The last corner of the building is determined using a square.

Reinforcement or stakes are driven into the resulting corners. The stakes must be well fixed and not tilted. After this, the fishing line or cord is pulled. The resulting contour should be rectangular, which can be checked using a tape measure and measuring all sides. Opposite sides will be equal to each other. After this, all angles that must be equal are measured. Then you need to measure the diagonals, and if they are equal, then the building will be truly rectangular in shape with right angles.

Mark not only the external contours, but also the internal ones. This applies to foundation partitions. Upon completion of the layout of the first circuit, the second, internal circuit is laid out. The axes are marked, in addition, the width of the trench is also marked and must be equal along the entire perimeter. When using formwork, you should calculate the width with a margin. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the width of the foundation should not be made smaller than the width of the walls; its minimum width is 40-60 cm.

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Excavation work

Making a hole for the foundation is not a difficult task, but there are some tricks here too. Excavation work must be done after marking has been carried out and demolition has been completed. The cast-off consists of wooden posts, about 130 cm high. Boards are nailed to it. The height above the ground is 60-80 cm. The boards must be nailed from the outside. The areas of the side nailed boards must be parallel to the contour of the building and located on the same line of the side walls. The upper cuts should be located in the same horizontal plane.

In addition, you should calculate the lowest point, which is calculated at one of the outer corners. The depth is calculated based on this angle. This is necessary so that the bottom of the foundations is in the same plane and there is no skewing of the building.

The cast-off is placed at a distance of 2 m from the building. After this, they proceed directly to earthworks. The turf along with the top layer of soil is removed from the area of ​​the plot in a layer of 15-20 cm. In the cleared area, using castings, the location of the holes and is indicated. Next, using a plumb line and tape measure, their contours are indicated.

Following the outlined contours, a trench is dug. To avoid crumbling of the trench walls due to their drying out, the walls can be strengthened with formwork; how to do this will be discussed below. You should start digging a trench from a hill, where the depth will be maximum. Excessive depth of the trench should be avoided; these places must be filled with sand or crushed stone, and then compacted well.

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Preparing a sand bed

A sand cushion is necessary to reduce the load on the lower part of the foundation, which is often necessary during seasonal heaving of the soil. Nevertheless, the sand cushion is designed to save on building materials and raise the floor level above the groundwater level.

It should be said right away that if there are loose soils at the base of the foundation, they should be removed and the freed space should be filled with medium-grained sand. The depth of the sand layer should be no more than 20 cm. It is necessary to ensure that the sand layers are at the same level and that there are no slopes or differences. The filled sand must be compacted while pouring water at the same time. Wet sand compacts better.

Areas with a high groundwater level pose a danger during construction, so it is necessary to equip a sand cushion only after installing an appropriate drainage system. If a sand cushion is flooded with groundwater, it loses its original meaning.

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Manufacturing of formwork

To build the foundation you will need formwork. This is necessary for a section of the foundation that rises above ground level. The formwork is installed along the edges of the trench. It’s not difficult; the process of making it involves knocking together a structure made of wooden boards, plywood, or twisting metal sheets with screws.

Then comes the assembly of the frame, which is best done on the ground, which will allow it to be assembled correctly. A good material would be an edged board; its surface is flat, so the future foundation will also be perfectly flat. This will reduce the cost of finishing the foundation and its front side, saving your precious time. In addition, the width of the edged board has one value, this will allow you to monitor the height of the formwork and bring all sides to the same height.

The assembled formwork panels are connected using nails or screws. It is necessary to pay attention that the heads of the screws or nails should be on the inside of the formwork, while the nails are bent from the outside. The ends of the shields can be fastened with self-tapping screws, this will reduce the number of cracks and save concrete consumption.

To strengthen the formwork, it is necessary to make or install existing supports and pegs from below and above, at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other, securing the outer wall. If it is possible to install more supports, then it is necessary to take advantage of this, since the load on the formwork increases from bottom to top, where the concrete pressure reaches its greatest value.

To achieve an even foundation plane, the upper edge of the formwork should be level. At the moment, reusable metal formwork is gaining popularity, which allows you to make a foundation with perfectly smooth walls.

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Foundation reinforcement

Reinforcement of the foundation involves the creation of a three-dimensional frame along the entire length of the created trench. The frame is rectangles connected to each other at the corners of the building. Like any other type of work in construction, reinforcement includes preparation, which should also be done correctly.

The preparatory stage includes attaching protective material to the inner walls. Parchment is a good protective material. Protection is necessary to prevent the boards that make up the formwork from absorbing moisture present in the concrete. In addition, the protective layer will protect the boards from various types of contamination. At the same time, the perfectly smooth surface of the parchment will give the outer walls of the foundation the same evenness.

To create a concrete pouring level from above, from the inside of the formwork, a regular fishing line is used. Using a spirit level, level the fishing line in a horizontal plane. As for the reinforcement, it should have a 12 mm cross section.

The reinforcement is placed inside the concrete foundation at a distance of approximately 5 cm from the edges. For this purpose, you can use bricks that are laid at the bottom of the formwork. It must be positioned so that the grate is entirely inside the concrete mixture. The reinforcement is laid on the bottom of the formwork in two rows, the distance between it and the walls of the formwork is 5 cm. The reinforcement must be solid, in other words, it is the skeleton of the building. Then the deep and transverse lintels are attached, forming a grid of reinforcement.

In order to secure the reinforcement, welding can be used, but since the surfaces of the foundation can move independently of each other, there is no need for such coupling. Thus, it is best to couple the reinforcement using a binding wire.

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Installation of foundation ventilation

The element is an important nuance of laying the foundation. To do this, care should be taken to create vents - ventilation holes that are located along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The design of vents must be carried out before construction begins; the number of holes must be determined. Factors such as soil type, laying depth, average temperature difference, and wind direction are taken into account.

The terrain and the location of the house in a lowland or on a hill also play a big role. For normal ventilation, two ventilation holes from opposite walls of the base will be sufficient. This condition is suitable for a house located on a hill, but if the building is located in a lowland, then the entire perimeter of the foundation should be equipped with vents.

The presence of normal ventilation is necessary to create sufficient humidity and a normal climate. This will preserve the floors and floor beams on the first floors, preventing the formation of mold. For this purpose, the ground along the entire perimeter of the building is covered with sand with a layer of approximately 15 cm. To reduce the formation and impact of moisture in the ground, the layer of sand should be covered with roofing felt and covered with a little crushed stone.

To install ventilation holes, parts of an asbestos-cement pipe with a cross-section of 10 cm must be secured to the reinforcement beforehand. The pipes must be adjacent to the formwork. Fastening is provided using binding wire. The internal cavity of the asbestos-cement pipe should be filled with sand to avoid concrete mortar getting into it.

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Creation of communications

When creating the foundation, you should take into account possible communications such as water supply, heating systems, electricity, and sewerage. Therefore, even at this stage, it would be correct to allocate space in advance for possible outputs and inputs, holes for pipes and other communications.

To conduct electricity into the house, the foundation must have a communication outlet. The basis for it can be an ordinary metal pipe, with which it will be easy to make. It should be attached to the reinforcement grid, like asbestos-cement, using a binding wire. But in this case, the length of the pipe is greater than the width of the foundation, and its ends go into the ground.

The depth of laying communications depends on what communication branches need to be made. Different climate zones will have different depths of soil freezing. For temperate latitudes, the depth of soil freezing is 1 m, which is greater than the depth of laying the foundation. The depth of laying the pipes will be greater, for this reason it makes no sense to make any bends in the foundation for water pipes.

The strip foundation has proven itself to be a reliable and durable foundation for any type of building. Due to its versatility and relatively low price, this type of foundation is widely used in the construction industry. Having in your arsenal basic knowledge in construction, a set of necessary tools, technical means and a great desire, you can easily turn into reality the idea of ​​​​building a strip foundation with your own hands. You will learn how to pour a strip foundation with your own hands without experience and organize the work correctly from our step-by-step instructions.


Before you begin preparatory work, you should decide for yourself what type of strip foundation you prefer to see as the basis of your future building. There are two types of strip foundations:

  • Shallow;
  • Recessed.

The first type of strip foundation is suitable for those who want to save their time and money. The construction of a shallow foundation does not require deep trenches. It is an excellent solution for the construction of small buildings. Experts recommend giving preference to a shallow strip foundation when building structures such as:

  • Wooden houses;
  • One or two-story buildings made of foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks;
  • Frame buildings using Canadian construction technology;
  • Monolithic structures with permanent formwork;
  • Small stone buildings.

The depth of this type of foundation does not exceed 50 cm.

A recessed strip foundation is suitable for buildings with heavy walls, concrete covering and an underground garage or basement. When choosing this type of foundation, it is necessary to correctly calculate its depth. To do this, it is enough to determine the level of soil freezing and subtract 30 cm from this value.

Preparatory work

At this stage, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan for subsequent work, bring all construction materials to the site and place them near the work site. You should also carry out calculations of the required materials, as well as dimensions. In this case, specialized online calculators will come to your aid.

Marking

Probably the most important stage in the construction of any type of foundation is marking the land plot. Before starting it, it is necessary to clear the entire surface in the area of ​​the future foundation from debris and cut off the top layer of soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, which will help to avoid biological processes of decomposition of organic matter. After arranging the construction site, you can proceed directly to marking. For this:

  1. A peg, which can be a piece of reinforcement, marks the location of the first corner;
  2. From it, using a vertical and plumb line, mark the position of the second and third corners;
  3. A string is also pulled from the second and third corners and the fourth corner is determined;
  4. Having measured the diagonals and made sure that the angles are set correctly, a rope is pulled between the pegs;
  5. Stepping back from the resulting marking inward at a distance equal to the thickness of the future foundation, mark the internal contour.

Having finished marking, we begin digging a trench. To do this, we select the lowest point of our marking and from it we count the remaining depth, using the building level. For a small building, a depth of 40 cm will be sufficient, and only a shovel will be enough to dig a trench, although you can easily use the services of an excavator.

Educational video about markup:

Foundation cushion and waterproofing layer


So, the trench is dug, and the next step is to settle the sand bed with a mixture of gravel. This pillow is covered in layers, each of which is watered and compacted. According to standards, the thickness of the entire layer must be at least 15 cm. A waterproofing film is placed on the pillow as a protective layer. A rough concrete mortar can also serve as an alternative, but in this case you will have to wait a week until it hardens.

Installation of formwork

Dimensions of formwork for foundation

The formwork materials can be planed boards, slate, moisture-resistant plywood and oriented strand board (OSB). The formwork is installed vertically to a height of 30 cm, which will allow for the construction of a basement in the future. In order to subsequently install the sewer pipe and water supply, asbestos concrete pipes are laid in the formwork. If you want the formwork material to be able to be used after the foundation has been poured, place a plastic film between the formwork and the concrete. Dismantling of the formwork is carried out 6 days after pouring the concrete.

Laying reinforcement


The reinforcement for laying in a trench with a cross-section of 1-1.2 cm is fastened with a special knitting wire so that cells with sides of 30 to 40 cm are formed. It is not advisable to use welding to fasten the reinforcement, since corrosion may subsequently form at the coupling points. The optimal distance of reinforcement from the edges of the formwork is 50 mm. This placement is the most effective in a monolith. Instead of steel reinforcement, fiberglass reinforcement can be used, but its characteristics must be equivalent.

Pouring concrete


The concrete solution is poured gradually and in layers of 15 cm from a height of no more than 1.5 meters. Each layer is compacted with a wooden tamper or deep vibrator, which increases the overall density.

You can buy concrete for the foundation or make it yourself. In the latter case, the proportion of cement, crushed stone and sand is 1:3:5. If work is carried out at temperatures below 00C, then a concrete heater is used, and potassium chloride or table salt is added to the solution.

Completion of work


The poured concrete is covered with a film and left for at least 2 weeks, during which it will gain strength. If work takes place in hot weather, the hardening concrete is sometimes watered with water so that the cement continues to gain strength and does not turn into dust. It is possible to erect the walls of a building on a do-it-yourself strip foundation only after the concrete has completely matured.

The basis of any structure is the foundation. The stronger and more correctly it is installed, the longer any building will last.

But to make a high-quality base, you need to spend a lot. The third part is the cost of the building - this is the average price of a good foundation.

Therefore, to save budget, many people want to know how to make a foundation with their own hands.

First you need to choose the type of foundation, because there are several types: strip foundation, columnar, pile and slab options. We will explain below how they differ from each other.

Strip foundation

The most versatile and frequently used type of building foundation is a strip foundation. It cannot be used only in permafrost and for structures “on water”.

The essence of the foundation is a closed strip - the base, stretching along the perimeter of the building and in place of the load-bearing internal walls. The photo of the foundation clearly shows that the thickness of the strip should be the same in all areas.

Such a foundation is suitable for any building and allows you to build a high-quality basement or ground floor.

The supply of housing communications at the base can be positioned as conveniently as possible for their operation.

The main disadvantage of this type of foundation is the large amount of excavation work and building materials.

Columnar foundation

For small buildings, to save materials, it is recommended to use a columnar foundation. It allows you to provide a high-quality foundation for a lightweight building with less time and effort.

The foundation for a house consists of pillars at the points of maximum load of the building (corners, on long sections with calculated steps, under load-bearing walls).

You can build supports from brick, concrete, or even wood (only rot-resistant wood - larch, for example). The depth for the pillars is selected taking into account the material and type of soil.

After installing all the supports, you need to tie them into a single system for greater strength.

The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of founding a basement. The base is not suitable for heavy buildings; unstable soil types also preclude its use.

Pile foundation

The foundation of a house on stilts is similar to a columnar foundation, but it is not. The main difference is the depth of the supports. Due to their small diameter compared to the pillars, holes for piles are not dug, but drilled. This allows you to install the supports to greater depths and dig them into more stable rocks.

Otherwise, the technology for placing and tying supports is identical to the columnar foundation.

The main disadvantage of this base is the use of special equipment. However, recently piles with a screw at the end have begun to appear, which allows them to be screwed into the rock like a self-tapping screw. This is what made the piles accessible to the layman.

Slab foundation

One of the most rarely used types of foundation. Reinforced slabs are usually used more often for roads and boulevards, but some people also use them as a foundation for a house.

To create it, a gravel-sand cushion is first poured, after which reinforcement is placed and the foundation is poured. This creates a “floating” foundation for the house.

The advantage of such a basis is independence from the type of soil and its freezing in winter.

But there are many more disadvantages: the impossibility of creating a basement, the difficulty of connecting communications, the high consumption of materials, and the possibility of construction only on level ground.

Now we will tell you in detail about the creation of a strip foundation, as the most common and universal in construction.

Foundation construction plan

To build a reliable and strong foundation, a lot of calculations will be required. Knowing the future dimensions of the structure, you need to calculate the depth of the foundation and its width.

And here we will make an important clarification. It is best for a specialist to independently calculate these parameters. The fact is that the correctly calculated depth and width of the foundation determines whether the foundation of the future building, and therefore your life, will support it or not.

There will be a lot of nuances when calculating, but only professionals know them. For small buildings, if you decide to do without calculations, the depth of the building will be small and the width will be a multiple of 100 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for building a foundation

  • Mark the territory.
  • Carry out excavation work (dig trenches).
  • Create a bed of sand and gravel.
  • Make formwork for the foundation.
  • Lay the future foundation with a reinforcement belt.
  • Provide ventilation (if necessary) using pipe sections.
  • Pour concrete.
  • Smooth the surface until it hardens.
  • After a week, remove the formwork.
  • After another 3 weeks, the concrete will completely harden and waterproofing can be done using roofing felt and hot bitumen.
  • Lay a brick plinth on top of the concrete and waterproof it.

The foundation is ready!


DIY foundation photo




There are many technologies in construction that make it possible to form a reliable, stable and durable foundation of a residential building - its foundation part. Let's figure out what the advantages and features of the poured method are, and get acquainted with step-by-step instructions on how to make a strip (that is, poured) foundation yourself.

Pouring the foundation for a house with your own hands

Real construction conditions influence the choice of technology

The decision to choose a foundation construction method is made based on the characteristics of the soil. Poured (tape) technology is appropriate only if the construction of a house is carried out in non-subsidence soils. If there are peat bogs on your site, the ground is saturated with water and is clearly swampy - a flooded foundation is not for you.

Strip foundation

A high-quality poured foundation can be made even without being a professional, if you follow the sequence of actions recommended by experienced craftsmen. Filling is a relatively simple, profitable, financially accessible technology that has been proven for decades.

Calculation of a strip foundation for a house

Even in an area with complex terrain, it is easy to create a guide trench and it is not at all necessary to strive for zero error when determining the level of its bottom - when pouring, the liquid solution fills all the voids (in contrast to the requirements for level accuracy if the foundation is created from slabs or blocks). Strip foundations are ideal for low-weight structures: frame-type houses, timber or logs.

Video - Poured Foundation

Start of work: digging a pit or trench

Step one. Decide on the area that the future foundation should cover with its outer perimeter. Before the excavator begins excavating the soil, markings are made (wooden stakes, posts, etc.).

Marking for strip foundation

The thickness of the foundation (thickness of the tape, selection of reinforcing elements) depends on the weight load that is expected from the house being built. Experienced builders and technologists know how to correctly calculate the width and depth of a trench, taking into account the characteristics of the main building. It is recommended to consult with specialists in order to further avoid overloads that could lead to the destruction of the foundation.

Step two. It is important to decide in advance whether you will have a basement space or not. If you want to have a basement or storage area under the house, you will have to dig a wide pit in which the poured foundation will act as walls. However, most often strip foundation is practiced in small depths and basements with a low ceiling are of little interest to anyone, so it is not the foundation pit that is relevant, but the trench.

However, the choice of “pit or trench” is influenced by another factor - the size of the future structure. When the area of ​​the future building is small (say, 5x8 m or 7x9 m), it is more convenient to use a solid pit with an internal approach to the foundation. Subsequently, the void is filled with selected soil or tightly filled with construction waste. On larger sites (from 10x12 m), it is advisable to dig a long trench and not touch the soil at all from the inner perimeter.

Step three. The trench should be slightly wider than the future wooden formwork (form for pouring concrete). The gap is necessary as space for free access to the formwork and to ensure maneuverability of working tools. The most common trench width is about 25-35 cm.

Marking the foundation of a garden house

Approximately the same depth of the foundation along its lower part, provided that the terrain is relatively flat. In places where the relief is lower, it is advisable to keep this figure to a minimum, and where there is an increase in relief, the body of the foundation will be buried much more deeply into the ground. At the planning stage, it is necessary to take into account the curvature of the construction site and make a careful calculation of the difference between the highest and lowest levels of relief.

Attention! In case of uneven terrain, the bottom of the trench is made level, but in no case inclined, not “repeating” the relief slope! In other words, the concrete strip should have the same height everywhere, since the vertical load on the foundation from above from the side of the future house is uniform.

Creation of a flood channel - formwork, cushion, reinforcement

Step one. Shields are made from wooden boards, which are installed vertically and form a pouring channel. Use substandard wood, wood waste, etc. It doesn’t matter what the formwork looks like from the outside - the main thing is that the inside of the boards is as smooth as possible.

Formwork for strip foundation

The opposite walls of the formwork are pulled together in several places with temporary fasteners, secured vertically from the outside and additionally supported by inclined blocks - so that when pouring a heavy concrete mass, the formwork walls are not torn apart and the shape of the poured foundation remains unchanged.

The opposite walls of the formwork are pulled together in several places using temporary fasteners

Step two. Sand is laid out at the bottom of the trench in a uniform layer, the thickness of which depends on the individual characteristics of the building under construction - 4-5 or 8-10 cm. The task of the sand cushion is to provide natural shock absorption. After all, even on stable soils, movements in the ground that are invisible to the eye occur.

It is advisable to isolate the sand from the concrete mortar with some kind of linen material of a synthetic composition (so that the process of decomposition does not begin inside the concrete pouring. Insulation allows you to retain moisture and cement laitance in the concrete, thereby preventing the foundation from becoming more fragile.

Step three. Reinforcement is placed inside the filling channel. The most common for these purposes is reinforced mesh; the costs for it are usually included in the estimate. An iron rod is also used. The optimal thickness of bar elements is 8-12 mm. In private construction, any long, flat metal objects (cuts of metal pipes, fragments of old iron beds) are often used.

Reinforcement is placed inside the pouring channel

Attention! Do not weld reinforcing elements under any circumstances. Just tie them together (use wire or special fasteners sold in stores). Welding takes away the plasticity and protection from ruptures from the foundation during those minor movements in the soil that are natural with changes in temperature, humidity, and shrinkage of the house.

Do not weld reinforcing elements under any circumstances.

Preparation of mortar, pouring concrete

Step one. When purchasing concrete, give preference to brands M-200, M-250 and M-300. Typically, the construction of private houses and buildings involves such volumes that a small concrete mixer is enough. In it, the concrete mixture acquires the necessary mobility (in other words, consistency). The poured mass is easily distributed inside the formwork and carefully fills the smallest air cavities.

Concrete M-300

The composition of the solution is best agreed upon with specialists who have construction experience in your region and are well versed in the characteristics of dry concrete. There is an easy way to check the viscosity of concrete (its mobility) manually: scoop up a handful of the solution and squeeze it tightly in your fist, then unclench your hand. If all the water has left, the concrete solution is not entirely successful - it has low mobility, and when it hardens, there is a high probability of small cracks forming inside the foundation. If there is concrete milk (mush) left on your hand, the mixture is prepared perfectly! The foundation of such concrete will be dense, ductile, and durable.

Concrete mixer

Step two. It is undesirable to fill during rain and snow (sometimes construction is carried out in spring or autumn, when there is light precipitation - at this time it is better to cover the formwork and wait for the weather to clear). Pour concrete in such portions that in one cycle the entire area at the bottom of the formwork is filled. Ideally, you need to start work in the morning, so that by lunchtime or evening you can fill the entire box layer by layer.

Attention! Sometimes on large areas the foundation is poured in parts. Keep the same principle: layer by layer horizontally, but never “side by side” vertically. Remember that the weight load of the house on the foundation is always directed from top to bottom.

Step three. In hot weather (temperatures above +19...+22 °C), it is necessary to periodically pour water over the foundation. This will improve its strength when setting concrete. When the formwork box is completely filled with mortar, you should wait 25-30 days for the concrete to gain maximum strength.

However, the first construction work on the house without serious weight loads can begin within 10-15 days after pouring the foundation. At this stage, the concrete has gained about 75% strength, and there is no point in wasting time.

Pouring strip foundation

Step four. After the foundation concrete has completely hardened, the formwork can be removed, but the process of creating the foundation is not over. Be sure to make a concrete blind area around the outer perimeter of the house.

The meaning of the blind area:

  • prevent contact of the foundation with rain and melt water;
  • protect the foundation soil from moisture accumulation;
  • move the winter freezing zone away from the house.

Monolithic reinforced blind area

Blind area of ​​strip foundation

Don’t forget to also build drainage structures on the roof and along the walls of the house. After all, even the strongest foundation is not immune to decomposition processes that can occur over time if water and moist fumes are allowed to unimpededly affect concrete.

The construction of the foundation must be taken extremely seriously, because this is the basis of the future home, its strength will depend on it.

Types of foundations.

There are several types of foundations, but the most popular of them is the strip foundation. The reason for such unusual popularity is extremely simple: inexpensive materials, ease of reinforcement, and also the fact that anyone can do it themselves once all the nuances of how to pour the foundation for a house have been studied.

Ribbon structures are used mainly in those houses that plan to have a basement. In other words, it is ideal in our case. But such construction is a very responsible procedure for which you should properly prepare.

Introductory video - types, types and secrets of pouring a foundation for a house

Preparation.

Stage one.

We mark the area where the foundation will be built. For this we need fishing line and several pieces of reinforcement. Such markings should be made either in full accordance with the dimensions of the future house, or ten centimeters wider (to make digging convenient).

At the same time, it is worth remembering that not only the back side is marked, but also the inside (the best distance is about forty centimeters, so you will be as comfortable as possible when digging).

Stage two.

When the markings are ready, you should not rush to start digging a trench. First, it is better to check the diagonals, because they must coincide with each other.

Let's start building the foundation for the house

Stage one.

Digging a pit. In principle, everything is very clear here, so we will not expand on this topic.

Stage two.

The main load will fall on the lower area of ​​the foundation, so we must soften it. This could be, for example, ordinary sand, with which we fill the bottom of the pit, and then compact it thoroughly, periodically pouring water on the sand.

The pouring of the foundation must fully comply with all the requirements, so we build a special formwork (for this, ordinary cut planks are suitable for us). Such a simple move will soon significantly reduce the cost of leveling the foundation walls.

Moreover, you will be able to control the height of the formwork. When the board has fulfilled its function, do not rush to throw it away - it will serve you well as a rafter.

Stage three.

We nail the formwork together with nails or tighten it with screws, it doesn’t matter. The only thing to remember is that when using nails, the caps must be on the outside. In this case, the walls of our foundation will be quite smooth, and dismantling after the mortar has hardened will be significantly simplified.

Stage four.

Don't forget about sewer holes. You need to take care of them in advance, because if you make holes after the base has hardened, the solidity of the structure will be grossly violated.

We also said that for greater strength it is necessary to use metal reinforcement, which should consist of two rows. In order for it to be securely fastened, you need to use a knitting wire - it will perfectly fasten the jumpers together.

But if you do not have such wire, you can use welding (although we do not recommend this technique, since it can later lead to rusting).

In addition, the foundation will be more reliable if the reinforcement is installed crosswise and lengthwise. When the formwork is finished, we check the structure for strength (otherwise it may shift after pouring).

Stage five.

To build our foundation, it is best to use lightweight concrete, and the reinforcement should be made of fiberglass. After this, perhaps, the stage of preparatory work ends. Next is the actual filling.

And here you may have a completely adequate question: how to pour the foundation for a house correctly? First of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution that will be used.

What should we know about pouring a foundation ourselves?

Before starting the pouring process, make sure that the solution is thick enough (if not, dilute it with water). It is advisable to first acquire a deep vibrator - this will contribute to the uniform distribution of concrete throughout the entire volume of the foundation. In addition, this removes air bubbles, which could subsequently cause structural failure.

You should also determine in advance the level at which the concrete will be poured. When it is poured, the surface is leveled and all irregularities are removed using a regular trowel.

If you carry out work in cold weather, it is necessary to use special additives that accelerate the hardening process. It is advisable to fill the entire area within one day, no need to delay.

What is needed to properly harden the foundation for a house?

The approximate hardening time for concrete is two weeks. And all this time you need to carefully care for it: moisten the surface if it dries out too quickly, cover it with polyethylene in case of rain.

After seven days, we cover the entire surface of the structure with bricks - this will displace the resulting voids.

As for the formwork, it can be removed after three days. And finally, when all the time is gone and the solution is completely dry, you can proceed to the next stage - constructing the base, but this article, alas, is not about that.

In the end, I would like to add a few words about the restoration of the foundation: it needs to be done in several stages, because creating a foundation under a finished structure is much more difficult than from scratch. But in general, we have looked at how to lay the foundation for a house.

Video lesson on pouring a foundation alone

Construction of the foundation is the most important stage in creating your home, since the reliability of the future structure depends on it. That is why, before starting work, it is necessary to learn about all the features of such work. But first you should choose the type of foundation on which the house will be installed. In certain circumstances, you can build a house without a standard foundation with your own hands.

Strip foundation

Before pouring the foundation of a house, it is necessary to consider the features of different types of foundations. The most common are strip structures. This type of base is the most common. It has several advantages:

  • the ability to build the foundation with your own hands;
  • low cost of materials;
  • possibility to create a basement;
  • foundation strength;
  • durability.

It is worth remembering that such a foundation cannot be laid on heaving soils that are prone to flooding. You can find out about the type of soil on the site from organizations that are engaged in geological exploration. Only after this can you begin to create the foundation for the house with your own hands.

Important! It is worth finding out information about the depth of water not only to create a house foundation, but also to correctly plan the creation of a well or well.

It is worth remembering that laying such a foundation for a house is a complex process, but with careful attention to each stage of creating the foundation, you can do everything yourself.

Pillar foundation

This type of foundation for a house is chosen if the site is located on heaving soil, if the freezing point is located deep enough. The strip base on moving soil quickly deforms, and the pillars can be used for several decades.

The advantages of this type of foundation for a house include:

  1. High speed of work. If you have several workers, you can create a columnar base in just a few days.
  2. Saving money. Due to the fact that a small amount of material is spent on creating pillars, you can save a large amount.
  3. Possibility to do all the work yourself. In this case, there is no need to attract heavy construction equipment and hire workers.
  4. The ability to install a house on unstable soil, the freezing depth of which is quite large.

When choosing this type of foundation, it is worth remembering that the marking sequence is similar to when creating a strip foundation.

Pile foundation

The choice of pile foundation is carried out in several cases:

  • if the soil is plastic and contains clay;
  • when the soil contains dust particles with a small amount of lime and clay;
  • if the soil is floating.

Often the use of piles is due to the fact that the site is located on heaving soil. Also, such a foundation for a house can be created in a situation where there is no possibility of spoiling the natural landscape. In addition, piles are often installed to reduce the construction period of a house.

The advantages of a pile foundation include:

  • lower cost of creating a foundation;
  • reduction of construction time;
  • the opportunity to refuse to carry out “wet work”.

It is worth noting that a house on a pile foundation can stand for the same period of time as buildings on other types of foundations.

Disadvantages of a pile foundation:

  • increased cost of design work;
  • a horizontal tie made of wood, metal or reinforced concrete structure must be installed on the piles;
  • difficulties during the creation of the foundation when taking into account the non-standard landscape.

Before building a foundation of this type, it is necessary to take into account all the features of the site and consult with professionals.

Marking the strip base

Having chosen a strip base for a house, you need to correctly mark the area. Many site owners prefer to entrust this work to professionals. This is due to the fact that this work requires precision in all actions. When creating markup yourself, you need to consider several points:

  1. The width of the base should not be 20 cm greater than the width of the walls.
  2. When designing the foundation, it is necessary to plan in advance exactly where the windows and doors will be. This is necessary in order to make reinforced concrete reinforcement in certain places.
  3. You also need to determine the axis of the building. To do this, first measure the first angle, and then measure the remaining angles of the future foundation along it. The correctness of the angles can be checked by measuring the diagonals, which should be equal.

It is worth remembering that level ground is not important for a strip base, but when installing it, it is necessary to maintain a horizontal position. If marking the foundation with your own hands is done correctly, the foundation will be durable and reliable.

Digging a trench

After marking the foundation for the house with your own hands, you need to dig trenches for the strip foundation. If a pile foundation has been chosen, wells are drilled at this stage. The walls of the trench being created are reinforced with boards, which will serve as formwork for the strip foundation.

When creating trenches, it is worth remembering that their bottom should be below the freezing level of the soil. The minimum possible distance between these levels is 20 cm.

It is worth remembering that before pouring the strip foundation, it is necessary to create a sand cushion. After falling asleep, the sand is compacted and spilled with water. It is worth remembering that a waterproofing tape material is laid on top of the sand.

Reinforcement

Since the building creates a large load on the foundation, the cement mixture itself cannot support it without reinforcement. Reinforcing elements do not allow the material to deform under the influence of compressive forces.

Metal rods connected to each other with wire are used as the “skeleton” of the foundation. The foundation must contain both vertical and horizontal reinforcing elements. The elements are connected using metal wire or welding.

Pouring concrete

When creating the base, you need to remember that the solution must be prepared immediately before pouring into the trench. If a ready-made mixture is ordered, it is delivered to the site in a concrete mixer. If the solution is made independently, you should mix one part of cement with three parts of sand and five parts of medium-sized crushed stone. It is important to choose purified sand.

Concrete should be poured evenly around the perimeter. During pouring, you need to carefully ensure that no voids form in the solution. Their appearance can lead to the fact that the structure will be unreliable and the foundation will crack when installing the house. After pouring, compact the concrete using a vibrating plate or similar device. In summer, the strengthening of the foundation lasts about a month. To make a durable foundation for a house with your own hands, you must follow all the rules described.

How to strengthen an old foundation

If during inspection of the base you notice that it has cracks or depressions, you need to begin strengthening the foundation, since such signs indicate that the base has begun to collapse.

To determine whether destruction has begun, it is necessary to stick paper tape across the crack. After this, you need to monitor her for two weeks. If after this period it remains intact, this will indicate that the foundation is not destroyed. Such a defect can be repaired by pushing crushed bricks into it and pouring concrete.

If the tape breaks, this will be a sign of destruction of the base. It is worth remembering that you can only strengthen the foundation yourself. The foundation can only be completely repaired using expensive equipment.

To strengthen, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • shovels;
  • metal or asbestos-cement pipes;
  • plaster patches that will act as beacons;
  • cement mortar;
  • wooden planks.

First, beacons are installed on the cracks, and the date of installation is recorded on them. If the rupture occurs quickly, it is necessary to dig a hole next to the foundation, the slope of which should be 35 degrees. Digging occurs to the depth of the bedded stone.

After this, a pipe is inserted, the diameter of which is approximately 15-20 cm. Then concrete solution is poured into the pipe. If the solution does not go away within 2 hours, the filling stops. In this case, resumption of filling can be continued after two days. This process must be repeated at least three times. After this, beacons are again installed on the cracks. If they rupture again, the described steps must be repeated. A repaired foundation can last a long time.

Having considered all the information presented on how to make a foundation with your own hands (video and photos), you can perform all the steps without the involvement of professional builders.

In essence, a strip foundation is a monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete strip running under all the load-bearing walls of the house. This structure collects loads from the structure and transfers them to the ground. This type of foundation is most often used when constructing a country house, cottage, garage or small outbuilding. The reason for the popularity of this type of structure is its ease of construction, reliability and reasonable price. You can make a strip foundation with your own hands if you know the manufacturing technology, the features of the device and some nuances. Step-by-step instructions from our article will help you complete this type of foundation. And thanks to photos and videos, it will be easier for you to understand the features of the manufacturing process.

Area of ​​use of the strip base

Strip foundations are used in the construction of the following buildings and structures:

  • It is suitable for a house with massive load-bearing walls made of stone, brick or monolithic concrete.
  • If the composition of the soil on the site is uneven and there is a possibility of shrinkage of building structures, then installing a strip foundation under the house will help protect the entire structure from cracks and uneven settlement.
  • Pouring a strip foundation is often used when constructing a house with a basement or ground floor.
  • A shallowly buried strip base can be used when building a house made of wood, foam blocks, or when constructing a frame structure.

The service life of such a base depends on the material from which it is made. Thus, solid monolithic strips made of rubble or reinforced concrete can last up to 150 years. Brick structures are the most short-lived and will last up to 50 years. And prefabricated belts made of reinforced concrete blocks can perform their functions for 75 years.

Types of design solutions

The manufacturing technology of the strip base may differ slightly depending on the design and type of foundation. They come in the following types:

  1. Solid monolithic structures carried out directly on the construction site. If you decide to make a strip foundation with your own hands, then this option is most suitable, since installation does not require the use of lifting equipment. These structures are more durable compared to prefabricated foundations. But installation takes more time, since you need to assemble the formwork, install the reinforcement cage and wait almost a month for the concrete to completely harden. The photo below shows an example of a monolithic foundation strip.
  2. Prefabricated structures assembled from ready-made factory reinforced concrete blocks and foundation pads. In this case, the pillow can also be prefabricated or monolithic. The main advantage of such structures is that the technology of assembly from ready-made products allows you to significantly speed up the work and not wait for the concrete to set before starting to lay the walls. However, its price will be higher, since you will have to use lifting equipment. You can see a photo of the prefabricated base below.

In addition, the technology for manufacturing strip structures involves dividing foundations into two types:

  1. Shallow foundations. This type is suitable for houses made of lightweight materials - foam blocks, wood, as well as for frame construction and for one-story brick buildings with thin walls. When constructing such a foundation, the laying depth does not exceed 0.5-0.7 m.
  2. Recessed structures are erected during the construction of a house with load-bearing walls made of stone, brick or reinforced concrete. Also, such foundations are used in the construction of buildings with basements and ground floors.

Important: buried structures are stronger and more reliable, since the foundation is constructed below the freezing point of the soil. As a result, the tape is not subject to deformation. However, the financial costs and labor costs for such a design are much higher.

Peculiarities

Before you make a strip foundation with your own hands, you should learn about some construction nuances:

  • It is better to build the foundation of a house in the warm season. Then you will not need expensive construction equipment, as well as frost-resistant additives in concrete.
  • If your site has sandy soil and low groundwater, then the strip base can be installed above the freezing point of the soil, but not less than 500-600 mm from the surface.
  • On highly intumescent soils, as well as in permafrost conditions, it is better to use more reliable pile structures instead of a strip foundation.
  • To save on the construction of a prefabricated base, you can use intermittent laying of reinforced concrete elements, that is, a small gap is left between the blocks in each row, which is then filled with concrete. However, this technology cannot be used on silty and peaty soils, as well as on weakened soils.

When installing a strip foundation, do not forget about utilities (water supply and sewerage), which must enter the house through the foundation or below it (in the case of using a shallow foundation). You can often encounter a situation where the step-by-step instructions for installing a strip foundation misses the point of laying utility networks. This is usually not shown in many instructional videos.

The place where utility networks enter the house must be provided at the foundation construction stage. Usually, for this purpose, a sleeve made of asbestos-cement or plastic pipe is laid in the foundation. It must be located below the freezing point of the soil and is installed before pouring concrete at the stage of constructing the reinforcement frame.

Important: the choice of location for installing the sleeve depends on the location of existing centralized utility networks from which the connection to the house will be made. This point must be taken into account at the design stage of the future structure.

Material selection

Before answering the question of how to properly make a strip foundation, you need to decide on the material. Most often, strip-type foundations for the construction of a country house are made from the following materials:

  • Rubble concrete - this foundation is made of large stones (up to 30 cm in diameter) and cement-sand mortar. This type of foundation can be made on sandy or rocky soils, but not on clay soils. The width of the structure can reach 20-100 cm depending on the load. Rubble concrete is laid on a bed of sand or gravel with a height of at least 10 cm.
  • Reinforced concrete is a structure made from a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement in the required proportions. For reinforcement, reinforcement or steel mesh is used. This option is the most popular, so in our article we will look in detail at how to properly pour a strip foundation. The video at the end of the article is also dedicated to this process. The width of the structure is selected taking into account the width of the walls, for example, under a brick wall with a thickness of 510 mm, a foundation 600 mm wide is made with reinforcement with AIII reinforcement with a section of 1-1.2 cm. The advantage of using reinforced concrete is high strength, the ability to make curved walls in plan, as well as simplicity done by hand.
  • Factory reinforced concrete blocks and foundation slabs. Since the installation of a prefabricated foundation requires lifting construction equipment, this material is less often used in individual construction, so in our article we will pay more attention to how to pour a strip foundation rather than how to assemble it from blocks.
  • Brick can be used to make the basement of a building and shallow underground structures. However, the strength and durability of such bases is low, so they are practically not used.

Execution technology

Before properly pouring a strip foundation, it is necessary to prepare the land plot and lay out the layout of the future structure on the ground. To do this, the construction area is cleared of debris and unnecessary green spaces. Next, the axes of the future structure are laid out and linked to the boundaries of the site. After determining the location of one of the corners of the house, a cord is pulled at a right angle to it. From there, the next corners of the building are marked and pegs are driven in. A cord is pulled over the pegs. The width of the foundation is measured from it and the second cord is pulled.

Important: we calculate the depth of the trench from the lowest point of the foundation.

Our step-by-step instructions and video at the end of the article will tell you how to further build a shallow foundation:

  1. We dig a trench using a shovel or construction equipment. We level the bottom of the trench. At the bottom it is necessary to make a sand cushion 200 mm high. After laying the sand, it is filled with water and compacted.
  2. Then a layer of insulation is laid. To do this, you can use a dense film, a concrete layer 10 cm high, or roofing felt. It is not worth using geotextiles in this case, since it will only reduce the strength of the base.
  3. Now we proceed to the construction of the formwork. To do this, you can use boards, moisture-resistant plywood, OSB or special boards. It is better to cover the inner surface of wooden formwork with film. This will make it easier for you to remove the boards after the concrete has hardened, and they will also become less dirty and can be used in the future.

Tip: you can make permanent formwork from extruded polystyrene foam. This way you can insulate the foundation and reduce the cost of constructing formwork. However, the outer side of the expanded polystyrene slab must be well strengthened so that it can withstand the pressure of concrete.

  1. Now the reinforcement cage is being installed. For these purposes, we make a spatial frame from reinforcement with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm. The pitch of the transverse rods is 20 cm. We install the frame in the formwork so that after pouring concrete from the edge of the concrete surface to the reinforcement there is at least 50 mm of the foundation body. This will reliably protect the frame from corrosion.
  2. Don’t forget to install and tie pipes (sleeves) to the frame through which utilities will be brought into the house. It is also worth laying pipes to ventilate the space under the house. To prevent concrete from getting into them when pouring, sand is poured there.

  1. 6.After preparing or purchasing the concrete mixture, you can start pouring. As a rule, pouring is done in layers. Air bubbles are removed in each layer using a deep vibrator. This will make the structure stronger. When pouring concrete, you should not pour it from a height of more than 1.5 m, so as not to cause a decrease in the strength of the structure.
  2. 7.After pouring, the concrete strip is covered with plastic film to ensure uniform evaporation of moisture. In addition, in the summer it is necessary to wet the concrete for the first week to protect it from drying out. After a week, the film can be removed.
  3. 8.The formwork can be removed when the concrete gains initial strength. This usually happens after two weeks. Complete hardening occurs after 28 days.
  4. 9.The foundation walls are protected from moisture using bitumen mastic, which is applied in two layers.
  5. 10. The base is insulated. For this, it is best to use extruded polystyrene foam. It is attached to the outer surface until the ground freezes. Thermal insulation of the foundation in a house with a basement is especially important.
  6. 11. Now you can backfill the pit or trench. To do this, it is better to use a mixture of sand, clay and gravel, which is carefully compacted.
  7. 12. To protect the foundation from precipitation, a blind area is performed.

You can find another option for making a strip foundation in the proposed video:

At the initial stage of construction of the entire structure, the foundation is laid. The strength and durability of the entire house depends on the quality and correct execution of this structural part of the building. That is why, if you make the foundation with your own hands, you should know which design to prefer in this or that case, how to choose the right materials, and also make the foundation of a private house according to all the rules. In our article you will find instructions and video tutorials on how to build different types of foundations yourself.

General provisions

To build a private house, you can make one of the following types of foundations:

  • tape;
  • slab;
  • pile;
  • columnar.

It is difficult to say which one is the best, since the choice of one or another type of foundation must be made depending on the characteristics of the soil and the features of the structure. The cheapest foundation will not always be the best.

When deciding what foundation to make for a private house, you should be guided by general recommendations. It is also necessary to take into account the construction conditions, namely:

  1. Before building a house, you need to conduct geological surveys to know the type of soil, its composition and characteristics.
  2. Depth of groundwater. This data can also be obtained during hydrogeological studies.
  3. To build any houses and buildings, you need to know the depth of soil freezing.
  4. It is also necessary to know the total load from the structure in order to correctly calculate the base structure and select suitable materials.
  5. It is important what kind of house you make, with or without a basement or basement.
  6. You also need to consider the materials used to make the house, as well as the foundation material.
  7. Presence or absence of underground communications.

If you are making a foundation with your own hands, then you should know about common mistakes:

  • You should not lay a shallow foundation for light buildings on heaving soils. In this case, frost heaving forces will cause deformation of structures.
  • The foundation must rest on solid soil. It would be a mistake to base the house on uncompacted, loose soil.
  • Do not forget about the lateral pressure of the soil on the foundation walls, as well as the destructive effect of groundwater.
  • It is important to use all measures that allow water to be drained away from foundation structures.

Let's take a closer look at the features of the device and the design of each type of foundation, which you can make with your own hands for a private home.

Tape base

If you decide to build a house with a basement, then a strip foundation is exactly what you need. Such a foundation is used in the construction of houses from heavy wall materials (brick, concrete, reinforced concrete and natural stone) using wooden or reinforced concrete floors. For more information on how to build such a foundation yourself, see the video tutorial offered at the end of the article.

Important: the strip foundation is made under all external walls and load-bearing structures of the building.

This is not the cheapest foundation, but its use is advisable when constructing a basement, garage, basement or cellar under the house. The weight of the structure is transferred to the foundation strips. A concrete distribution pad is usually made under the tape. Its width is slightly larger than that of the tape itself. Thanks to this design, the load from the structure is evenly distributed onto the ground.

According to the manufacturing method, strip bases are of two types:

  • prefabricated structures are assembled from factory-prefabricated blocks installed in trenches or pits using a crane;
  • reinforced concrete monolithic structures are manufactured at the construction site. This option can be done without the use of construction equipment.

For a residential building, you can lay a strip foundation from the following materials:

  • reinforced concrete strips are made from concrete of a class not lower than B 15 - B 30, as well as from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
  • rubble concrete structures should be made of concrete and coarse filler (small boulders and coarse gravel);
  • Brick strip foundations can be built from solid clay bricks.

Pile foundations

It is better to make this foundation if construction will be carried out on soils with weak bearing capacity. We can say that this is a fairly cheap foundation, because the costs of materials and excavation work are minimal. That is why it is very popular.

The entire structure is made in the form of a strip of piles, free-standing elements or entire pile clusters united by a grillage or a monolithic slab. Typically, reinforced concrete or concrete is used to make a slab or beam.

Advice: such a foundation structure should be laid if there is weakened soil (loose sandy or subsidence) under the house at great depths.

According to the type of installation, all pile foundations can be divided into the following types:

  • driven (installation is carried out using special equipment);
  • screw (such a foundation can be made without the use of construction equipment);
  • driven (in this case, pipes are installed into the drilled well, into which concrete is poured).

For private houses, pile foundations can be made from the following materials:

  • metal, asbestos or plastic pipes (in this case they act as permanent formwork, and the supporting base is the reinforcement frame inside the pipe, filled with concrete);
  • processed softwood logs (such designs are suitable for light, small wooden houses);
  • reinforced concrete piles.

Monolithic slab foundation

This is a shallow foundation, which is made in the form of a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. The height of the structure can be in the range of 0.3-0.8 m. For reinforcement, a rod with a diameter of 12-20 mm is used. Concrete is poured over a sand cushion, which is placed on a compacted and leveled base of the pit.

Since the load on the foundation in this case is distributed most evenly, this type of foundation can be used:

  • on soils with reduced bearing capacity;
  • on soils that are subject to the forces of frost heaving;
  • for houses with a height of more than two floors and buildings with a complex structure.

Columnar bases

This foundation option can rightfully be called the most economical. It's quite easy to do it yourself. In essence, the foundation structure consists of pillars buried to a certain depth in the ground. From above, all elements are combined into one structure by means of laid beams.

Important: columnar foundations are suitable for light houses made of timber, logs or aerated concrete blocks with a height of no more than 1-2 floors. Frame and frame-panel houses on a columnar foundation can only be built on soil that is not subject to the forces of frost heaving.

Columnar bases can be prefabricated or monolithic. The following materials can be used:

  • stone;
  • clay brick;
  • logs;
  • concrete and reinforced concrete;
  • steel pipes.

Strip foundation installation technology

Many private developers associate the correct foundation with a strip foundation, since this is what is often used in individual construction. Therefore, we will consider the technology for manufacturing a monolithic strip foundation in more detail (it is also shown in our video tutorial at the end of the article).

To work you will need:

  • gravel and sand;
  • cement not lower than M 200;
  • fittings with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
  • level, plumb;
  • rope, pegs;
  • boards for formwork;
  • roofing felt;
  • nails, hammer and screws;
  • shovel;
  • concrete mixer, trough or bucket.

We carry out work on the installation of the strip base in the following sequence:

  1. We prepare the construction area: we remove garbage, cut off unnecessary green spaces, and level the site. The fertile layer of soil 20 cm thick must be carefully removed.
  2. We make a breakdown of the future structure on the ground. To do this we use a rope, pegs and a level. The sequence of marking is as follows:
  • first we find the axes of the future structure, measuring them from the edges of the site or neighboring buildings;
  • the distance to the outer edge is set off from the axes (this is how we find the first corner and hammer a peg there);
  • then we pull a rope or fishing line from the peg and find the remaining corners of the structure, drive in the pegs;
  • then a distance equal to the width of the foundation tape is retreated from the markings along the outer edge of the foundation, the pegs are hammered in again, and the cord is pulled.

You can find information on how to properly make a strip foundation in the proposed video tutorial: